Author Topic: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.  (Read 18700 times)

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Offline Genievea Brookstone

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2009, 03:44:00 PM »
See, this is why I'm getting my gown made for me...

LOL
Genievea Brookstone
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Offline Katie Bookwench

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #16 on: August 05, 2009, 04:22:45 PM »
See, I keep asking Maggie to make my garb for me but she steadfastly refuses me every time.

Something selfish about having her own garb to make... *humph*

 :-*
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Offline Margaret

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #17 on: August 05, 2009, 05:37:49 PM »
/Mags snickers at the Katie....    :-*

OK - here we go.  I am using orange embroidery floss for demonstration purposes only and I only did a bit as I don't want orange floss on my pretty purple skirt when it's done.   :D

Here's the skirt to be attached to the band and the finished waistband


Lay skirt on a table or board, then lay the waistband on top of the pleats - right sides together.  You will be sewing the pleats to the bottom edge of the waistband.


Start by putting your needle through the first pleat and up through the waistband.  Bring the thread around and go through the pleat up through the waistband again.  (I'm a double stitcher.)


Continue on to the next pleat - always going up through the top part of the pleat up through the waistband until your skirt is all attached:


Once you are done, the outside of the skirt will look like this:


There's my way of doing it.  I hope this helps explain a bit more.
Here's the link that taught me how to cartridge pleat:  http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/index.html
« Last Edit: August 05, 2009, 05:39:22 PM by Margaret »
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Offline Katie Bookwench

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #18 on: August 05, 2009, 05:53:15 PM »
All right, you pernicious harpy..... I'll sew my own garb if I must;D *sigh*

Well... now show the inside too, just so people can see it how it looks from the 'wrong' side- that's what really made it *click* in my head.

perhaps when you're finished with the correct color floss.

Katie O'Connell - Hollygrove Library
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Offline Margaret

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2009, 08:57:08 PM »
Ah end your rattlin' on there...

Fine - here's the inside of a completed skirt;



And the outside;

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Offline Dinobabe

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #20 on: August 06, 2009, 09:18:58 AM »
So the pleats sit on top of the bum roll and that is what makes them stick out?
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Offline bellevivre

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #21 on: August 06, 2009, 09:32:37 AM »
ok, so the stitches are GOING to show- that's what i couldnt ever figure out- I never seemed to see anyone elses stitches, so i thought i must be doing something wrong... but then, i was using buttonhole twist on dark fabrics! Will go with floss and that should fix my problem- huzzah!

may just be making my red and black tudor this season AFTER ALL!!!
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Offline Margaret

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #22 on: August 06, 2009, 09:51:30 AM »
So the pleats sit on top of the bum roll and that is what makes them stick out?

Yes, the bumroll does help.  Also, you can add a layer of padding such as duck cloth or even thin quilt batting to give the pleats more 'poof' and more ability to stand out on their own.
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Offline Margaret

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #23 on: August 06, 2009, 09:55:30 AM »
ok, so the stitches are GOING to show- that's what i couldnt ever figure out- I never seemed to see anyone elses stitches, so i thought i must be doing something wrong... but then, i was using buttonhole twist on dark fabrics! Will go with floss and that should fix my problem- huzzah!

may just be making my red and black tudor this season AFTER ALL!!!

I can't wait to see it!

My stitches always do show on the outside.  I try to make them inconspicuous as possible, but they do show a bit.
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Offline LadySeasan

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #24 on: August 06, 2009, 11:16:59 AM »
ok, and apparently i still suck at cartridge pleating, and will never try again!

well no, thats not true about trying again, but i cant guarantee that i will no longer suck at it!!!
Clan M'Crack-Season M'Crack

Offline Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #25 on: August 06, 2009, 12:33:57 PM »


I recommend using a thread color close to that of the fabric the Overskirt is made out of if at all possible. That way, the stitches do not show. Mine don't.

As for the pleats themselves, the use of one layer of Cotton Canvas Duck provides the pleats with that stabillity.

Happy Cartridge Pleating ladies. Practice! Practice! Practice!
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Offline Jon Foster

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #26 on: August 06, 2009, 10:25:21 PM »
My wife has been working on a pleating method she likes for a while now. I think her finished pleats look fine but she's never satisfied with them. I think this thread is giving her some new insight.

Jon.

Offline Marietta Graziella

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #27 on: August 07, 2009, 09:25:16 AM »
Hallaluiah!   (think I spelled that wrong)

My stitches always show and it was making me crazy!   I'm glad it's not just me.  :) 

To wrap up and confirm:
1.  Embroidery floss (3 or more strands) is a good thread to sew skirts to waistband/bodices-tons of colors to choose from!
2.  2-3 stitches PER pleat to ensure strength
3.  Boost pleat stability with cotton duck, or thin batting (I use scrap fleece strips)
4.  1" gingham for even pleating
5.  Remove 2nd and 3rd row of pleating thread AFTER skirt is attached to waistband/bodice

What did I miss?!
 
Nothing clever to say here.  Not enough caffine yet.

Offline Margaret

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #28 on: August 07, 2009, 09:57:00 AM »


What did I miss?!
 

6.  Enjoy the Ohhhhh's and Ahhhhhh's you recieve from others.   ;D
Mistress Margaret Baynham
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Offline Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

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Re: Cartridge Pleating. .A Modern Way to get that "Period" Look.
« Reply #29 on: August 07, 2009, 11:46:12 AM »


A Cartridge Pleated Overskirt I did back in January using the method of this thread.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

 

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