Bodice help

[tigrlily64]

I have a feeling I'm going to be needing a lot of help with my bodice, so this is probably going to be a thread fulll of questions.  Any help that anyone can give would be awesome.

So, first question:  I've been following the Baroness Doune's instructions for making a bodice from a big three pattern. (instructions found here: http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html)  I understand most of it, but I got stuck at figuring out my size.  I made the custom corset pattern, but it seems as though I'm too small for all the sizes, which isn't possible.  How are you supposed to line stuff up and compare it?  Do the edges of the front and back pieces meet at the sizing lines?  Or do they overlap more?  Can I just use the sizing on the pattern envelope?

Thanks again!

[LadyShadow]

The big 3 run big.  I buy my size with them and usually have to end up taking more away because I end up being smaller than what they make you beleive.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Pin the pattern pieces together along the seam lines to compare them.  If the center front is on a fold, you don't need to do anything about it.  If it's open. fold the seam allowance out of the way.  Do the same at the back.

BTW, I always trace off patterns and do all the alterations on a copy in case things go wrong...

[FortuneRose]

I, too, heard that the big 3 run big, however...  I did also hear (possibly even from several others on this forum) that their newest patterns are showing true to size for the first time...  so...  I'd still make a cheapo mockup

[tigrlily64]

I just noticed a fold line on the front pattern pieces, about an inch and a half away from the middle of the front(where the grommets will be).  Should I be measuring to the fold line?  If not, I'm too small for the pattern, which I don't think is true- I have a 34.25 inch bustline.

Edit:  If I measure to the fold line, size eight fits me perfectly.  I think tomorrow I will copy this on some other paper, and try making a mock-up to see how well it fits.  Wish me luck!

[LadyShadow]

Good luck.  Hope it works out for you.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Do post pix of the mock-up (toile) on you, so we can help with the fit.  I'm looking forward to this.  You are doing all the right things so far.

Which pattern are you using?

[tigrlily64]

The same one used in the instructions- Simplicity 5582.

Whenever I have time, I'm going to trace the front onto new paper, and remove the darts.  I already traced the back.

[Kate XXXXXX]

OK, seems clear to me that you have a good set of instructions.   

And if you get stuck, there are plenty of us here to tow you out of the tangles...   

[Elennare]

Don't forget that the pattern pieces have a 5/8" seam allowance.  If you're pinning the pattern together at the lines that show your size, it will be 1 1/4" too big when you try it on.

That said, Simplicity does have an issue with sizing.  And sometimes they just do things weird.  I made a bodice pattern that I discovered upon investigation was designed with 4 INCHES of ease in the bust! o.O  So, I made it again, in a smaller size, and it got 3 or 4 inches shorter.  Neither result looked like what the girl on the package was wearing.  Clearly they custom modified the garment to fit the model, not made the pattern as it was designed.  I've run into that problem a couple of times with Simplicity, and not just the bodices.

When I'm making bodices from Big 3 patterns, I chose the size based on the finished garment measurements, rather than the size it says should go with my measurements.  I've had better luck getting the right size that way.

[gem]

Don't forget that the pattern pieces have a 5/8" seam allowance.  If you're pinning the pattern together at the lines that show your size, it will be 1 1/4" too big when you try it on.

Also, remember that a bodice should fit *very* snugly.  If it's loose anywhere, it will be uncomfortable and it won't look right.  So: mock that baby up!

Here's what the Baroness told me, to compare sizes between patterns:

slide the patterns down the center front line until the top line and bottom line of both patterns match up fairly closely at approximately the side seam area. It is more important to match the top line than the bottom. Look at the center back line of the corsets to see how close or far apart they are.

[tigrlily64]

So after tracing the pattern and removing te darts, I cut out some muslin and just sewed the 2 side and shoulder seams.  I tried it on, and much to my surprise it was too small.  I was expecting it to be too big, and was thinking of making a six instead of the eight.  Good thing I made the mock-up.  Looks like I'll be making the ten.  After testing out that mock-up, I will definitely need some help with fabric choice.  Do I really need six layers of fabric?

[Taffy Saltwater]

Six layers - you'd be cooking.  I use two layers of cotton duck for the boning & an outer fashion fabric.

[tigrlily64]

I think I misread what Baroness Doune was saying.  Six layers would definitely be an awful lot!

[Goody]

After all the reading I've done over the years I believe 6 layers is right. In the bodice I'm  making I did 2 muslin layers for the boning, then canvas on either side, then front fashion fab, and inside/lining.