Margo Anderson partlet

[gem]

So I'm making the partlet freebie from Margo's site.  The instructions call for an optional ruffle, but the pattern doesn't include a piece for the ruffle (just the front, back, and collar pieces).  Did I miss something? 

One reason I'm asking is because I'd actually like to replace the ruffled collar with a box-pleated one, and I'm not sure how to know how long the pleated piece needs to be (before pleating).

Last question: There are ties running through the front and back hems, so you can tie it under your arms, but it looks like from the instructions that you wrap the back ties completely around your body and tie them in front, and vice versa for the front ties.  This sounds a little strange to me.  Isn't there an easier way?

Any thoughts appreciated!  Gramercy!

[Cilean]

So I'm making the partlet freebie from Margo's site.  The instructions call for an optional ruffle, but the pattern doesn't include a piece for the ruffle (just the front, back, and collar pieces).  Did I miss something? 

One reason I'm asking is because I'd actually like to replace the ruffled collar with a box-pleated one, and I'm not sure how to know how long the pleated piece needs to be (before pleating).

Last question: There are ties running through the front and back hems, so you can tie it under your arms, but it looks like from the instructions that you wrap the back ties completely around your body and tie them in front, and vice versa for the front ties.  This sounds a little strange to me.  Isn't there an easier way?

Any thoughts appreciated!  Gramercy!

I know this sounds pretty silly? But I make lengths of Box pleated pieces before I make anything. 
So box pleat any long length you have left in your project.  you will always use it for cuffs or another shirt or smock or partlet, I do think that one pleats down to 15 inches if I am not mistaken and I use at least a yard.

Cilean

[sealion]

All of my partlets have been made from that pattern and IIRC I used a piece three times the length of the collar then gathered or pleated to size. As for the ties- I use one ribbon running through the casings and tie it in the front.

[gem]

All of my partlets have been made from that pattern and IIRC I used a piece three times the length of the collar then gathered or pleated to size. As for the ties- I use one ribbon running through the casings and tie it in the front.

Fabulous!  Thank you so much.  And that was exactly what I was thinking, tie-wise.  That's how my 18th C. skirts work (twill tape going through separate front and back waistbands, and tying on one side).

How *wide* do you make the pleated/ruffle? (length being around the neck; width meaning, how tall are your pleats?)

[sealion]

All of my partlets have been made from that pattern and IIRC I used a piece three times the length of the collar then gathered or pleated to size. As for the ties- I use one ribbon running through the casings and tie it in the front.

Fabulous!  Thank you so much.  And that was exactly what I was thinking, tie-wise.  That's how my 18th C. skirts work (twill tape going through separate front and back waistbands, and tying on one side).

How *wide* do you make the pleated/ruffle? (length being around the neck; width meaning, how tall are your pleats?)

Well, I've made four and they are each a little different! LOL I started with a strip about three inches wide. Two of them were folded in half with both edges caught in the seam so the finished ruffle is about a inch tall. Two of them have one edge sewn in the seam and a rolled hem on the top edge with a finished height of 1.5 to 1.75 inches.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When doing ruffs for Collars and Cuffs, I make the fabric strips 2 1/4 inches wide. That way, I have plenty for the 5/8" seam where it will be pleated and sewn as well as room for lace at the end. One can also do a Box or Knife pleat.

For a 16" neck, I make my strips 3  yards long to get the nice figure 8 pleats when stacked box pleated and then gathered. For each  additional inch of neck measurement, I add 12" of strip.

The Venice  laces I use for Ruffs come from www.cheeptrims.com