Need help with neck gussets

[Lorraine]

I'm doing a high necked mens shirt from Margo Anderson's gentleman's pattern and am having trouble figuring out the neck gusset. You're supposed to cut out a square, stitch from dot to dot on both sides, iron in the seam allowance, and fold it over and stitch. The problem I'm running in to is the dots furthest from the corner have a 5/8" seam allowance, when I iron them in and fold over the top I'm left with the 5/8" seam allowance on the slash all bunched up coming out of the top of the fold, it looks nothing like her illustration. The only thing I can think of is cutting in the shirt 5/8" at the top of the fold to free up that fabric, but I don't want to go slashing the shirt body if I'm not supposed to. If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I am sorry that I can't help you there, Lorraine. I like  the Alter Years Shirt/Chemise  pattern far better. Raglan sleeves that are fuller. No gussets needed.

[sealion]

Have you tired the margo's patterns yahoo group? I think that subject has been covered before so you could just search "neck gussets". If not, you can post your question there and Margo will explain it if someone else doesn't beat her to it.

[Lorraine]

I'm currently waiting for approval for the yahoo user's group. Hopefully she approves it soon, I'm so frustrated >.<

[Lady Rosalind]

Basically, the gusset isn't supposed to have an even seam allowance. If you look at the pattern instructions, you'll end up with a square folded diagonally, with the seams of the square enclosed. The seam allowances taper to a point.

(I'll have to look at my son's shirt when I get home to make sure I've explained it properly.)

[Lorraine]

Right, I have it tapering to a point at the end of the slash, and about 5/8" in from the neckline at the part away from the end of the slash, so when I fold it over that 5/8" gets caught in the fold. I tried doing it from the dot on her pattern at the end  and leaving it with no seam allowance at the neckline, but that leaves an even, not tapered seam, with barely any of the neckline enclosed. This is probably one of those things where I'm just missing something easy and overthinking it to death.

[sealion]

Fear of neck gussets is what has kept me wearing partlets with low necked smocks instead of trying to make a high neck smock/shirt. I hope you figure it out or get some help before it drives you nuts!

[Lorraine]

I'm officially walking away from it for now before I do something stupid. I have the cuffs and sleeves all ready to go whenever I do figure it out, but for now I'll be working on a friends bodice. Here are the embroidered cuffs and collar for whenever I do get the darn thing figured out

[sealion]

pretty!

[LadyShadow]

Wow those are awesome.

[DonaCatalina]

wow. I am in awe. Those will be fantastic.

[Sorcha]

Yes...  Wow!  I hope you get it figured out for your sanity and just so I can see the finished project   
Good luck!

[DragonWing]

Love, love, love the embroidery work.  I am going to have to venture into that area sometime.

[operafantomet]

The embroidery is gorgeous. I hope you'll sort it out eventually!

[TheDivineM]

If you haven't gotten a response from the yahoo group yet, come on over to tribe.net and the Elizabethan Clothing tribe, where we have discussed this topic recently. One of Margo's researchers is a member, as well as many other excellent tailors and researchers and we have lots of pics posted. I'm going to post pics soon of the neck gussets in a shirt I am currently finishing.
Sorry I can't be of more specific assistance as I haven't tried to use Margo's patterns, and don't understand the pieces you're describing. My neck gussets are acute triangles fitted into the shoulder seams which turn a T-shaped neck slit into a pentagonal neckhole, which is gathered into a collar much like the one in your photo (but with different embroidery). 
Cheers.
M