Bodice and Boning

[Dinobabe]

I want to make another bodice but I have never tried boning.  Can I put a properly boned corset (purchased) under an unboned bodice and will it look right?  Can I use super stiff interfacing in the bodice to help stiffen it or is it even necessary? 
Also, how do I add the modesty panel to the back lacing of a bodice?
Thank you!

[operafantomet]

I want to make another bodice but I have never tried boning.  Can I put a properly boned corset (purchased) under an unboned bodice and will it look right?  Can I use super stiff interfacing in the bodice to help stiffen it or is it even necessary? 
Also, how do I add the modesty panel to the back lacing of a bodice?
Thank you!

If the corset is a pre-1800 corset, I think it should work very well under a non-boned bodice. Corsets before 1800 focused on the cone shape, pushing the breasts upwards and making the front area flat. Corsets from the 19.th century mostly aimed for emphasizing the waist and the hourglass silhouette. Wearing such a corset under an SCA garb will not look right.

It is still debated whether one wore corsets in the first half of the 16.th century. There are no trace of it until the mid 1500, and even then traces are far and few. But towards the end of the century and especially the 17.th century, wearing a corset was necessary to get the right shape. Many prefer it for most type of Renaissance clothes, because it makes the outer bodice fit better. So go ahead, wear your corset, as long as it's about the same shape as the bodice.

Boning a bodice isn't really that hard. There are various materials one can use - cable ties, rigilene, steel boning, hemp cord... For all/most techniques, you have a double layer of sturdy fabric, and sew channels where the boning will be inserted into. Check out a pattern book if you're unsure of the placement of the boning (for example Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costumes for Stage and Screen" - many libraries carries her books).

And if you have any questions, there are many talented people on this board that I'm sure are able to help you out. 

[DonaCatalina]

I wear a corset ander an unboned bodice for my c.1550 Spanish dresses.
What I do though is line the bodice in tent weight canvas to give it that smooth unwrinkled look.

[gem]

It all depends on what you want and the look you're going for.

For a "wench" type Fairwear bodice, I personally would find a well-boned bodice more comfortable than wearing bodice + corset.  Even if you don't want want to bone it for *support,* you might want to add some light boning here and there to keep bits of the bodice from curling up, bunching up, or wrinkling.  Even in gowns worn over corsets, there are places you do want to use some boning, to keep a smooth line to the garment.

I would use two layers of canvas before heavyweight interfacing.  I made a bodice that was lined in heavy interfacing, and it *was* stiff, but in sort of unnatural ways, if that makes any sense.  I much prefer two layers of canvas, which give you some "soft stiffness" with more natural flexibility (and breathability!).  The gown I'm wearing in my avatar is stiffened/interlined with two layers of canvas.  The only boning is down the lacing edges.

If you do decide you're interested in boning a bodice, it *really* isn't that hard.  Industrial strength cable ties and a good boning diagram will get you most of the way there.  Good luck!!

[Dinobabe]

Thanks for all of the great advice!  I am going to start on the bodice and other pieces this weekend.  Maybe I'll have a pic to post on Monday.  I love holiday weekends! 

[Syrilla]

Don't forget straw/reeds are great cool boning!

[Adriana Rose]

On the straw thing.....

would using drinking straws work for boning? Ya know the bendy straws...




hugs Adriana the VERY broke wench

[Tygrkat]

On the straw thing.....

would using drinking straws work for boning? Ya know the bendy straws...




hugs Adriana the VERY broke wench

*giggles imagining the 'bendy' sound every time she leaned just the right way*

[Syrilla]

*imagination running amuck*  If it rained, and the water collected at the bodice hem, you could just pull it back up using the straw.  And tada it's dry.  No more wringing out dripping clothing.  You could also pour cold water into them and it would act like a coolant.  hehe 

[Lady Catherine]

Hi hi! not to butt in, but I purchased a $7.99 corn straw broom from lowe's, made it bald, and stuffed my channels. It worked VERY nicely last year, thanks Sy!

<< Sigh>>>, too bad it's WAY too big this year, gotta start from scratch!