Fabric Question

[Tudortriumph]

Hello, and thank you for reading.  My wife and I are new to the garbing ...erm... not sure whether to refer to it as a hobby or an addiction.  We now both have a costume each and want to make a new get up each. 

Our question is what fabric weight is correct for men's attire?  After some research I have determined that wool is correct for my character (lower noble).  I am clueless as to the differences in fabrics, and my wife, while talented is new to this as well.  There are broadcloth, and tropic weights, suiting and coating.  Its all a little overwhelming.

What I can tell you is this, between comfort and historic accuracy I would choose accuracy.  But if there is one type that is both but costs more then I would be willing to spend the extra money.  The last pattern my wife made for me was the simplicity one, but we both agree its a little off...and I hate having to lace it every time.  So we have ordered the Margo Anderson pattern mentioned in these forums.

Thanks in advance!!

[isabelladangelo]

What time of year is your faire?   This will help a lot.  For your shift, you'll need a hankyweight linen.  For the doublet, typically you want a medium wool unless you faire is one of the summer ones - then you want to go to suiting or tropical weight.  Coating weight is exactly as it sounds - for a coat.  It's going to be heavy. 

[Tudortriumph]

Great info, thanks for the reply.  We are just getting into it and are hitting all the local ones now as well as those in California and Colorado...I may just have to look at making a lightweight one and a mid weight one.

As for the different types of wool, broadcloth, felt, etc. is there a type we should be focusing on?

[isabelladangelo]

As long as the wool broadcloth is real wool broadcloth such as is sold at this store, that would be perfect.  However, it's also ridiculously expensive and not something you want to play with if you are new to sewing.  Instead, I'd suggest looking at fabric dot com where they have been having a pretty decent wool sale for the past two years.  :-)  Anything that says it's suiting, medium weight, and mostly wool (55% or greater) like this fabric is what you want.   The one I've linked to is $9.95 a yard and wool/silk blend.  They definitely had fabric blends in the 16th C.  It's far cheaper than the $25 or even $60 a yard for the wool broadcloth.  :-)

Also, the good thing about wool is that it is easy to dye.  So if you find a cheap wool (there are still a lot that are under $4 up on fabric dot com), remember, anything can be dyed black.  You can add color by adding trim later on. 

[Butch]

Wool blends are what I use.  I bought 7(?) yards of a 95% wool poly blend a year or so ago, and have been very happy!  Dark navy.

Like you, I lean towards accuracy.

I have found upholstery fabrics and drapery fabrics to have wonderful texture, so you may wish to consider them as well.  I usually find the remnants at fabricguru.com to be inexpensive and durable.

One thing I'd recommend is making a duct tape shirt pattern of your body and compare it to how the MA pattern will fit, before you do any cutting of fabric.  Also, make a muslin mock up of the main parts of the garb, just to be sure it fits.

Good luck!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

If at all possible, stick with NATURAL fibers like Linen, light Wools, cottons for breathability. Read fiber contents on fabric bolts. Synthetic fabrics, though they be tempting, will be like wearing a garbage bag on a hot day.

Happy fabric shopping.

[Tudortriumph]

Thank you all for responding, really, to have a first question receive so much attention so quickly is unheard of in my experience.  I have to say, one of the best parts of our new hobby is the community!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

This is why you are here, Tudortriumph. To learn from all of our mistakes and experiences.

I cannot speak for the community, only myself. Even I have been sewing for as long as many of the members here have been alive, I too am learning new things. The door is always open here and no question is left unanswered.