Bodice help

[tigrlily64]

I would also be very interested in the answer to Lady Rebecca's question.

[Sorcha]

The Baroness Doune has some options on her website.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/renbodice.html
Towards the middle of this page it gives options on different ways to turn a bodice. 
I've used the ones listed there for a side lacer.  I found that that those directions assume that your bodice has no boning and you will be wearing a corset for support.  You can check out my experience with the side lacer on my dress diary here:
http://coamrey.livejournal.com/1364.html#cutid1

[Mistress Anne]

I have a questions about the mock-up. Does it include the boning? I would think that after the boning is put in place, the garment would be smaller than it was before. Any help?

[dbaldock]

I have a feeling I'm going to be needing a lot of help with my bodice, so this is probably going to be a thread fulll of questions.  Any help that anyone can give would be awesome.
...
Thanks again!

While there may not be too many guys who would help with the sewing of a bodice, if you need any help (un)lacing one, there are probably quite a few who would help with that ...   


Have fun with your project!

Take Care,
David Baldock

[Hoowil]

Guy who has sewn a few (literally) bodices here...

A boned bodice will be a tiny bit smaller, but just to account for the size of the boning. The difference is pretty minimal, in my experience. The last bodice I made for my wife is very heavily boned, and I lost maybe a 1/4 inch at the most once it was all boned. Doing a mock up, I would include at least some boning to get the material to hang right, as otherwise high tension parts (lacing areas, etc) could buch, and you won't see the fitting right through the wrinkles. Last one I made, I did a simple mock up for fitting, that had some boning, and was only two layers. From there I was able to do a few mino adjustments, and use the mock up as my actual insides, with the boning channels. I did make the mock up out of a heavy bottom cloth that I had a bunch of sitting around though. I would not suggest doing that with muslin, or something similar.

[tigrlily64]

When making the mock-up, and then later the underlining, would you first sew the fronts to the backs at the seams for both parts, or would you sew the left fronts, right fronts, and backs together, then sew the front to back seams?  In my mind, the first one makes more sense, but I could definitely be wrong.  In fact, I probably am.

[DonaCatalina]

I sew the front panel together along the top.
I sew the side pieces together around the neckline and arm holes.
The back pieces I sew together along the neckline, arm holes and up the middle of the back. (if it's back laced)


Then I iron them the correct side facing out and then complete the assembly.

[gem]

Tigrlily, what pattern are you using?  It should include directions for turning it (usually through the straps).  It's been a couple of years since I've made a boned bodice, and I have zero memory for how I make things (which is *so* helpful.  ), but IIRC, the two front-lacing bodices I made were open at the bottom of the back and the straps.  There should be enough room in the un-sewn portion of the straps to pull a fully-boned front section through easily.  I usually turn it once to check that I did everything right, then turn it back inside-out and trim all the seam allowances.  Turn it back, press everything, tuck the raw edges of your openings in, pin, press some more, and then topstitch around the entire bodice, closing those openings you used for turning.

You certainly can construct the bodice using "flat" construction (just stack everything together and sew around the edges), and then bind all the raw edges with bias trim (you may want to make your own, which will give a smoother finish than store-bought polyester bias).  I think many seamstresses find binding to be fussier and more difficult than turning, even though turning *sounds* more confusing until you've done it.  Neither way is right or wrong or better or worse.  It's just what you prefer to do.  If you're interested in binding your bodice instead of turning it, read the Baroness's guide to binding a corset by machine.  The techniques are exactly the same. (Of course, you can also bind it by hand.)

My bodices are usually 4 layers: two layers of cotton canvas, a lining layer, and a "fashion fabric" layer.  "Fashion fabric" simply refers to whatever fabric you've chosen for the visible outer layer--NOT the lining or the interlining.  It's not making a judgement about your taste.   I like to make my bodices reversible, using tapestry for the "fashion fabric" layer and corduroy for the "lining" layer (lining refers not to the fabric that's inside the layers of the garment, but the fabric closest to your body as you wear it).

I'm including a picture of the canvas layer from one of my boned bodices, with the boning channels marked:



I cut those two layers together, then graded the seam allowances and cut off the strap from the top layer, to reduce bulk*.  I then marked the boning channels with a ruler and a pencil, and sewed along them (with the layers pinned together).  I then marked each channel with an X, and sewed around the edges, stopping at each X (you don't want to accidentally sew the boning channels closed.  It makes it hard to get the boning in.  ).  *I actually do the grading of seam allowances after I've sewn the pieces together, but it made more sense to explain that first.

The next thing I do is sew the canvas layer to the corduroy layer, so I can treat them as one piece of fabric.  I *think* I put the boning into the channels next.  I then assemble the bodice as Dona Catalina described.  Then turn, finish the raw edges, topstitch, and add those grommets/eyelets/lacers!

Good luck!  I sympathize with your confusion... but things become clearer as you actually do them.  Sometimes it's hard to just read the instructions over and over and try to figure out what they're telling you to do. But once you have the fabric in hand, they make a lot more sense.

[gem]

Here are a couple more image links to help you:

Turned bodice:
http://meritaten.com/costumes/cinnabod.jpg

Bound bodice:
http://www.oddbodkin.com

[Lady Rebecca]

I've had a problem with both bodices I've made so far: they fit fine through the body, but the straps fall off of my shoulders. Is there anything I can do to correct this? It hasn't been so much of a problem with my middle-class bodice, especially after I added the shoulder rolls, but then again, it is sleeveless. My noble bodice, however, it's a major problem on - I have sleeves that lace in to underneath the shoulder rolls on that bodice, and the sleeves (which are very elaborate and heavy), just pull the straps right off. Is there anything I can do about them?

[gem]

My bodice straps are always too long, too.  So my first suggestion is to make them shorter.

You can also experiment with cutting them on the bias (or partially on the bias), so that they will stretch and conform to your shoulders better.  If you do a google search for "corset straps" and other similar terms, you'll find lots of dress diarists who address this exact issue, show their strap patterns, etc.

A third option is to make sure that they're well anchored high and farther in on your back (think how a racer-back bra works).  The lower and wider they are in back, the greater the likelihood of slippage.

[tigrlily64]

Gem, I'm using commercial pattern 5582.  It has instructions for sewing it flat, which I may end up doing.  It makes more sense in my mind, and I'm uncomfortable experimenting too much on my first try.  Especially since I'm pretty sure there will be a few more bodices in my future.   I'm just going to write out what I think I should be doing.  If anyone sees any glaring errors, let me know!
1)  Cut out four front interlinings and two backs.  Then cut out two fronts and one back each of the fashion fabric and lining.
2) Sew the back interlinings together along the top, and the fronts along the top and down the middle.
3) mark and sew the boning channels.
4) Sew around the rest of the edge, skipping over the boning channels.
5) Insert boning.
6) Sew the boning channels closed.
7) Sew the fashion fabric and lining to the interlining.
Sew the fronts to the backs.
9) Apply binding tape around edges.
10) Put in grommets.

I think that's how it goes.  I don't even have my fabric yet, so we'll see when I'll actually have time to put this together.

[tigrlily64]

I'm so excited!  I'm almost done with the bodice, I think I might be able to finish it today...except for the grommets.

So, now I have questions about those.  Where do you buy them?  What kind to buy?  How do you put them in?  And where do you put them in?On the inside or the outside of the first boning?
1) O l l O            or 2) l O O l  ?
O=grommets, l=boning

I can't wait to finish this bodice!

[Sorcha]

Use industrial grommets, NOT the ones you find in JoAnns.  They will not hold up to the stress of a bodice.  They also require a special setter that is different than the ones you buy there.
I get my grommets from Alter Years.
http://www.alteryears.com/index.html?c202.html&1
They have the setters and different sizes and colors of grommets.  I perfer the 00 size. 
The first bone should be at the edge of your bodice where it comes together.  Then a 1/2" space.  Then another bone.  I put my grommets between the two bones in that 1/2" space.  That way the outer bone takes stress and distributes the tension evenly. 
I have never had any pull out.

I know others here bring their projects to shoe repair people for setting.  I'm sure Lady Kathleen will chime in about that.

[gem]

The first bone should be at the edge of your bodice where it comes together.  Then a 1/2" space.  Then another bone.  I put my grommets between the two bones in that 1/2" space.

What she said.

I buy my grommets from Ace Hardware.  Now I just take the old package with me and ask for more, but I think the ones you want are sold as "tarp grommets."  You get a kit that comes with a setting tool (which you can also use to punch the holes) and a bunch of grommets.  They also sell the grommets by themselves.