Questions on feathers in hats

[Genievea Brookstone]

I made a flop hat or flat hat  last night to go with my new garb but I am confused about feathers.  I have seen several images with and with out and was wondering if feathers in caps were a  *marker* for class in society?  Also is there a specific side that feathers should be on or does that really matter?

If I were to put feathers in my cap is there a specific length they should be or just proportionate?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Gens~

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

If you are going for the Historically Accurate in  playing a Noblewoman, feathers such as small plumes, Peasant and peacock, do denote upper or Noble classes.

But have fun anyway. Feathers do add a nice touch to hats.

[Genievea Brookstone]

Thanks Lady K.

I am not going H/A or a upper/ Noble, but was courious as so many things in garbing as I have learned just from reading these forums do have a place in society, I didnt want to be too off wall. hehehe

[Sir Sebastian Phoenix]

Feathers/buttons(without holes)/extra material in clothing pieces (arms, etc..)/shiny things all denote your wealth...and in this case class.

Certain colors were normally class specific as well. I'ld stay away from true black and red unless you are in the nobility class. Purple is a big no-no unless you are high nobility.


In my opinion (HA or not) you can never have enough feathers in your hat....

[Gauwyn of Bracknell]

I must be high nobility - I like purple

[Carl Heinz]

My usual peasant flat hat device is a small skull (usually ermine) with some multi-colored hackles sticking out the back.  The middle class hat has a miniature wolf skull carved out of bone mounted on a bone disk with hackles out the back.  I've had no trouble having either pass the Costume Dept.

[Sir Sebastian Phoenix]

I must be high nobility - I like purple

I'm just saying thats the typical cast guidelines. If you are a playton I say wear whatever you want...it's your dime.

I'm 90%  black and Red...good thing my character is a Baron.

[LadyDracolich]

I'd say you've gotten pretty good advice so far.  As for the side... Eh.. It's been my experience that they tend to be worn on the right. All of my hats seem to have the feathers on the right.  That goes for the one's I've bought that already came with feathers and the ones I've added feathers too.  Have fun and good luck!

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I have red, black and yellow on my green hat, to match the colors in the Buchanan tartan.  I also transfer these to my pirate hat when I wear it.  On the pirate hat, I also have some peacock feathers and some that are brown with black tips.  My feathers are all on the left side, because I'm left handed and find it easier to hold them in place with my right hand and sew with my left (to either attach them to the brooch that's pinned on the hat, or in the case of the pirate hat, underneath one of the sides, I sewed and elastic loop to slide the feathers through).

On my husband's noble hat, he has maroon, yellow, and white, and on his Cavalier hat, he has green and black.

Our colors match our garb.  Haven't given any thought of what colors to wear/not to wear, except for purple, which is considered a no-no at Bristol, even for playtrons.

[Gauwyn of Bracknell]

Mine are on the left, since the hat is cavaliered (not sure if that is a real word), but being a right handed swordsman, the left side is up and holds the feathers ( to keep from hitting the brim when the sword is drawn - which actually never happens )

[Genievea Brookstone]

Thank you all so much for the information!  The hat is still featherless at the moment but not for long

[Tixi]

I would think it would have been possible for all but the lowest classes to have had the opportunity to have had feathers, in one form or another.

I would assume that the biggest difference would have been in the quality and perhaps quantity. But quality, like all things, would likely be the truest marker of class.

Large plumes, exquisite colors, rare bird sources, sourced from exotic far off lands - these would be reserved for the nobility or upper middles (Middle class would have certainly tried to emulate the nobility, but limited means and sumptuary laws would have prevented them from from having the 'best' and most exotic feathers).  

However, one can find shed feathers from wild birds, or gather fallen ones from livestock, receive them as gifts from their employer, hand-me-downs, or take a few while plucking the master's dinner...

For a lower-class ensemble, I would try to stick to feathers from local native birds (maybe that would have been eaten or seen regularly?). For middle class, perhaps extend that to more exotic native birds, or birds from nearby lands.

I think it would also depend on the intention of the outfit and the activities you will be engaging in - are you to be working somewhere where feathers would likely be impractical? e.g. doing the wash or tending to a kitchen? Or will you be doing something where you will not be working and want to look your best (going to the market, courting, visiting the pub, visiting family/friends, attending church, etc).

If this is for Faire, I would say it would likely be more of a market/pub/visiting situation so feathers if you have the means (or no feathers - whatever) would be appropriate. But if you are going to be doing historical re-enacting, or trying to achieve an extreme lower class leper look, then I would forgo the feathers altogether.

Another thing (again, I am speculating based on my readings and own logic) that may have been mildly important was the vertical stature of any feathers being worn. This is not so much an issue with a flat cap as it would be with a tall hat or riding hat. But a vertical feather would likely be seen as inappropriate for any without elevated means, while a horizontal feather may have been preferred for the more humble or subordinate classes.

[Genievea Brookstone]

Thanks Trixi, alot of great information there to think about for the future!

Never thought about the vertical stature of the feather on a hat but what you said certainly is logical and makes a lot of sense.

Great stuff, thanks all!

Everyone here is such a wealth of information and greatly appreciated.

[LordPaulet]

Gauwyn, If I remember correctly the major reason the brim was pinned up on one side for a cavalier hat (or muskateer hat if you will) was to keep it away from the flint when firing a rifle.  So if you are right handed it should be pinned up on the right as you would hold your rifle to your right shoulder. 

[Gauwyn of Bracknell]

Gauwyn, If I remember correctly the major reason the brim was pinned up on one side for a cavalier hat (or muskateer hat if you will) was to keep it away from the flint when firing a rifle.  So if you are right handed it should be pinned up on the right as you would hold your rifle to your right shoulder. 

I'm sure this subject could spark a lively debate.  I have also found this (on a hat shop website):

"In the seventeenth century, the swaggering Cavalier hat was conspicuous with broad brim either rolled or cocked and ornamented with long ostrich feathers, "weeping plumes." The crown was often encircled with a jeweled necklace or a silk band sewn with gems. A large gold ornament held the plumes. In those days of free sword play, the feathers were placed to the back or left side of the hat, permitting freedom of the sword arm. Too, the hat ornament was often a love token, and the position on the left side signified the heart or love. The decoration has ever since remained on the left side. "