To buy or to make?

[Philomel]

Hi everyone,

I'm not sure if this should be here or in sewing, but I'm wondering, when it comes to the really basic pieces, do you find it's better to buy or to build?

I can do basic sewing, but I'm wondering on something like a chemise, is it more cost-effective to buy pre-made or to make your own? 

[robert of armstrong]

Although many take great pride in making their own items of costume and/or garb, there is absolutly no shame in buying items that you love.

[LadyStitch]

Personally I think it depends on how much you want to invest.  If you already have the sewing machine, needles pins, ect to make the project.  Sure go ahead and try. 

If you don't think about the investment of all the items needed vs just buying it. 

Yes I could make a wonderful leather corset for myself BUT I'm not that good and i know people who are far better at it than I and I dont' have to deal with the head ache.  Which is why I will buy my corsets. 

Then again there is nothing like someone asking you where you bought something and being able to say "I made it myself." 

[Cobaltblu]

It is a personal choice.

For me I decided to buy.  Now that doesn't mean I can't get exactly what I want since I provided design input into some custom items for myself.

It is a trade-off of a number of factors:

-Your skill level I.E. can you sew fabric or work with leather or steel.

-Do you have the time needed to make garb?

-Will you end up spending more money to make it than to buy it due to wasted materials and inevitable errors?

-If you only want one item will you spend more money on getting all the items and materials to make it and would it be more cost-effective because of the economy of scale for a full-time artisan to make it along with their other products?

-Can you visualize what you want and do you have the skill to transfer your wants into a viable design?

Regards,

CB

[Lady Neysa]

As far as being cost effective, a chemise is much cheaper to make than to buy.  I've priced them in the $40-50 range depending on where you're getting it, because you have to pay for the time and labor involved.  All the ones I've made typically run me around $7-8 for a full length chemise and I'm quite "prosperous" if you know what I mean.  Same thing goes for skirts. A very basic gathered skirt can cost under $10 to make depending on the fabric.  

As Lady Stitch said, it can be a wonderful feeling to say you made something yourself, but as I'm not that experienced a sewer, sometimes I wish I could spend the money on quality, professionally made garb. Right now I make most everything out of economic necessity, but I always research first to see which way is cheaper.

[gem]

If you are already set up with supplies, it is almost *always* more cost-effective to make it yourself, because you're not paying for the seamstress's labor on top of the materials.

However, YOUR time is worth something, too.  So keep that in mind when you're making this decision--do you enjoy the process, or will spending four hours making a skirt send you screaming up a wall?  If the time and effort you'll have to invest in a project aren't worth it, spend the money.

For example, I just posted a teasing dig in the "portrait garb" thread about embroidery machines.  To me, embroidery is something to do by hand (because I love it, have been stitching my whole life, and consider myself first and foremost a needlewoman, not a seamstress) and I can't justify the price of an embroidery machine.  But those who do own them find that their *time* is more valuable, and would rather pay for the machine than "spend two years embroidering garb" (as I think someone said).

I'm sort of at the stage right now where it's easier and cheaper for me to make almost *anything* myself (I can make a boned bodice in 3 days and a skirt or a chemise in an afternoon), so when I do buy, it's because the piece is amazing, or it's something I wouldn't be interested in making myself, or don't have the time to do.  I'm thinking of buying a pair of silk bloomers from Ophelia's this season, for instance, because I just *love* their garb, and consider them one of my biggest inspirations in my sewing.  And we may buy Milord a pirate coat, because he's been admiring them for a couple of seasons and I haven't seemed to clear a space for one in the queue....

[Arsinoe Selene]

Like others have said, it depends.

I am making a top from a pattern. All I had to buy was the fabric, the grommet trim... pattern, but I had that from before, and I still need a pair of long shoe laces to lace up the back. So, I think it will end up $15-$20. We have a fabric/quilting store on the Boulavard, and it is not JoAnn's quality, it's good stuff.

I like making stuff. If I could, I would make myself a pair of pirate boots. However, I have neither the skills, tools, nor materials to do so in a quality manner.

Some people do not like making things, in the same whay that I don't like fishing. It just doesn't appeal to me.

Questions to help decide if you should make or buy:
-Do you have access to the materials to make it? (ex, living 50 miles from the nearest craft store that may or may not have boning)
-Do you have access to the tools to make it? (sewing machine, etc.)
-Have you had pervious expierences with something similar, positive or negative? (did you throw your sewing machine out the window last time ou tried to sew a straight seam?)
-Do you have the skills? (do you really believe that you can 'wing it' with a pair of boots?)
-Which is cheaper? (is that muslin chemise/undergarmet $50, when you can get the fabric for $1 a yard, and need four yards?)

I'm already plotting more tops, and I haven't even finished my first one.

[Pipere]

Aside from basic skill, there's also the finishing skills required to make a piece last a long time.

On one hand, I have bodices I've made when I was of a decent sewing skill that lasted maybe one season because I didn't know or think to finish/bind edges correctly. For things like bodices, leatherwork, noble garb- I would buy. Skirts, chemises, peasant garb, simpler hats I would definately make, it's the best way to build up a wardrobe.

[isabelladangelo]

Make.   

With a 40 or 50% off coupon from Joanns (good for the online store too!) I can make a chemise out of 38" muslin for under $5, easily.  Considering my first "shirt" in a chemise style was $45 12 years ago....making a chemise is a heck of a lot cheaper.   

It's actually a lot cheaper to make all your garb rather than buy it, and worth it too.  I made this:
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/isabelladangelo/?action=view&current=910322da.jpg
for under $25.  It's velvet (rayon unfortunately but how could I pass up 20 yards of black velvet for only $38?) with poly satin lining on the sleeves but I did make it to prove that you could make noble, historically accurate in construction and look garb, for only a  little money.  It didn't take long to make it either.

If you are unsure of your sewing skills, read various dress diaries online to get ideas and help guide you.  Create your own and ASK for help and suggestions.  Trust me, you will get them. 

[Athena]

I'll echo what the others have said, depends on your skill level. Skirts, pants, and chemises are fairly simple to make, and you can find good fabric at decent prices when fabric and craft stores have sales. Bodices are a bit trickier because of fit, so you may want to wait or get someone with experience to help you.

I would definitely recommend sewing the basics yourself. You can make a good quality garment for less than half the price of one that you would buy ready made.

[Taffy Saltwater]

I have basic sewing skills and make my own skirts & chemises - not to say there have'nt been some truly heinous results.  But said heinous results can be recut for another simple project, a belt pouch for example.  Bodices I leave to the professionals and just ordered my 4th Moresca.  The one time I made a pirate bodice/coat, well, it was hideously expensive & not quite satisfactory, but I'm proud of the effort.  I also know I'll never make another one.

[tigrlily64]

I agree that if you have basic sewing skills, you should definitely make thechemise and skirt.  And accessories.  However, if you have minimal sewing skills or have not worn a bodice before, you would want to buy a bodice.  That way, you'll know how they fit, and you won't be horribly discouraged by not having it perfect on your first time. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I was 11 when I began making mundane clothing for myself from patterns back in the 60's. My sewing skills were very crude, though I had figured out on my own that finishing was paramount to the skills and things I would make later as the years passed along.

It wasn't until the early 80's when the Costuming bug hit me as I went to recreate one of the Frank N' Furter costumes from 'The Rocky Horror Picture Show' for myself that I had to learn a whole new scope of sewing skills and techniques.

For the beginning sewer, it's best to start out with something simple like a chemise. Mentoring with a more experienced sewer can be priceless in what can be learned. Hand sewing techniques are always needed when doing garb. It is a process of learning a technique, doing it over and over, and mastering it as one moves on to new frontiers.

[AnyuBoo]

Having seen the prices of garb at Faires and online, I've found it to be MUCH more cost-effective if I make my own, especially since I have a membership at the local fabric store, which saves me 20% off regular priced items, and there are sometimes members-only sales.  (It's how I managed to get crushed velvet which was regularly $20/metre for $4/metre...it was already on sale, and members got an additional 50% off the sale price.  )  Now, with the exception of leather items, I make all the family's garb.

[Merry]

If you are new to sewing and cost isn't an issue, then buy some of the basics like bodices.  They are difficult to make for a beginning seamstress.   Get your feet wet with the chemise and skirt.  They are simple to sew and definately cheaper to make than buy.   But be willing to purchase the bodice as a good fitting bodice is gold, especially boned bodies!  They can make or break your 'look'. 

Once you decide what to do, make sure you do a little research on your choice of garb.   If you are a playton you can be as free with style and fabric as you want!  Have fun!  But if you are working the faire, what are the guidelines your faire adheres to?  How historically accurate do you need to be (or want to be)?  There are alot of beautiful things out there, but not all of them are h/a (great for the after parties tho!)  It would be a shame to put the money and work into your garb and find out that it's not appropriate for your station, period fabric, or breaks the Sumptuary Laws.   Ask your fellow rennies...they will probably be helpful in this.

Enjoy and good luck!