Tips for Hat Construction...

[Rowan MacD]

  I'm about 1/2 way through my second Lynn McMasters tall hat (it's going very well) and I find myself approaching the part I really do not like about this....finishing the brim. 
NO matter how carefully I try to bind it, it comes out looking messy.
   I prefer a smooth edge, and bias trim is not my favorite material since it never goes on smoothly for me...regular trim results in wrinkles, creases etc. the usual problems with trying to place a flat, none stretchy trim on a curved, rounded surface.
   How do you get that smooth, look? what is the best stuff for trimming the edges?
   Help please!  I really want this hat to look good...It's for hubby.

[gem]

Have you tried pressing the curve into the bias tape before binding? Just lay the bias strips on your ironing board and shape them into the same curve they'll be taking around the hat brim. Press them into shape with your iron. They will go on so much more smoothly!

Here's a blog post by Sempstress about the technique (which is also, she demonstrates, excellent for corset tabs!). I learned about this from Pattern Review, where they recommend it for neckline and armhole binding on mundane clothing.

Also, some fabrics make happier binding than others. (The poly-blend stuff in the packages is just atrocious; but I assume you're not using that anyway!) Typically, natural fibers tend to behave best, but I've had really good luck with microsuede, which seems to just accept the curves and stretching really willingly. I also like how it looks as a contrast texture to a lot of other fabrics--I've used it on linen, upholstery fabric, you name it.

[Rowan MacD]

 Thanks Gem.
Yeah, the packaged binding defies words; and it never comes in the correct colors anyway.
  The materiel I'm using for the hat frays like crazy when cut into narrow lengths, thus making it curse worthy as bias.   When I was using it to make my gown and hubby's doublet, everything had to be stay stitched. 
  I'm leaning toward trim but I seriously don't want 1" wide trim, which is what LM recommends.  It just seems too bulky.  I just want something narrow and understated to invisibility.  I can just see me staring at a finished hat...all except the brim.
   I will give the ironed bias a try using fabric scraps, If all else fails, LM does admit to using stitch witchery on occasion.
     Thanks to my past military career, I still have a good supply of it.


How does gimp type trim work out? Is it easy to use?

 

 

[gem]

Are you still talking about binding the edge of the brim? Not picturing how you'd cover an edge with gimp...?  Another option would be twill tape, which has a diagonal weave that makes it accept curves. Wm. Booth carries it in linen and wool; and you can find cotton pretty much anywhere.

...Although I have to say that I, too, am very fond of a judicious application of fusible tape.   I have quite the collection.

How are you making your bias tape? You can experiment with the width of your strips and how much you fold over, to kind of control the fraying issues. But if it's fraying that much on the bias (b/c typically bias cuts don't fray), it's probably just not worth it.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I prefer to use the fashion fabric for the outer binding that I cut on the Bias. AS gem states, it makes for a smoother and cleaner outer edge.

For the Inside part of the brim, I use the Quilt binding. It is wide enough to cover then stitching, turn under to sew onto the bottom side. I always use a single fold wide Bias tape to cover the Millinery wire I use for the outer brim edge, the Crown pieces. That way, I can sew the Tall crown part and crown top to make my main piece before covering. Lynn's instructions are easy enough to follow. Once you have the steps down, ANY hat can be made.

I order my Millinery products from..https://www.judithm.com/ The heaviest theatrical weight Buckram and 19 gauge Millinery wire.

Here are some hat photos if this will help.


Here you can see the inside part of the brim where I used the wide Quilt binding.


Using the Fashion Fabric for the outer Brim binding.

[Rowan MacD]

  Actually, if I cut the fabric on the bias, it doesn't fray as badly, and I suppose I can always stay stitch....though I don't know how that will affect the stretch of the finished strip..we'll see.  Self bias looks better than most other options.

  Gem- I was surprised when I saw the note in the pattern instructions where  McMasters said to bind the brim edge with bias, self bias OR trim.
  Whatever the choice, it must be at least 1" wide.
   The last (and first) hat I did from this pattern was my little green velvet knife pleated one.
   I sewed a fine seam around the edge of the brim cover and slipped it over the finished buckram and wire form; and the only way I was able to do this was because the velvet I used was stretch.  I stuck the cover fabric to the brim form surface with fusible tape.

  I like the way Lady K's hat brim looks, so I will be going with self bias, though I wish there was some way to get a smaller border....

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I forgot to mention that I cut my Bias strips 2 1/2' wide. I sew 5/8" inch allowance from the wired Brim edge as to not hit the wire. That makes for a  smoother, more consistent look.

Sometimes I will stitch the bias down on the machine. But more times than not, I use a curved millinery needle and hand sew the underside with the invisible slip stitch.

[Rowan MacD]

 Thanks!
  All the sewing on this hat is by hand, so I'll have to be extra neat on the brim. 
  I assume you sew the top of the brim first, then wrap the bias underneath to finish?


The fitted fabric crown is done, and it turned out wonderfully. I'm sold on the plastic mesh.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

e
Rowan...

Before I hand sew the brim on to the crown, I bind the edge first and ready it to be finished. I then sew on the quilt binding by machine to the inside part of the Brim using my stitch guide of 3/4" to cover the buckram and fashion fabric. I also make more slashes so that the band will bend with the shape of the head, depending on how it is worn. I make marks with a Tailor's chalk to denote sides, Front Center, Back Center before I line up the Tall part of the crown to the brim. If that makes sense.

The tall part of the crown and inside lining are done separately before I attach that to the brim. I also use a double strength of Heavy/Outdoor thread twice about for a secure hold, using the invisible slip stitch.

Lynn McMaster's instructions illustrate beautifully the steps. That is what I learned to follow and getting the same results every time.

I also use Duct tape to hold the Center back seam together and stitch it down at the top and bottom. I turn my machine outward so that the arm faces me. That is how I sew the bottom of the crown to the fashion fabric.

Keep playing with the instructions. Hat making will become easier with time.

[gem]

Before I hand sew the brim on to the crown, I bind the edge first and ready it to be finished.

Ok, that is just brilliant, and the sort of thing that would never, in a million years, have occurred to me!

[Rowan MacD]

 Currently I have:
The covered crown piece, sans lining, and the finished brim, except the bias edging and the messing around with the inner oval i.e. clipping,trimming, etc.

  I figure the inner edge of the brim (the part that is usually pinked and sewn up inside the hat) will end up heavily cut down; the plastic mesh does not bend all that well,  but as long as I pad the inside edge of the brim,  it shouldn't cause discomfort.  I can add the padding to the lower edge of the crown lining as part of the sweat band, if you get what I mean.

So far I have followed LM's instructions exactly, but it makes perfect sense to line the crown before attaching it.   it would be soooo much easier.

All sewing for this project has to be by hand; due to the plastic mesh form, but the form is so sturdy it's worth it.   
 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Before I hand sew the brim on to the crown, I bind the edge first and ready it to be finished.

Ok, that is just brilliant, and the sort of thing that would never, in a million years, have occurred to me!

That happens to me too, gem!

[Rowan MacD]

   Figured I'd give you ladies an update-pictures once the project is finished!

  I cut out the brim bias last night and had time to sew it to the top of the brim-pulled it over the edge and pinned it in place-It looks wonderful!
   I started with a 2 1/2" wide strip as per Lady K's suggestion, and ironed in the seam allowances I wanted.  As it turned out, the extra width helped with the fraying, so no stay stitching needed. 
  The finished trim border is about 3/8" inch wide on the top edge of the brim; just enough to cover the outer edge seam right behind the wire.
   The whole hat looks very neat.

  Now, tonight I will be sewing down the underside of the bias to the brim... 

Gem-you mentioned an 'invisible stitch'?  How is that done?

  Thanks for the help!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

How best to describe doing the "invisible slip stitch".

Look at the inside of the Chemise I did for you at the collar and cuffs. How I do the invisible slip stitch is..

1) I first anchor the knotted thread inside the fashion fabric  as to not see it.

2) I then make a stitch at the top of the  folded material, then a stitch above, going from right to left. Your pattern is sort of a zig zag.

3) When you gently  pull on the thread, the stitches disappear. Doctors use this stitch when sewing up after surgery to limit the amount of scarring.

4) When I come to the end, I do a few loops to secure the thread down and snip off the excess.

This should help.

[gem]

Rowan, congratulations on conquering bias binding!! Now you'll be doing it EVERYWHERE. I had my aha moment last spring, and now it's one of my favorite sewing techniques! (For me two of the secrets were discovering that for binding shorter things, you can simply cut strips the length you need--no need to sew them together--and that to more easily sew the strips together, lop off the angled ends and lay them at right angles.) If you plan to make a lot of bias binding, you may want to get yourself a tool. Either pick up the Clover brand (Clover only! The other brands are very inferior.) bias tape makers, or make yourself a jig (a long corsage pin inserted into heavy canvas at exactly the finished strip width you need. Pull the strips through, and the straight pin will fold the edges as you pull and iron).

I don't remember mentioning an invisible stitch in this thread, but I do a ton of handsewing, so I may well have said it elsewhere!

The two I use most are the basic slipstitch: http://www.sew-it-love-it.com/slip-stitch.html Which is good for hemming and binding. Here's the slipstitched binding on my bodice. The places where the stitches look visible are actually needle strikes in the nap of the microsuede, before I fluffed it up again.



...And the ladder stitch, which is great for inserting linings into bodices, where you want a clean finish inside and out, and it's indispensable for things like closing up pillows. (This sounds like what Lady K was describing.) Ladder stitch tutorial. (I have a link to a really good tutorial on Youtube, but it keeps inserting as the actual video into this post! PM me if you want the link.)

Here's the lining on my purple kirtle, inserted by ladder stitch:



...'Cause what's more exciting than photos of something invisible?  LOL

In contrast, here's a basic whipstitched binding on a chemise neckline, which is not invisible: