Why does my bodice creep up?

[Irma]

When I wear my gown, it creeps up.  I find myself pulling it down a lot.  Does this mean the length is too long, too short; or is it too tight, or too lose?

[isabelladangelo]

Pictures of the gown in question?

[Irma]

This one.
https://sphotos-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/481310_447348721950344_1990997450_n.jpg

[gem]

Gorgeous gown!! It looks like it fits you well. I do see some gaping in the front armscye/strap area, but that's kind of endemic to this style of gown (the widely-placed straps and lower back necklines), and I don't think it would contribute to the bodice creeping. I wonder if part of the problem is that it's not playing nicely with your other layers, and it's either slipping or gripping on whatever you're wearing underneath it.

[isabelladangelo]

The first thing I noticed is the same thing Gem noticed - the gapping at the sleeves.  I've recently figured out what the heck causes that and that it is the cause of "gown riding up".     It's your sleeves.   Sleeves are horrible, evil things.  They have been given the name sleevils for a reason.  If you are off in their placement by even an inch, you get the gapping and the dress riding up.   It's because as you are moving, your arms are pulling at the armscye that forces the strap and sides of the bodice to move...and move up!   Try untacking the sleeves and wearing the dress while walking around.  I bet the issue disappears completely.   When you are ready to sew them back on, put the dress on, put the sleeves on, and move the sleeves until you can move your arms fairly freely without pulling at the dress too much. You will need to pin and repin the sleeves to get it right but it's easier that sewing and resewing.   

[Irma]

Oh!  I love this gown.  I myself did not make the gown, but designed it based on portraits of German gowns.  The sleeve placement also explains why I can't raise my arms.  I considered releasing the sleeves where they meet the gown under my arm, leaving the tops of the sleeves attached, and clean finishing the seams.  I am a bit afraid to take them apart.

[isabelladangelo]

Don't be scared!   Actually, did the person that did make it have any scraps left over and send them along with the gown?   Most of the Cranach gowns with multiple slashed sleeves have the top part of the arm slashed (where it meets the bodice).  This allowed free movement of the arms.   You can see it in these portraits:
http://onedelightfulday.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/cranach_judith_victorious.jpg]
[url]http://onedelightfulday.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/cranach_judith_victorious.jpg[/url]

http://tistfa.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/varient21.jpg

http://tistfa.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/green13.jpg

http://www.insaneaboutgarb.com/friesianfrockgirl/images/Saxony_files/cranachYoungerLady.jpg

If you could add slashing to the top of the arm, where it meets the bodice strap, it would also help with the issue. 

[gem]

The first thing I noticed is the same thing Gem noticed - the gapping at the sleeves.  I've recently figured out what the heck causes that and that it is the cause of "gown riding up".   ...   It's because as you are moving, your arms are pulling at the armscye that forces the strap and sides of the bodice to move...and move up!   Try untacking the sleeves and wearing the dress while walking around.  I bet the issue disappears completely.   When you are ready to sew them back on, put the dress on, put the sleeves on, and move the sleeves until you can move your arms fairly freely without pulling at the dress too much. You will need to pin and repin the sleeves to get it right but it's easier that sewing and resewing.

Oooh, sneaky!  And excellent advice!! Now I recall that the fitting gurus on Pattern Review also say that an armscye cut high and close to the underarm gives much greater freedom of movement than one that is low and open. It sounds counterintuitive, but it's also the reason period smocks are so close-fitting and use underarm gussets.

I considered releasing the sleeves where they meet the gown under my arm, leaving the tops of the sleeves attached, and clean finishing the seams.  I am a bit afraid to take them apart.

I don't know if it helps any, but I have a photo I snipped from somewhere showing just that, which might be helpful (sorry for the lack of a source citation; the notes are mine re: my own project):



I don't know that you need to release *so* much (ie, have so much of your chemise visible); most of the images I've seen that show only partially set-in sleeves with gaps under the arms show close-fitting sleeves with small gaps that wouldn't be visible with the arm down. More like this, from our own Centuries Sewing.

I would be nervous about taking it apart, as well! (But you shouldn't be!!) I'd fret about whether there was enough seam allowance left to clean-finish the edges--but if there's not, an easy solution would be to use a bias facing folded to the inside and tacked down (like a hem facing). You wouldn't even need matching fabric, and it can work with teeny tiny seam allowances.

Good luck!!

[Irma]

Thank you, both, so much.  I do have extra fabric.  Thanks for the images of the semi-detached sleeves.  The sleeves on my gown were quite a feat of engineering, so I am more comfortable not tampering with them too much.  Some sort of bias to encase the edges had crossed my mind.  I also have to mend the hem of the gown where the crease has freyed.  Hopefully, I can deal with both issues at the same time.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

gem and Isabella have good eyes!

Often times, when sleeves are attached to a garment and one raises their arms, the bodice will rise up. Making sure there is plenty of room in the armshythe  and detachable sleeves work better.

Hope the problem can be fixed, Irma.

That German gown is lovely by the way. Great colors.