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Offline gem

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Tall hat pattern hunt!
« on: March 31, 2014, 10:39:23 AM »
I'm kind of doing a round-up!

I want to make a tall hat, but I haven't found a pattern with quite the shape I'm looking for. First, this is what I DON'T want:


Entirely aside from the fact that that particular model is too small for me, I don't care for the small flat brim and straight-up-and-down crown (on me; it looked smashing on Milord!).

I'm looking for something a little jauntier, with more of an angle to the crown, and an arched brim, more like these:







Any pattern recommendations? I know Lynn McMasters has a pattern for the first variety, but the images on her website are so teeny-tiny, it's hard to tell whether one of the other patterns will work. Her Elizabethan arch-brimmed hat seems to have a lower crown than I'd like (wow, picky much?  ::)).

I also have all of Janet Arnold's books, which I have not yet combed through. Tudor Tailor has the straight/V.1 hat.

Any others?

Gramercy!!



Offline LadyStitch

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2014, 10:59:22 AM »
I know the book you need but I don't know where you would get it.  It was called  "Millinery of the medieval ages, and Renaissance".  It was from the 1920-30's.  It was falling to pieces so bad, that my instructor made a photo copy of it and then sealed it up for it's own protection.  It showed how to do all of it, but that would be the book you would need.  Sadly, because of copyright laws, she could only keep her 'archival' copy, and nothing else. 
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Offline Lady Rosalind

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2014, 11:23:47 AM »
I have the arched riding hat pattern from LM that you mentioned, but I haven't used it yet. You could probably experiment a bit with craft paper, to get the angled sides and specific height that you want. I will be doing it again for the red tall hat I need to make for this season. The last tall hat I made is just a bit too tall for me (I keep knocking into it with my parasol).


Offline Rowan MacD

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #3 on: March 31, 2014, 02:35:00 PM »
  I was going to mention the arched brim LM pattern too... that one is next on my list.

Here are the two 'standard'  tall hats I just finished (save for trim) The crowns are very tall, but the trim helps visually shorten them.   These are the 2nd and 3rd hats from the LM tall hat pattern.


If you can see my avatar clearly-those black velvet hats are from tall toad....and they are not actually tall hats, even though they are advertised as such.  The crowns are too low and the brims too wide.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2014, 02:46:01 PM by Rowen MacD »
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Offline gem

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2014, 03:26:12 PM »
Ohmigosh, Rowen, are these the first pictures of the new hats?! They look incredible!! You absolutely rocked that binding. When you say "second and third hats from the pattern," do you mean you've made three hats using this pattern, or there are three variations included in the pattern?

I know there's debate about what's a "proper" tall hat/whether the brim should be arched or not arched, etc... Whatever we've decided to call it, I'm looking to make the hat worn by the English townswoman on the far right in this sketch (I don't know why I didn't post that the first time!):



The brim is wider than the LM tall hat, it's arched, and the crown angles backward.

There's also the Margo Anderson version (which I have), but I'm confused by it. The pattern envelope artwork shows the straight&narrow version, but the technical drawing looks closer to what I'm looking for... and I can't seem to find any photos of her pattern made up to see for sure! (Here is where I should probably pull it out and make a quick mockup with poster board, right?)

...And I see now that Lynn McMasters has something very similar to what I have in mind (maybe? It's so hard to tell with the photos on her site), but it's Georgian, so just a few... hundred years out of date. Do I mind?

Offline Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2014, 05:17:35 AM »


gem, I use the Lynn McMasters Arched Tall Hat pattern a lot. That is what I used for one of my hats that I wear with my M,QoS gown. My recent hat with my new ensemble is the Tall Hat with the pleated crown. It's really a nice pattern.

Arched Tall Hat...


Regular Tall Hat...


18th Century Tall Hat with a little wider brim...
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Offline Rowan MacD

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2014, 08:33:03 AM »
  Gem-The three LM hats I have done are the two you see (in mens' large) and another in Ladies large (which seems to be more suited to children's head sizes, and turned out quite a lot like that red hat in your first picture), with a draped and pleated crown in sage velvet-same material as hat #2.
   The small one was my first attempt with the LM pattern, with the form made of buckram and wire, and while it turned out OK, I wanted a larger version. 
 The plastic embroidery mesh I substituted for the buckram worked so well I went with the smooth, fitted crowns.

  I have the MA hat pattern and did attempt it.  It was a disaster, and the results will not be shown...ever.   The general shape is closer to a contemporary mans top hat than anything Elizabethan.   I like her flat cap and french hood patterns better.
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Offline gem

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2014, 10:23:15 AM »
Thanks, you two!

Rowen--good to know about the MA pattern. I was wondering why I couldn't find a single picture of a finished version anywhere online. Now I guess we know why!  ;)

Lady K--those pictures are very helpful! The red arched-brim hat looks very close to what I want. I think I'll give that pattern a try!

Offline Rowan MacD

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2014, 11:55:04 AM »
Rowen--good to know about the MA pattern. I was wondering why I couldn't find a single picture of a finished version anywhere online. Now I guess we know why!  ;)
  I'm sure my inexperience has a lot to do with how my version turned out :P, and I am equally sure there are success stories out there, though I haven't read any hat diaries giving credit to the MA pattern, nor, like yourself, have I seen any pictures of the finished product. 
  Once you get used to her often odd methods of direction, the LM patterns give good, and fast results.
 
 
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Offline isabelladangelo

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2014, 02:27:36 PM »
I know you are looking at a pattern, but I love the tall hat I bought.  I got it from http://www.talltoad.net/Elizabethan-Tall-Hats.php?type=Smooth and it really looks cute on.

I'm standing in the back of this photo but you can see the hat fairly well:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/m-and-g/5681307013/

Offline Rowan MacD

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2014, 09:15:09 AM »
I know you are looking at a pattern, but I love the tall hat I bought.  I got it from http://www.talltoad.net/Elizabethan-Tall-Hats.php?type=Smooth and it really looks cute on.
  These are what hubby and I are wearing in my avatar. I bought them untrimmed in smooth black velveteen for 60.00.  They aren't period, but fine for most purposes.
   They are fine in dry weather, but be aware that they are made of cardboard; and they go mushy if wet.
   Mine only got a little damp a the Iowa faire, so I was able to carefully reform it.   I don't know how they would hold up to a soaking.  $60.00 is not at all expensive.  A good value for a ready made hat.
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Offline Cilean

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2015, 01:26:38 AM »

Hi All!

Have you checked out  the Hooded Hare's information?
http://thehoodedhare.com/research.htm

I love Tall Hats

Cilean



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Offline Don Giovanni de' Medici

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Re: Tall hat pattern hunt!
« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2015, 01:22:43 PM »
I have found that if you alter the cut on the side of any tall hat pattern more gently in the front and slightly more drastic in the back you can modify a standard flat tall hat into an arced one with relative ease. It should be noted that this will make a slight adjustment to the fit so bear that in mind.

My question to the group is what weight buckram or interfacing do you use.  Any tips on binding the brim to the hat? I have found the http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_elizabethanhats.htm demonstration simple to modify, but wonder if there is a better way.
Sincero,

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