Corset for smaller women

[Sev]

I asked a similar question on the old board when I was making my first corset/bodice, but I wasn't fully satisfied with the results of that project and still have no clue what the best way to proceed is.

So, here's the story. I'm little. I'm skinny, flat, and have nothing to "squish", really. And quite frankly I have no idea what to do with my... chestal region, when it comes to making a corset. The only way it seemed to me to get any real support was to squish the hell out of the girls, which did not give a terribly flattering look, and was pretty uncomfortable too.

Now, my research thus far has been remarkably lopsided, in that I've focused more on the construction rather than the fit of garments, which is handy in some ways but not in others. How are corsets usually handled for small-busted women? I've considered trying the curved-front seam I've seen on a few corsets (mostly effigy) to see if that'll actually help me, and I've even wondered if I should just bring the neckline up a bit and let it squish me down instead of up -- which would be more comfortable for me, I suspect, and wouldn't look much different. (Just a bit less cleavage on the top.)

I've just finished my mother's corset (which seems to be fitting quite nicely -- I'll have pics up soon), and want to get started on my new one, I just don't know quite what to do with it. If I had the materials, I'd play with the corset pattern generator without any alterations at all, based solely on my measurements, and see how that goes. (My step-sister does have a lot of unused zip ties... and I do have a bit of muslin... hmmm...)

Any advice?

[CenturiesSewing]

Being also small, skinny, and flat I've found a corset built from generator tends to flatten everything out even more, which was the look or the time and does a great job for keeping doublet lines rather smooth.

If you want some.. "omph" I'd suggest a front lacing effigy corset, lacing it from bottom to top tends to shove things upwards while lacing it top to bottom keeps things a bit more contained.

[peggyelizabeth]

I think your answers will be better if you give us a little more than "flat" as a bust size. Are you talking an AA cup or a B?  Do you normally need to wear a bra? With a little more info, we can formulate a better picture in our heads and hopefully be more helpful.

[Sev]

I'm an AA, or an A on good days. It's so hard to find a bra that fits me decently, I stopped bothering a while ago and just live in shelf-bra tank tops haha.

I'm not terribly fond of the "oomph" on me -- I tried going for it with my previous project and ended up uncomfortable and dissatisfied with the look it gave me. Should I be trying for some amount of cleavage (meaning, low-cut)? Or should I try for the flat look? And either way, what's the best route to take to achieve this? A higher neckline, maybe?

[peggyelizabeth]

that helps a lot.
In the long run, you probably don't need a corset, or if you do, just something light. Might not even need any boning-it'd be the period version of your modern shelf bra tank. Not that it would have the shelf, but you could make the corset, and quilt as if it were to have boning channels it to give stability and then after trying it on, decide if you think it needs a few bones or not, or you might try using some hemp cord instead of bones to give light support.

I'm pretty sure there's not an easy answer for you, the ideal will take some trial and error, but if you document the process, it could be very helpful to others in the same position.

[isabelladangelo]

The flat look is actually period.  Women were meant to look like two inverted cones on top of each other.   However, if the corset is hurting you, you might want to try a looser lacing or making a slightly bigger corset.

[FortuneRose]

Pre-pregnancy and baby I was on the smaller side in regards to the bosom.  I found that the corsets and/or bodices that have 3 lacing areas worked the best...  there was the one down the center and then 2 along side...  starting near the armpit and running down toward the center front  Because of the angle, when laced, they pulled the little bit of boobage I had to the center and up.  It gave the illusion that I had more than I actually did.


I'll look and see if I can find a decent photograph for you.


  Don't mind the rest of the photo...  just the lacing I'm talking about..  lol

[verymerryseamstress]

Is the goal to be historically accurate or to create cleavage? 

Historically accurate:  Forget the cleavage and go with a flat-fronted corset to achieve the correct silhouette. 

Cleavage:  I'm flat-chested, too.  I've found that you can get a bit more by rolling a washcloth lengthwise and place it beneath your breasts to give a bit of lift and curve to the front will help with "fluffing" a bit more.  I was never able to achieve much more than a tiny bit of cleavage, but the washcloth trick did help.

[Sev]

Thanks for the replies. I think in the end what I want is accuracy, and if totally flat is the look, well, so much the better, that's easier and probably more comfortable for me to pull off haha... I'll play around with patterns tomorrow and see what I come up with.

[verymerryseamstress]

Here's flat:



Here's with a washcloth:



Note:  there's about 20 pounds difference between the two images (pre-babies vs post-babies), but I'm still flat-chested. All the weight went to my weed puller.   

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

That's way too funny, Heather!!!  Same with me. Which is why Elizabethan works so well for me as a style because of the multitude of sins I can hide under my skirts!     

[Cilean]

But.....that is what you hope for, what you hope to gain from the PoB is the columnar shape.  So you have it in spades! You don't need to push or pull your boobs to your underarm, it is not meant to make a shelf of boobage.

You are exactly what they wanted in Elizabethan England, Round bottomed small waist no boobies to speak of.

So you don't have to kill yourself for cleavage, it was not needed or wanted!!! Live the dream!!!

I have to stick my DD bad boys into my armpits to gain the correct silhouette, please? Stop torturing yourself and stand up proudly! It shows you know the correct way to look your body is already H/A!!

Brava!
Cilean