Sleeve questions!

[Kendal]

Hi! I'm new here! :-) I'm making a dress for an event at the end of the month and although it won't be 100% historically accurate, I'm doing what I can. However I have two questions that I can't seem to get answered via Google. Both about sleeves.

1. I'm making a chemise for under the dress, and wondering what the authentic alternative to elastic is, for the armholes?

2. I have to alter the pattern for the sleeves of the dress... I couldn't find a pattern that did what I wanted. It's got straight sleeves, I want puffed sleeves. Does anyone have any kind of pattern I could use to create that puffed look? I can attach some pictures.... if I could figure out how....

Thanks!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When making chemises for gkwns, I make neck and wrist cuffs.

AlterYears has a wonderful Nobleman/Noblewoman shirt pattern for such needs. It is worth a look.

[Kendal]

Hi, Kathleen, thanks for replying! I wish I could attach a photo of what I want to make... it's not the same period/style

Ah, here... this is it!

http://media.canal-plus.com/image/23/2/657232.jpg

or this

http://www.frockflicks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Versailles-sur-Canal.jpg

:-)

So how do they do their chemise sleeves and necklines without elastic?

[Trillium]

You can use ribbon in place of elastic.  You would need more length than elastic.  But feed it through the channel just like elastic and then tie the ends together.

[Kendal]

I was wondering if that was how it was done... but it seems a little difficult to tie it with one hand so I wasn't sure if that was how they did it.

[isabelladangelo]

So, the images you posted are of mid 17th century outfits - not renaissance.  The chemises are slightly different in that era but not completely.  The cuffs and the neckline are gathered - no elastic, no ribbon.  You just measure around you and gather the material to that point.  You then stay stitch it by using a small but long piece of fabric to keep the gathers in place (basically binding to the top edge).  I then add lace to the top of it.  Here's a recent chemise I did with examples of extant ones from the Realm of Venus website as well.   Just measure and then gather.  That's it. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Kendal, here are photos of a Nobleman's shirt I made for my husband using wrist and neck cuffs. I like ties as well as buttons and looping.







As you can see, the sleeve is a Raglan type set into the front and back pieces of the shirt and gathered at the neck and wrists. The Alter Years pattern works very well and is very versatile.http://www.alteryears.net/ PAY-011

Hopes this helps.

[Kendal]

Ooh, that's pretty! :-)

Yes, I didn't know what to call that time period... the closest description I got when trying to use Google to name it was "French Renaissance." Is there a name for the 17th century French style?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Kendal, the shirt for my husband and what I make my  clients who order them are Elizabethan period shirts.

The 17th Century French Renaissance would be called Cavalier. A wonderful source website in recreating 17th Century clothing is http://www.renaissancetailor.com/

Making Cavalier style collars and cuffs are http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_cavcollars.htm



Showing some Cuff with the unfinished 17th Century doublet. I made this in 2012.


My inspiration for the Shirt came from my mentor in all things Period, Lynn McMasters.

[Kendal]

Thanks! I'll check it out and try to remember what it's called. I'm only interested in women's dresses right now, til the boyfriend wants to dress up. Right now I'm staring at the pattern I cut out and wondering how to alter it into what I want. I found one blog that might help me (http://bridgesonthebody.blogspot.fr/search/label/1650), and finally gave in and ordered a dress form to help me envision it without pinning it to myself.

I cut out all the pieces for the bodice and my sewing machine should arrive tomorrow (I moved and couldn't bring my sewing machine), so I'm figuring out the dress now... the pattern I bought is Simplicity 4092 because it was the closest I could get, but I need to make the sleeves go off the shoulder, then make puffy sleeves... challenge. I need to finish this all before the end of the month and I can't goof up because I can't buy more fabric (that DID come with me!). lol

[Dinobabe]

If you are looking for a mass production Elizabethan pattern Simplicity 3782 would probably be a better fit time period wise.  They used to have several other decent ones, including undergarments, but I don't see them on the website any more. 

[Kendal]

Thanks! I made my dress, and I'd like to share a photo here but I can't figure out how to upload it. :-P

One thing I need to figure out is how to get the undergarment to stay put, I had to keep pulling it up in the back for the lace to show.

[isabelladangelo]

You upload the photo to your favorite photo sharing site.  I use ipernity.  It will give you the BBcode (not HTML) to insert into the form.  Also, once you have the URL of your photo (ending in jpg or gif), you can use the button above (second row, looks like the Mona Lisa) to help you with the coding.