Bias Tape

[siofra]

Alright, well I posted on a bodice I was going to make 2 years ago, in the old forums, and just got a chance to start it last month.  Not looking for historical accuracy, this is just for my own personal use.  Also, might be important to note it is only the second thing I have ever sewn besides pillows in home Ec class.

I'm working with Simplicity Pattern 9966.  Up until I got to attaching the Bias Tape I was doing fine.  I noted that someone mentioned that the pattern's instructions were confusing, so I was hoping someone could clear it up for me.

I basted all of the layers together w/ a 1/2" seam per the instructions.  I picked up 1/2" Wide Single Fold Bias Tape from JoAnns.  Now I believe I'm supposed to stitch down the one fold to the back side of the fabric along the basted stitch.  Then fold everything over to the front and stitch down the rest of the bias so the entire strip is visible on the front side, and I can then slide in the boning. 

First of all is this correct?  And secondly do I need to trim any of the fabric after attaching the first side of the bias? 

And if I am completely going in the wrong direction, could someone point me to the correct one :-D

Thank You All!

[Pascal]

Lot of discussion on this pattern at http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/search.pl?&search=1&patternid=2450&CompanyID=45&PatternNumber=9966

[gem]

I'm not familiar with this pattern, but Baroness Doune has a wonderful binding tutorial on her website.  (The only thing to be careful about here is that she was using single-fold bias tape, so she sewed the raw edges down first, then flipped the folded edge over.) Personally, I think I'd sew to the front and turn to the back, so that all the stitching is concealed.

I was confused when you said

Then fold everything over to the front and stitch down the rest of the bias so the entire strip is visible on the front side, and I can then slide in the boning

...because typically you need to put the boning in BEFORE you do the bias binding, because the binding will cover up all of the openings to the boning channels.  But then I wondered if somehow the binding was supposed to BE the boning casings... and that still confuses me.

[siofra]

But then I wondered if somehow the binding was supposed to BE the boning casings... and that still confuses me.

The instructions say, "The side binding has formed a casing for the boning".  Since this is only my second actual sewing project (the first was a ren shirt for my now ex-bf), I have yet to learn anything about boning or  bias, etc.

I would want the binding in the front, I chose to use a yellow/gold fabric for my bodice and a brick color for the binding to match my chemise, which I haven't made yet.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Bias Tape is your friend. Especially the Single Fold Wide packs. I use the Quilt Binding for the inside of Hat bands.

I use it on Bodices, Corsets, low necked Chemise Necklines, Bloomies, Hat making, etc.

[Lady L]

Yes, I have made that bodice many times, so ...
Yes, the bias tape becomes the boning channel, so you do sew it to the back, then turn it to the front and stitch it. I used store bought bias tape, but it was a tad too narrow for the duct tie cables. I found making bias from microsuede was easy enough and it doesn't ravel, plus, it looks nicer. Just cut 45 degree strips and use like the packaged bias tape. You sew the side pieces, leaving an opening at the bottom to slide the boning into, then sew that shut. They also say to bind the armholes and neck, but after I did one like that, I changed it to just lining it.

[siofra]

Ok, it seems like I am heading in the right direction then.

Couple of questions I'm still fuzzy about:  The basting stitch the instructions had me do, is that just to hold the layers together?  And do I need to remove it at some point?

Will I need to trim any fabric before sewing down the front portion of the bias tape?

Thanks guys!

[Lady L]

Trimming-that depends upon how thick your fabric is and how much it ravels.
I don't remember if I basted or not, but usually, you do not remove the basting.