Doublet Bodice

[gem]

I've long wanted to make a doublet bodice, ever since first seeing this one several years ago.

I'm thinking I might actually give one a try, if I ever actually do get the new Simplicity corset made.  I have the Margo Anderson pattern; I'm assuming I can use that to make a standalone bodice and not just a gown, right?

Does anyone have fabric recommendations?  Ideally, I'd love to find some wool flannel, velveteen/cotton velvet, or even corduroy... but today I was fondling all the lovely upholstery fabrics at JoAnn... but some of them (particularly chenilles, etc) seem really... floppy for a structured garment like this.  Thoughts?

Any other tips/photos/dress diaries to inspire me?

Gramercy!!

[isabelladangelo]

How I've done mine:

According to Janet Arnold, most of the doublets she studied (both mens and womens) typically have a stiffening layer between.   I use canvas in the two doublets I have.   With the Blue Velvet one I just made from the Simplicity pattern, the think practically stood up on it's on and only needed bones in the very front to keep the shape.   

Considering some doublets in portraits are clearly made of silk, I think, as long as you are using natural fabrics and a interlayer of something stiff (wool, canvas), then you should be okay.

[gem]

Oh--how did you like the Simplicity pattern?  I forgot about that one.

[isabelladangelo]

It wasn't too bad.   I think it would have worked better if I did eyelets or lacing rings.   I used hooks and eyes and found that I couldn't get it to hook across the bust.   Since I was doing an Italian style anyway, it didn't matter much (dress underneath), but I'd add some extra material around the bust area next time I try it.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When in doubt, underline with Cotton Canvas Duck if main fabric is a bit light in weight.

I have seen the Margo Anderson Doublet pattern made on many of the Bristol Nobles. That seems to be the better pattern. Closures have been with covered seed buttons with looping, as well as clasp closures.

[Margaret]

I have made doublets out of cotton velveteen, upholstery fabric, corduroy and silk dupioni.

I have not really used anything much to stiffen them with except for the lining I use, which is usually duck.  I wear them with a corset, so I rely on that to help keep them smooth.  You can also tie or hook them to your skirts as well.

[gem]

Thanks, everyone!

I have a couple of fabric swatches on order (including what looks to be a really beautiful pinkish wool), but the other night I found a couple of yards of yummy black pinwale corduroy in my stash, and I think it just volunteered for the job.    If it turns out I do have enough, it'll be a great NaCoSewMo project.

(I also found about 20 yards of canvas, in several different colors.  I think I'm set there.  )

[operafantomet]

Any other tips/photos/dress diaries to inspire me?

Gramercy!!

Not as much a doublet bodice as a doublet gown, but I just have to post one of my favourites within this genre:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/gallery/1570s/index.html
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/green/page1.html

[Syrilla]

I have eyed that gown myself.  I have a weakness for chevrons. 

[Cilean]

So I have Extreme Costuming for an example of a Doublet here is her site:
http://www.extremecostuming.com/gallery/elizabethanii.html


Here is one of my favorite article from her about adding design to doublets
http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/adozendoubletdesigns.html


Here are some other versions on the web

I hope these give you tons of Sewing Fu!!!

Cilean


















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[Syrilla]

I had forgotten about that trim the doublet site... Thank you!

[Adriana Rose]

What number was that simplicty pattern? I am trying to make some nice bodices for my mom, she has a rather large tattoo on her sholder so she has to either wear her hair down ( wich gets freaky hot) or her chemise really high and it bugs the heck outta me!

SO

patterns that you guys like?

[gem]

Adriana, it's Simplicity 3782.

[Margaret]

For some of my earlier doublets, I have also used The Tailor's Guide Ladies' Riding Habit pattern. 

It needs a bit more tweeking to make it be Elizabethan, but it's not difficult to do.

My current doublets are based off the Simplicity pattern Gem mentioned.

[Adriana Rose]

K I get the blonde award here! That pattern has been sitting next to my computer for like 3 weeks now...