appropriate fabric?

[sealion]

I am starting a new project but I'm having some trouble choosing an appropriate fabric. I simply don't have enough experience to know what is right and I have a hard time looking at portraits and trying to figure out what fabric might have been used. Anyway- I want to make a coat inspired by this:

I'm thinking the fabric is a silk satin? I've been shopping and the silk satin is waaay beyond my budget at $40 per yard! I saw a polyester shantung in a gorgeous red/gold crossweave (is that the right term?) that is a deep rose at the right angle but I'm afraid it might not be heavy enough. The store also has some nice heavy poly matte satin in their bridal fabrics. Would that be a better choice? (I'm not concerned about getting too warm wearing polyester fabric since this is intended to be worn in cold weather.)

[DonaCatalina]

A lightweight polyester satin won't hang right with the fur. The heaviest weight in satin that you can get will work best, even it is polyester.
There are some satiny drapery fabrics that are not quite as shiny as bridal satin that might work.
Have you looked at shops with drapery and upholstery fabric?

[sealion]

This store (Fields Fabrics) does have a whole seperate building with a huge selection of decorator fabrics so I will take a look there before I make the final decision. Their polyester "bridal" satin did have a nice weight to it, much heavier than anything I've seen at Joanns and the like.

[Queen Maggie]

If you really want to make something like this with the very lightweight fabric, you can flat line it with a heavier interlining to give it the texture it needs. Just cut out the same pieces as the light weight in a heavier interlining and serge or sew them together within the seam allowances, then proceed as though it's one piece of fabric. An additional advantage of doing this is that you can tell at a glance which is right/wrong side and won't mistakenly put the wrong pieces together....

[operafantomet]

From what I can tell, the da Porto portrait shows a surcoat not made from the softest of silk. The folds seems defined - but not stiff. A thick silk satin can be a good match. However... My suggestion is far from historical correct, but it will give you a very neat and smashing result:

Silk dupioni

If you buy a semi-crisp one, it gn give you a result similar to what the surcoat shows. And it's affordable too! Silk dupioni is probably the most affordable silk out there, and can be bought in most nuances and colours.

[Miranda]

Go to www.puresilks.biz. They are located in India and sell silk taffet, satin, and a bunch of other fabrics very reasonably.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Wow!  Thanks for that fabric site!  Some lovely stuff there...

[Cilean]

I am starting a new project but I'm having some trouble choosing an appropriate fabric.
Would that be a better choice? (I'm not concerned about getting too warm wearing polyester fabric since this is intended to be worn in cold weather.)

Okay so no I think everyone has said on the polyester, especially if you are going to be well living with it. It will stain and keep smells and well it is aweful.

However checking out the portrait in question it could be made from:

Linen Satin

Wool in the form of satin weave or twill weave.

Silk Satin or twill weave.

Here is something that is inexpensive in my opinion
http://www.denverfabrics.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=RR814

And here another one in yellow which you can dye to the appropriate color, Silk takes dye very well.
http://www.denverfabrics.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=LL693


Here is basic white again to dye from Dharma Trading
http://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/silk/twill.html

Here is a Silk/Cotton Blend
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/4522735-AA.shtml?lnav=fabric_silk.html

Here is a thinner silk satin
http://www.ksrishti.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=26


Silk Connection still has the best price on Silk Satin
http://silkconnection.com/products/fabric/silk/satin/1512551.php


However, after speaking with Ninya and Jane from Tudor Tailor, I was told that cotton satten can be used so here is a great price for that as well
http://silkconnection.com/products/fabric/cotton/6099449.php


You could also check out wools because summer weight wool could be used on this gown as well


Here again the yellow can be dyed any color.
http://www.trimfabric.com/woolgabardine.html

Here is a lovely supply of Woolens
http://www.trimfabric.com/wool-fabric-1.html


I hope this helps you to see all of the different things you can purchase in fabrics for your new gown!!

Cilean

[sealion]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. This project is on hold for now while I work on some warm arb for hubby. I have decided not to go with any of the polyester "silk look" fabric because most of them are just a bit too shiney and look like polyester. Mail order is difficult for me because I need to touch the fabric to know if it has the "right" weight and drape. I don't have the experience to be able to tell from the descriptions. I don't think I want silk twill or wool because I want a bit of a sheen. Cotton sateen is an interesting idea to be investigated. I think I read that Anea (operafantomet) used sateen for the skirt of her pink gown?

[operafantomet]

I don't think I want silk twill or wool because I want a bit of a sheen. Cotton sateen is an interesting idea to be investigated. I think I read that Anea (operafantomet) used sateen for the skirt of her pink gown?

That is right! I used sateen for the skirt of the pink Bronzino dress, while the bodice and the puffed sleeves is made of silk dupioni. It's the best match I've ever seen between different-fibred fabrics. The colour is identical, and even act the same in different light. One can tell them apart if studying them really close, but few people get THAT close anyway...  Two photos:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/bronzino/zino3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/bronzino/newlucrezia1.jpg

It's not glossy, but it has a certain sheen. I think the cotton is mercerized; at times it really looks like silk. Too bad thick down quilts aren't as popular in the US as in Scandinavia. Duvet covers is a big industry here, often made of high-quality sateen in a wide range of colours and patterns - and not too expensive (well, some are). You get a lot of high-quality fabric for a fair price. IKEA got some stuff, but their cotton isn't as lush as other brands. Might be worth checking out anyhow.

[Cilean]

Mail order is difficult for me because I need to touch the fabric to know if it has the "right" weight and drape. I don't have the experience to be able to tell from the descriptions.

Well first you can order a piece of anything in sample form some give you as big a piece as 18X18 which is enough you can do some experiments on the sample!
I would suggest if you are worried about how it feels before buying a lot then send for a sample.

The fabric that you are looking at is a satin finish or weave in either wool or silk for that portrait and sateen in cotton will give you a good look. I have some aubergine sateen that is just screaming for a Summer Elizabethan and I want to make it after my body decides what size it wants to be.

Cilean

[sealion]

Mail order is difficult for me because I need to touch the fabric to know if it has the "right" weight and drape. I don't have the experience to be able to tell from the descriptions.

Well first you can order a piece of anything in sample form some give you as big a piece as 18X18 which is enough you can do some experiments on the sample!
I would suggest if you are worried about how it feels before buying a lot then send for a sample.

The fabric that you are looking at is a satin finish or weave in either wool or silk for that portrait and sateen in cotton will give you a good look. I have some aubergine sateen that is just screaming for a Summer Elizabethan and I want to make it after my body decides what size it wants to be.Cilean

That comment makes me giggle because that I why this coat got moved up on the project list ahead of the green wool gown that I have had the fabric for for a year!  I refuse to put the effort into a fitted garmet until I lose some weight but the coat really only needs to fit across the shoulders and in the length wich, thankfully, doesn't really change with my weight. LOL

[Cilean]

I have been changing my dietary lifestyle.  No I am not on a diet specifically but I am trying to allow somethings to move out of my life, as such I have gone down from a size 22 to a size 18 almost a 16 in the past 3 years. But my weight is still on my tummy darn it, and it is a tough road!

Yes I have altered 5 things so far and it is exhausting so I am going to wear them until my weight figures out what it wants.

Cilean

[Lady Marielle of Andorra]

Hi, everyone.
I'm a novice at sewing garb, so I'm not completely familiar to what works best. Is taffeta o.k. to use? I'm talking about the "traditional" stuff, not the irridescent, shiny stuff they have out now.

[Miranda]

SILK Taffeta (Emphasis on the Silk  ) is a great fabric with which to work, one of my favorites actually.  My next full gown is going to be silk taffeta, actually.
I find its not as slippery as satin, it is luminous without being shiny, and comes in a whole wide range of colors.