Partlet trouble

[LadyStitch]

This past weekend I wore my nice satin Partlet to Scarby.  I originally started making Partlets for myself after I nearly froze at the opening of Sherwood 2 years ago.  The partlet worked great in that it kept heat in with out adding additional layers under my corset.  The problem is that every time I moved it seemed to want to pop out of my dress.  I'm not sure if I made it too small or if I just need better ties but I'm at my wits end.
How long should the partlet be in front and back.  I have hook and eyes at the neck line, and then ties CF and under arms.  I'm open to suggestions.  I'm plotting a new gown for next year, and I want to make sure my partlet will actually look nice.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I have used the Lynn McMasters Partlet pattern for myself and added 2" extra so that it hits at the midriff. There's no way it would creep upwards.

But because I wear closed  necked Chemises, I seldom wear a partlet anymore.

[isabelladangelo]

Partlets came at all lengths.  Many of the Italian and German ones are shown to come down at a point to the waist (over the stays but under the gown).  This will help a lot.   Also, many others completely cover the shoulders, tying under the arms (mostly Flemish).   This will work if you make the partlet just to the outside edge of your bodice/dress straps. 

[LadyStitch]

Since I am wearing one for warmth not necessarily period look, should I just make a cotton or cotton flannel split front blouse to go under the dress instead of the partlet? 

[isabelladangelo]

You can make a cotton high necked chemise - those actually are period for Spain and Italy- but you can also make a wool or cotton velvet partlet (out of black fabric) to go over this for yet another extra layer.  Our ancestors knew how to dress for the cold.  ;-)

[gem]

My partlet ties under my bust. It's not going anywhere.  But satin is slippery and won't behave like a nice linen or cotton broadcloth. (The pattern--the Margo Anderson freebie--originally had the ties under the arms, but I put them in front so I can put it on without help.)

So many partlet options. My simple cotton one is a big help with warmth, but you could go with something even heavier--the black Tudor overpartlets, or the fur-lined gollars of the German styles. I would think something like this would be fussy and disinclined to stay put, but this style ties under the arms (over the gown, etc).

[LadyStitch]

I made one from the free Margo Anderson one and it didn't come out as I liked collar wise, but length wise it fit.  German styles just don't appeal to me. And I agree that the last one was a bit fussy to begin with.  I may make a new one and just make it bigger but with better ties.  When you say it ties under the bust do you mean , anchored at the back , then under arm, then through the 'hem' of the front and then ties CF?

[gem]

The one in the Margo's Underpinnings pattern is different than the freebie--it's made the same as her high-necked smock. I haven't made it, but maybe you'd like that one better? (It's been a while since I looked at the pattern so I don't really remember what's different, except that it has neck gussets, while the freebie just has a collar stand.)

How I tie mine: I sewed casings in the hems. I feed a drawstring from one CF opening, all the way around my body to the other CF opening: under the arm and through the back, under the other arm, and back through the other front. Then I tie it at CF, under my breasts. The drawstring allows for some fit adjustments, as the panels can slide around a little bit, and nothing rides up or comes untied. I think originally it was supposed to tie under the arms, with four separate ties, but that seemed complicated.

[LadyStitch]

I will look into that pattern.  I did do the four ties and that is how it was a pain in the back side.  I will go back and fix my current partlets in the style you recommended that worked for you.  Gem, do you have an example of the black tudor over partlets?  I am curious.

[isabelladangelo]

http://elizabethan-portraits.com/Mary6.jpg <-Queen Mary wearing one

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Adriaen_van_Cronenburg_Lady_with_a_Yellow_Flower.jpg <-Another fabulous example

http://rencostumer.tripod.com/meeting.htm <- a few on this page; the first painting shows the pointed partlet I explained earlier.

[gem]

Well.... Isabella used to be wearing one in her avatar. 

There were a couple of links to portraits in my first post, and Isabella gave you some more. Very Merry Seamstress sells reconstructions:



And you can see how this one on Deviant Art ties under the arms again:


They come in varying lengths--some cover the bust, some stop above it. I think your lining will play a big role in how well it stays in place. You can also use pins.

[LadyStitch]

So do they go OVER the dress bodice, or under the dress?

[isabelladangelo]

The black wool (or velvet) partlet goes over the bodice.  The white partlet can go either depending on time and place (what style dress and region, basically).   

[Rowan MacD]

  I have made the MA (from the underpinnings patterns) and LM versions-I add 4-6" to the length front and back; so I can tie that bugger around my waist with a flat grosgrain ribbon.  no pulling out of the neck line then!
  The LM version is prettier, but has the same length issues.
  My pet peeve is partlets that don't lie flat and move around under the dress; Oragnza and satin are notorious for this.  I will try pinning mine down to my corset and chemise this year, so that the visible part stays where it should.
    I plan to make a kind of sleeveless, waist length demi-chemise/dicky thing at some point, that will cover my chest and torso, but is more than just tied under my arms.  That should help with the side to side sliding along the bottom ties.


  The over partlet is fastened down over the shoulders and bosom on the outside of the gown, and is generally made from the same fabric as the bodice of the gown.
  A standard partlet is worn inside the neckline of the dress, and can be made of a complimentary fabric or made to match the chemise.  Depends on the dress style.  Early Tudor fashion made use of both styles; later on, the over partlet fell out of fashion.

[gem]

Another picture, just because this one is so gorgeous, with the red lining and the clasps!