Interfacing in Gown bodices

[Crimson]

I have a simple question.  What do you prefer for interfacing in the bodice of a gown; fusible or something else?

[stonebiscuit]

Honestly, neither. That much interfacing makes me hot and uncomfortable. A few strips of strategically placed boning will do the same job without wrapping my torso in a layer of synthetic materials.

[isabelladangelo]

I use duck cloth or another heavy cotton material.   That way, I don't have to use nearly as boning in the bodice - normally just where it laces and maybe at the sides.   

The fuseable stuff is HORRIBLE.   Don't bother with it.  The second you wash your dress,, it will become useless.   The duck cloth - or canvas- will hold up through the wash and still be nice and reasonably stiff when your dress is dry again. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

It very much depends on the style and era, and how solid it needs to be.  I use cotton canvas, wool canvas, linen, and good fusible tailoring or woven cotton interfacings, depending on the fabric, the purpose, and the results I want.  I even have some fusible knit interfacing that is excellent for some jobs.

I rarely use non-woven interfacings these days, especially not the fusible stuff you get in high street shops.

A good fusible interfacing, applied correctly, can stay in place for 40 years.  I have evidence of it lasting since 1971!  Light weight fusible woven cotton canvas, put inside my dad's uniform by Gieves & Hawkes...

[LadyStitch]

I got my hands on the good professional grade tailoring fusible interfacing.  It was the same price as the cheap stuff at the haberdashery, but this I had to order online with free shipping.  And like Kate said, it depends on the garment.  I have some amazing items that warranted the horse hair canvas, and others that something light but sturdy worked fine.  On my bodices that are going to require lining, I use a duck cloth or twill/drill. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

My preference is for Cotton Canvas Duck cloth for Bodices. 2 layers, plus some boning where needed to keep the bodice from looking wrinkly, lining, fashion fabric(light underlining if needed), does the trick.

Despite the layers, it all breathes! My corset has 4 layers altogether. Thus will last through years of wear and washings.

STAY away from using Pellon iron on interfacing! IT IS HORRIBLE!

[Rowan MacD]

  I agree with the fusible interfacing advice. Pellon is the most common brand. 
  I do use it; but only on small things like book covers and fabric pouches and the occasional small collar or bodice tabs....things that will probably never get washed, and that have a small area. 
  On bigger projects, the stuff tends to come unglued when it gets wet (or sweaty)
  As everyone has been saying; depending on the 'body' of the outer fabric, you should cut at least one layer of substantial drill or duck cloth using the bodice pattern, and treat the piece as a unit when sewing it all to the lining.  It sounds like a pain, but it really isn't.
  I'm pretty sure Margo Anderson calls these extra layers 'interlining'.  Most of her gown bodice patterns require at least one between the fashion fabric and the lining fabric.  They are also used to hold boning channels where you want to have boning without having to sew then directly onto the lining or fashion fabric,  where the seams will show. Very handy for reversible projects.
 
   

[Crimson]

Thank you for your input.  I do not like to use the fusible interfacing.  For a bodice that I made recently I used two layers of black twill with the boning stitched in, outside layer brocade and lining another layer of the black twill.  I finished it all nicely by hand and now it can be reversible as well.  I was just wondering about the bodice of a gown as I'm in the design stage (this stage may take a few months) of conceptualizing my first gown. 

I haven't used the creative part of my brain in a long time and am finding that I LOVE researching and coming up with my own ideas!  I'll post a pic of my newest pirate garb after this weekend.  I wore it out Saturday night and loved the fact that every piece I was wearing I made myself!!

Now on to a gown...

[DonaCatalina]

I use cotton canvas. Its usually olive drab; but if you can't see it who cares?
Its washable and breathes.

[gem]

Hee! I bought A WHOLE BOLT of that lovely olive drab/khaki canvas that they carry at Hobby Lobby. It seems to be the perfect color for *everything.* Not too dark, not too light; won't run and stain your other outer fabric, and vice versa. There are other colors, but for whatever reason, that stuff is my favorite. I've lost count of the number of bodices I've used it in (standalone and for gowns).

[isabelladangelo]

One thing, I'd suggest lining in something light like muslin or a linen.  This will be smoother against your chemise.  It's a *slight* difference - but somethign rough against your chemise versus something smooth will be nice for movement. 

[operafantomet]

If I make hardcore historical garments (Italian style), I use wool felt, both in the bodice and at the hem. It's how they padded/stiffened it back then, sometimes with additional linen cardboard. Corsets/stays was not used under these bodices!

If I make "normal" garments I use cotton duck, sometimes with additional rigilene.

[DonaCatalina]

One thing, I'd suggest lining in something light like muslin or a linen.  This will be smoother against your chemise.  It's a *slight* difference - but somethign rough against your chemise versus something smooth will be nice for movement.

oh yes, I love to use muslin for the inner lining. The cotton is much more comfortable in summer especially. I realized yesterday that I have been cutting off the same bolt of 90 inch wide muslin for the last 10 years.

[Hoowil]

I had a very similar question about interfacing. I got MA's Elizabethan Gentleman set and free reign to go fabric shopping for it for Christmas (I love my wife!). I'm planning on starting on a doublet in the next few days, but I'd rather not deal with interfacing. In mine own garb, and with that for the kiddos I've not bothered with adding it, and aside from some shoulder bunchin in a rushed jerking I made a decade ago I've not realy had any issues with bunching or draping weird. But this is going to be a more expensive peice to put together, and is a move from peasant towards middles, so I wanted to see other folks' thoughts before I do this. If its a suiting weight wool, with an interling and a lining, do I really need it? I've got three different weights of muslin and two different linens in stash that I can use as a lining, an a few odd bottomweight bits I could use for the interlining. I've also got loads of duct ties and a few rolls of featherweight boning (which will most likely never get used, unless I decide to make my daughter a farthingale)

[isabelladangelo]

I had a very similar question about interfacing. I got MA's Elizabethan Gentleman set and free reign to go fabric shopping for it for Christmas (I love my wife!). I'm planning on starting on a doublet in the next few days, but I'd rather not deal with interfacing. In mine own garb, and with that for the kiddos I've not bothered with adding it, and aside from some shoulder bunchin in a rushed jerking I made a decade ago I've not realy had any issues with bunching or draping weird. But this is going to be a more expensive peice to put together, and is a move from peasant towards middles, so I wanted to see other folks' thoughts before I do this. If its a suiting weight wool, with an interling and a lining, do I really need it? I've got three different weights of muslin and two different linens in stash that I can use as a lining, an a few odd bottomweight bits I could use for the interlining. I've also got loads of duct ties and a few rolls of featherweight boning (which will most likely never get used, unless I decide to make my daughter a farthingale)

No, don't bother with the interfacing as long as you have some sort of weighted interlining (the bottom-weights will probably be okay; any type of twill is good).   However, the featherweight boning won't work for a farthingale.  The slightest bit of weight from the skirts and those hoops will crash down like the Titanic into an iceburg.  Even for a kid, you'll need steel hoop boning or heavy rope that is very tightly sewn into rows to give the "round" affect.