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[Wickedvox]

Muah. Ha. Ha. I've been perusing the boards and everyone is pumping out some amazing and gorgeous pieces...as usual 

I have questions...questions that need answering!

I've finished my first set of sleeves (yeeeaa!), but I've been following Margo's instructions and she says to sew TEN points! Ten?! Isn't that a bit of overkill? Then I turned to the Tudor Tailor and the only example of a separate sleeve only uses ONE time at the top middle. Yeesh, can a girl get a happy medium?? How many do you all use? I was thinking maybe three or four, all on the top and none underneath.

Also, Have you ever made leggings like the ones in Tudor Tailor? Michael has agreed to them (yeaaa!) and now I have to commit to making them (booo!). In the book it looks like they're made of wool, but we've ruled that out as impractical due to Michigan weather and Michigan mud. Felt is just cruel to do to the poor man. Suggestions?

And when you cut guards to put on the bottom of skirts, do you cut them on the bias? I assume it would make it easier to follow the curve of the hem, but just want to double check with my fellow garbers.

And lastly--any tips to make fitting yourself for a bodice easier? I'm making the edge-to-edge front closing pattern in TT.

[Rowan MacD]

 On the MA paned sleeves I use 5 'points'  per sleeve. One top center (approximately in line with the shoulder seam on the bodice) and then two on each side of that one about 3" apart.  I have the panes sewn together in to a 'whole' sleeve,  so placing a tie in the armpit didn't make sense to me.   You do have to have the underside tie if the sleeves are open.
    I know ties (points) are more period, but I found it easier to use buttons on the sleeves,  then sew a strip of grommet tape onto the inside edge of the armhole of the bodice or doublet (about 2" inside the top edge).   You can either use stretchy heavy duty hair ties half hitched through the grommet and then looped a around the button, or you could use a length of cord, push a loop through the grommet then around a button, though I've never tried that last.   There are no hanging points with those techniques, and some like the look.

  Guards give me fits. I'm sure there is an easier way than I do it....


Leggings are beyond me.

[gem]

I have sleeves that hook with 3 attachments, and sleeves that hook with one. The single attachments stay together better, actually, but I think that's more due to the mechanism of the ties (picot ribbon on the sleeve that ties through a metal ring sewn to the underside of the strap, vs the elastic loop + button method Rowan mentions--that just kept slipping off for me), than to the number. I would look to portraiture and decide based on the style of the gown I was making.

I actually just bought some wool-poly blend gabardine specifically FOR wear in mud, thanks to Kate's recommendation of that + Eucalan wash to help retain the wool's waterproof properties. YMMV.

My #1 tip for fitting a bodice on yourself? Wear a bra. Maybe not what you were looking for, but it will help exponentially. Once you get the fit in the right ballpark, you can finesse with proper underpinnings, but I think starting with the path of least resistance is easier.

[CenturiesSewing]

Yay you are back!

Lets see, sleeves I've used one eyelet to sleeve to tie it on, I've also used 3, one at the top of the shoulder, one at the front and one at the back.
I've also used straight pins, but I haven't tried that as a long term thing, usually just for photoshoots.

I haven't made the Tudor hose but I would not use felt for them. If you don't want to use a light weight wool a medium weight linen may make a good stand in as long as the bias stretch isn't too stretchy.

I cut my guards on the straight from scraps, unless I have a very shaped hem, like the Pisa Gown or EdeT's Gown.

Bodice fitting, lots of photos of it on you from the front, side and back to help figure out fit issues and lacing strips to help keep the thing on before you put the eyelets in.

[DonaCatalina]

I use five points.
10, noon, 2, 4 and 7

[Rowan MacD]

I have sleeves that hook with 3 attachments, and sleeves that hook with one. The single attachments stay together better, actually, but I think that's more due to the mechanism of the ties (picot ribbon on the sleeve that ties through a metal ring sewn to the underside of the strap, vs the elastic loop + button method Rowan mentions--that just kept slipping off for me), than to the number.

I should have mentioned that I loop the elastic tie around the button once or twice.  They will slide right off if you don't. 
   A lot of folks don't like the s..t..r..e..c..h of the ties, but I minimized it by using really heavy ones...They still stretch about an inch, but at least they give when you move your arms.
   I had problems with the lace points/rings tearing off, especially when I wore them under a cloak.
  Although I have tried the sleeves on and run them through the range of motion I expect them to deal with,  I have not tested the elastics at faire yet.   I will let you know how they stand up to 8 hours of moving around.

[isabelladangelo]

I use loops of cord around buttons, ties, or just pin the sleeves.  All are perfectly period.   For ties, I'll typically use three on each sleeve - one on top and one on either side of the top tie.   

As for making your own bodice - I'm going to be making a new "double" this weekend, hopefully.  :-)  It helps a lot.

[Wickedvox]

I love you guys so much. Seriously. Especially *you*...yeah you know who I'm talkin' bout. 

All very sensible numbers. I concur.

Centuries--I was wondering if linen might be an option. And scraps you say? I like it! I know bias would be nice and stretchy, but soooo very expensive. No problem with the curve, eh? I may just do that then.

Gem--I was thinking there had to be a solution because I just don't like the idea of using anything else. I'm Taurus-y like that. Any chance you've got that thread link laying around? Check under the dog, I'm sure it's there

Isabella--I made a double out of paper tape and it's great--but no squish! I needs my squish factor. Which brings me to a side note--my newest dress form...sigh...it's always something. The hips and waist I can get to my measurement, but the bust won't go down any further (39 smallest measurement and I need a 36), any suggestions? I want to get that body form system with the squishable pieces. I like saying squish. Squish. Sorry, muscle relaxers (hurt my back...again).

Rowen--I like that idea too. Is the grommet tape necessary to withstand the force exerted by the pulling? Or could I hand sew lacing rings? The bodice is from last year and it would actually be easier I think to hand sew rings on the underside than take it apart, sew the strip on, then sew it back up. I agree with the range of motion bit. And since it's looking more and more like I will be on cast this year (holy shine batman, I'm gonna be a cast member?! Look out!), that would be very practical. And since it's an Isabella approved option, I can do it with a clean h/a conscience!

Okay...I think that's it.
Maybe.
Muah.ha.ha.

[isabelladangelo]

For my double and my Mom's  -  I take a t-shirt that is long and fitted.  Whoever the victim is, wears the t-shirt and gets the t-shirt covered in duct tape while they are wearing the t-shirt.   There are a TON of tutorials on this part so I won't bore everyone to death.

Once you -carefully- cut the duct taped t-shirt off the victim, you retape up the cut and tape up the neck as well.  Use as much stuffing (pillow stuffing) and newspaper as you need.  Get a pole of some sort - I like old fabric rolls- to put into the duct tape semi stuffed t-shirt.   Once you are close to getting the t-shirt stuffed, start closing up the bottom gap with duct tape.  Keep stuffing the t-shirt until you can't any more.  Because you are using pillow stuffing and newspaper (the newspaper works great near the center poll) the double will be very squishy.   However, if you stuff it until you can't stuff it anymore, it should have some rigidity too. 

[gem]

Is this what you wanted me to hunt down? Can you wash wool gabardine?

What kind of dress form do you have? Not that you're interested in starting from scratch again, but mine is a tiny shop display form (about a RTW size 2) padded out with the Fabulous Fit Fitting System. (That display form link is nice b/c it gives the form's measurements. I found mine locally.) The combination worked great for me because I have a small frame but am curvy, so I was able to get something that comes close(r) to my crazy-small shoulder width and upper bust, and pad out the rest to match all the other curvy bits. I'd thought about all the other DIY methods (and actually bought supplies for them!) but never got around to them--but when I found this method, I had a custom-sized form in about 45 minutes. And it's squishable and pinnable. And I didn't have to figure out how to build a base or hang it or anything. Win!

[Rowan MacD]

Rowen--I like that idea too. Is the grommet tape necessary to withstand the force exerted by the pulling? Or could I hand sew lacing rings? The bodice is from last year and it would actually be easier I think to hand sew rings on the underside than take it apart, sew the strip on, then sew it back up. I agree with the range of motion bit. And since it's looking more and more like I will be on cast this year (holy shine batman, I'm gonna be a cast member?! Look out!), that would be very practical. And since it's an Isabella approved option, I can do it with a clean h/a conscience!

Yeah, you can use rings,  I have used them before. 
I had some grommet tape lying around and just hacked off what I needed, then whip-stitched it securely to the lining.  I didn't have to build it in and it's removable if I change my mind and go back to rings.
    The only thing I didn't like about rings, is that the 'pull' of the sleeves either pulled them off,  pulled down the bodice edge, or made a dimple in the shoulder of the bodice over where they are attached.   My sleeves are lined in cotton and they don't slide over the linen chemise well when I move, so that may be part of the problem, but I needed something that can take a little stress. 
  I am going to try the cord loop method that Isabella mentioned  in place of the stretchy ties, to see if that works.  Hubby thinks I can use the same trick that I use for the ties to keep the buttons in the loops.....
 

[isabelladangelo]

For the cord loop method, make sure you put the loops on the sleeves and have the buttons on the shoulder - this way, as you are moving around, the loops are pulling on the buttons and are less likely to come unhooked - unless you constantly have your arms over your head.  ;-)

For my loops, I just use ribbon or regular old lucet cording.  Either way works. 

[Wickedvox]

Thanks Gem, you're a--well, *gem!* That's the one. Also, yes, that's the padding system I want, but it's not going to help decrease the bust size. I also have a vintage 50's dress form that's much tinier that would maybe work better for padding out. Come on nursing job!

Isabella--I think that's where I went wrong was choosing a stuffing. I used expanding foam that hardened. I used the same method as you though, only with paper tape instead (which I like better than duct tape because you don't get that compacting over time like some get, and when you pin into it, it gets little to no glue on the pins). And I will put the buttons on the bodice then, because that's just smart, thanks! Do you have a picture of a sleeve and bodice done in this way? I'm having trouble visualizing how the loops are attached. Just sew them on, or add grommets then half-hitch the loops through them?

[isabelladangelo]

This dress wasn't H/A - I made it for a costume party- but it shows the ribbon loops and buttons:


birthday 010 by jubileel_insaneone, on Flickr

The loops are just ribbon that I attached to the right side of the fabric before sewing on the lining.  You just want a slight loop as the loops will stretch a bit once you get the sleeves on and you are tugging at the shoulder.

[Wickedvox]

Thanks Isabella that's what I was picturing. You're a gem too