Hemd / Smock / Shift / Chemise neckline treatment

[Irma]

This is an image of a portrait of Mary of Hungary dated 1519 (at least, that's what the internet says).  What technique would reproduce the look of the neckline on the hemd?

[isabelladangelo]

Gather the edges of the neckline and sleeves, bind with self bias tape.   It's very similar to the Italian style camica. It looks to be nothing more than a width of fabric for the front and back with sleeves attached so that they make up the shoulders as well.   

[Irma]

Thanks.  That was my first impression, also.  Cut the neckline square, and allow a 1 to 3 ration for the gathering?

[isabelladangelo]

Not exactly.  If you look at this lady's camica, her's has a square-ish neckline:



Use http://www.feoragdubh.eastkingdom.org/Patterns/ItalianRenChemise.gif for a pattern.   Except, rather than rounding the neckline, leave it as the selvage of the fabric.  Gather the sleeves and the body pieces separately to get a more square than round neckline. 

[Irma]

That's very helpful.  Thank you so much.

[gem]

Gather the sleeves and the body pieces separately to get a more square than round neckline.

That is *extremely* helpful, Isabella. And her corset fits her just beautifully!

[isabelladangelo]

Gem, you should check out her blog at http://www.elegantmusings.com/  It's mostly vintage now but it's still awesome.  Her old site is at http://acrosstheages.tripod.com/rengown2.html? where the image is from.  However, the site is full of pop ups so beware.