Tip on corset making

[Lady Leo]

I'm thinking about making a corset using a commerical pattern.  Any suggestions tips or better pattern options. I have no plans to start right away so any suggestions or tip would be a great help.

[redkimba]

1.  trace the pattern out onto tissue paper or graph paper - Joann's has it, but I can't remember what it's called. 
2.  use cheap muslin fabric - that way you can see where it fits or doesn't fit, etc.
3.  depending on which corset you want to use, look up the thread here.  I know that tips on the Simplicity Tudor corset are here.

that's all I can think of for now....

[Kate XXXXXX]

Invest in real boning.  And sew the eyelets!

[Betty Munro]

Are you making a corset (to be worn under a noble gown), or a bodice to be worn as outerwear, (wench)?
There are lots of commercial costume patterns, and I'm sure everyone has their favorite, and once you make one, you'll think of ways to customize it to better fit your body type and personal style.
I don't necessarily agree about investing in real boning ... I like the convenience of heavy duty zip ties.

[gem]

I used the Simplicity 2621 corset pattern, and I made it up so that I could wear it as outerwear if I wanted (which is good, since I don't actually have anything to wear *over* it yet!).  You can see pictures of mine here and here. 

The most important thing to remember with using a commercial pattern is that they can run large, and you really want a snug, supportive fit in a corset.  I've seen advice to pick a pattern 2" smaller than your measurements, which will give you the proper amount of "squish."  For me, I'm thin but busty (so not a lot of squish everywhere else), so I ended up choosing the pattern that corresponded to my waist and hip measurements, rather than my bust measurement (my actual measurements, not the 2" thing).  But of course I made a mockup first!! (Complete with boning the front section to see how supportive it would be.)  A rule of thumb for a back-lacing corset: if the lacing edges meet when you're laced into it, it's too big.

Check out the other current thread running on this exact topic: Materials Help.

Good luck!  Like you, I studied and researched a long time before I finally made a corset (I'd been talking about doing it for *years.*)  The Simplicity pattern gave me the spur I needed to dive in and actually do it.

[Lady Leo]

I'm looking to use it as outer wear.  I currently have a courset that my grandmother bought me as a birthday present a few years ago from Renaissance fashions.  They have a booth at my home fair.  I was think of using simplicity pattern 2966.  I was looking at the instructions lastnight and I want to do an interlining made of duckcloth.  I has also think of making it reversible.  So I will have to deviate from the instructions or if anyone has a suggestion for a better pattern or instructions that I could follow.  I've only been sewing for a few years and need instructions to be successful in making my garments look right.  I'm a perfectionest I will tearout seam 2 and 3 times if it doesn't look right or goof something up. So any help is a huge help. 

Also with commerical patterns they tend to run small for me I have large hips 44.5, waist 36, and my bust is 36 and high bust is 39 and I'm not bust I'm between an A/B cup.  So I'm not really sure how I should be choose my sized based on my measurements.  In the past when I've made dresses I go by the sizes like I wear a 14-16 so I usually use the size 18 and it usually works out for me, but this is a differant animal I just know it.

[gem]

Is this the pattern?  If so, that looks more like a mundane, bustier-style top.  Hopefully someone who's made a garment like that (vs a Renaissance-era corset or fairwear-style bodice) will reply!

Good luck!

[Lady Leo]

Yes that's the one.  My home fair is not set in the Renaissance period sad to say, but is more medieval and fantacy so I would use this as a wench or pirate type garb.

[Betty Munro]

I think we can agree that it is not a H/A period pattern ... whew, you're just looking to have fun, yes?  That takes so much stress out of making a non-H/A recommendation.   hmmmm ... Does the pattern have boning?  I suspect they will plan for using the cheap garment thin fabric store "boning".  Don't do it, it will not hold up to a day at faire.  Go real, or zip tie, but you can't get the good stuff at the fabric store. 
Have you seen the thread on using grommets?  Also something you will probably have to get at the hardware store.  The eyelets at the fabric store will not hold up against a laced corset.  Someone suggested having grommets set at your local shoe repair shop.  Sounds like a great idea, saves you on having to buy the setting tools if you are only going to make one corset.  (Warning - corsets / bodices are like potato chips ...)
I have made bodices with just one layer of lining and one layer of "fashion" fabric.  They just don't have the same hold as the ones with double layer of lining.  If your pattern doesn't call for 2 layers of lining, I'd add it in.
Most important, have fun with the process!
I think I need to make myself another bodice now ...     
 

[Lady Leo]

I'm lucky to have a friend who does leather work for a living so I have several hundred grommet (not fabric store quality).  He also bought me the proper setting tools to do the job.  I have several links for real boning. I do not plan on using the stuff at the fabric store.  I also want to do an extra layer.  Would I do one layer of duck cloth or a double layer?  I want it reversible so I would use two layers of fashion fabric.  I just bought the first chose on Sat.  I did think about making it reversible until today so I will have to get the fabric for the other side at a later date.

[Betty Munro]

Personally, I would do a double layer of duck cloth, even if you make it reversible and have "fashion fabric" on both sides.  A corset is like building a home on the seashore ... you just can't build it too strong!  But then I like my bodices to feel like body armor. 
A friend that does leather work ... you are lucky indeed!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Side A

Side B

A reversible corset made for Lady Joyce Ann as outer wear with Chemises and skirts. Made with several layers of Cotton Canvas Duck, boned with heavy Duty Cable ties, then Upholstery fabrics. I had left over silk from another project that I cut on the bias to make Bias Tape. The corset pattern was  this one from Alter Years. For more Period Correct corsets for worn under garments, I use the plastic coated metal boning.


Pattern 001