More (hemp-boned) corset questions: straps and binding. Oh, and grain.

[gem]

Ok, now that I've got the knack of the hemp cording part (can I get a huzzah!), I can move ahead toward the corset part of the hemp-corded corset!

1.)Straps  I'm planning to use my current corset as a pattern, because it's one piece and it fits me well.  The problem, though, is that that corset is strapless, and I want my hemp-boned corset to have straps.  (I have been following Princess Sara's strap issue in the Dorothea Bodies thread.)  I know that I should cut them on the bias for maximum shoulder-huggage, but beyond that, I'm clueless.  I see some patterns have the straps cut with the back of the corset (like at the Renaissance Tailor), but I'm not sure how to adapt that to what I'm doing.  Where (and how) do the ends fasten?  I like the idea of not having shoulder seams, but I'm not sure how to draft a pattern for that.  I know that Drea Leeds gives instructions for adding straps to her custom corset patterns, but they weren't that clear to me.

2.) Grain  When cutting out a one-piece corset, where should the straight of grain go?

3.) Binding the edges  Since purchased bias binding is my mortal enemy, I'm going to make my own (shudder).  I have never done this before, but I understand the basic technique.  How wide to I want it to be?  I want the fold along each side, like this, right?  Not the fold down the middle with raw edges? Right?  Is that "double fold?" 3.b.) Any specific tips for binding + hemp cord?  Do I cord right up to the edges of the fabric and bind over the raw ends of the cord?  Or do I trim the cord back from the edges, leaving a bit of S/A to bind along?  Will this become obvious as I try to actually do it?  I am a little uncertain of my machines' ability to sew through the cord, although I plan to pick up a leather needle, per Mythrin's recommendation, this week and give it a try again.

Ok, I think that's all for now.  Whew.  Thank you!!

[PrincessSara]

Making your own bias is super easy, and it's way nicer to use than store bought bias binding.  I make mine at least two or three inches wide and cut it down if I need to.

[mollymishap]

Gem, here's a quick DIY bias-tape "maker": http://creativelittledaisy.typepad.com/creative_little_daisy/2007/11/diy-version-of.html.   

I've always just eyeballed it, but I'm going to try her way next time I have to make bias tape...which will probably be sooner rather than later...

And as to the straps, I'm working on that problem myself, so I'll post on the other thread when I've figured it out.  My instinct is to just cut a long evenly wide strap and pin it around until it feels right.

OR!  Didn't you have a similar thing going on when you made your gamurra (sp?) on the old forum?  I seem to remember something about the neckline or straps on that garment too...can't you use the positioning of the straps on that to help you figure out where & what shape they need to be on the corset?

BTW, what kind of hemp did you wind up using and where did you buy it?

[operafantomet]

I am a little uncertain of my machines' ability to sew through the cord, although I plan to pick up a leather needle, per Mythrin's recommendation, this week and give it a try again.

I've never had problems with sewing through the hemp layers in hemp boned bodices. I always add 2-4 horizontal seams to keep the cord in place, before I bind the edges. I've used both thick hemp cord (as seen for the Raphael dress: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/raphaelgown/raphaelbodicenew.jpg ) and a thinner one (for the Unicorn dress).

However, I did read that someone in the "hemp boning" thread had issues with it, and that it broke her needle. So best advice is to try that leather needle and see how it goes?

[mollymishap]

I wonder about using a leather needle on textiles, though...because I've used many a leather needle to sew through many a leather project, and leather needles are made like mini little chisels on the end so as to *cut* through the leather, since with leather there is no warp or weft to go between as in cloth. 

So...why use a leather needle that will inevitably *cut* through the cloth (and possibly weaken it) as opposed to a heavy-duty-mondo-size 18 denim needle?  I don't think the leather ones come any larger than the equivalent denim ones anyway.  Same size, different purpose.  I know you guys know this--I'm just sayin'...

OH, and btw, a cool tip I learned from a cobbler is to hammer the bejeezies out of the thick area that you plan on stitching through *before* you stitch though it.  The pounding "tenderizes" the fibres in the area and gets them to behave (lie flatter, be more supple), allowing you to have an easier time stitching through them.  Also provides for less bulk in that area.  Not a bad thing in this case, since we're talking about the edges of the bodies.

[Artemisia]

I learned that the crossgrain has the most flexibility so it should (traditionally) go around the body. Lengthwise grain which runs with the selvedge has the least and is the strongest.

Here's a handout on grain from Threads Magazine Online:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/bt0003.asp

[gem]

Didn't you have a similar thing going on when you made your gamurra (sp?) on the old forum?  I seem to remember something about the neckline or straps on that garment too...can't you use the positioning of the straps on that to help you figure out where & what shape they need to be on the corset?

BTW, what kind of hemp did you wind up using and where did you buy it?

Holy cow, Molly!  Good memory!  The issue there wasn't the straps, exactly--more getting a good fit in the bust, and eliminating gaps at the armscye and back neckline.  But, yes: I have thought about working with my bodice back pattern strap placement and seeing if that gets me anywhere.  The front straps  are pretty much on the bias, if I'm remembering my pattern correctly. But I'm going to have to spread them way out to the edge of the shoulders and make them really narrow, since I want that wide scoop neckline.

I'm using the fat hemp cord like Mythrin shows in her slideshow--a double thickness fits perfectly in a scant 3/8" channel.  I got it at Hobby Lobby or JoAnn a couple of years ago, but I can't remember which.  I'll be looking for more this week, though.

However, I did read that someone in the "hemp boning" thread had issues with it, and that it broke her needle. So best advice is to try that leather needle and see how it goes?

Yes, that was me! LOL

OH, and btw, a cool tip I learned from a cobbler is to hammer the bejeezies out of the thick area that you plan on stitching through *before* you stitch though it.  The pounding "tenderizes" the fibres in the area and gets them to behave (lie flatter, be more supple), allowing you to have an easier time stitching through them.  Also provides for less bulk in that area.  Not a bad thing in this case, since we're talking about the edges of the bodies.

I *love* this idea!  Thank you for passing it on!

[Kate XXXXXX]

I learned that the crossgrain has the most flexibility so it should (traditionally) go around the body. Lengthwise grain which runs with the selvedge has the least and is the strongest.

Here's a handout on grain from Threads Magazine Online:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/bt0003.asp

On the other hand...

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/yet_another_pet_peeve_waistbands/

[operafantomet]

I learned that the crossgrain has the most flexibility so it should (traditionally) go around the body. Lengthwise grain which runs with the selvedge has the least and is the strongest.

Here's a handout on grain from Threads Magazine Online:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/bt0003.asp

On the other hand...

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/yet_another_pet_peeve_waistbands/

It's a good point for the most, but I'm wondering about the example with jeans. The fabrics are usually so majorly pre-washed and treated that there won't be too much shrinkage. Now many of you will protest at this comment, I know. Jeans are considerable smaller when washed. But that goes for EVERY time you wash it, and it goes back to the same size every time you use it. It's another kind of shrinkage than for example a cotton skirt which will experience permanent shrinkage.

[Artemisia]

Ugh! You know this is just another reason why I don't like commercial patterns. They are nice to figure out how to design the cut of something and...that's about it.

I have realized my jeans shrink everytime I wash them and then stretch out. I always thought it was me. So that means the ab crunches are working!

I learned that the crossgrain has the most flexibility so it should (traditionally) go around the body. Lengthwise grain which runs with the selvedge has the least and is the strongest.

Here's a handout on grain from Threads Magazine Online:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/bt0003.asp

On the other hand...

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/yet_another_pet_peeve_waistbands/

[Kate XXXXXX]

For every rule there is at least one exception.  Just test the lengthwise grain and shrinkage as well as the crosswise grain and shrinkage...

If you look at some extant historic garments, you'll see they were cut out all over the place to save fabric, though most of the major pieces tended to be cut with the grain...  Just be aware of how your fabric behaves.

Take it as a reminder of why denim is NOT a good fabric for corsets, unless it is being used ONLY as the fashion fabric on the outside!

[Cilean]

Gem Wrote:
I know that Drea Leeds gives instructions for adding straps to her custom corset patterns, but they weren't that clear to me.



I had a workshop with Drea and it was still hard to figure out, however if you measure from the back of your corset at the scapula, to the front of the corset -where you want the strap to end, then with that measurement add from the middle of your center back.  Then draw a straight line from the center back of your pattern and that will be your strap line you can make it as thick as you want and you can adjust it longer or shorter.  That is how she showed us how to do the straps.




2.) Grain  When cutting out a one-piece corset, where should the straight of grain go?


I was told to make the body of the corset on the straight of the grain as much as possible.  You don't want give in the corset at all.



3.) Binding the edges  


I will be waiting to see what comes from this answer, because I have only binded 2 PoB's and they were in the same fabric and I just used straight pieces with the raw edges ironed and turned into the middle.