tricky fabric, need some suggestions

[Auryn]

Hi guys.
This weekend I finally got to do some sewing and started working on my "green dress" that I have been thinking about for months.

well the fabric that I picked out that I thought would be perfect is a very thin green cotton thats got some stretch to it- the kind of stretch that leaves little waves in the fabric when it comes back.
So the collar on the dress is turning out to be way too flimsy and I am afraid the shoulders are also too flimsy.
I was thinking of different options for reinforcing the edge and for raising the collar a bit ( I don't have that much cleavage- I'm wearing an awesome push up bra in that picture) so I can bend over with no problems.

Here is what I was thinking as possible solutions
1- line the dress with another layer of the same material.
2-add a 2"-3" edge of contrasting bias tape all around the collar including the shoulders-to widen the shoulders and the collar and give it a little more strength at the shoulders
3- add a front and back yoke to the dress (would look like theres a shirt coming up from under the dress.

What do you guys think??
Here is the dress.
Forgive the look on my face, it was late last night and it was 60o in my apartment.
Oh and yes it does have sleeves- just haven't gotten there yet

[Genievea Brookstone]

What about putting some facing in the choulder and collar? Between the lining and the fashion fabric.  Maybe a mid weight to give it some strength?

[gem]

Could we see the pattern (or a sketch) you're using?  It's hard to tell what you *want* the dress to look like from the photo and your description.  What kind of collar? What's wrong with the shoulders? Etc.

[Auryn]

The dress is pattern 4490 of McCalls
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4490.htm?search=4490&page=1
The bottom version- havent decided on the sleeves yet.
The yoke pattern (thats what its called in the pattern so I am assuming that is the correct term for the contrasting fabric attached to the collar) I am thinking of using is from simplicity 4940 -version B the gold one(its the pattern I had on hand that seemed like a feasible solution).
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t21/what-i-found/VintagePatterns/s4940-10.jpg

The shoulders- even though I used the correct size, they sit really far off my shoulders, to the point where they could easily slide off. I made a mockup in muslin. From the mock up I thought that adding 2 inches in width to each shoulder would be enough to make it sit more securely but its not enough.

Other than those two things I love the cut of the dress.
I was thinking of maybe using the muslin mockup as the lining since its already sewn.

[Genievea Brookstone]

That is the gown I am wearing in my avitar. The shoulders are meant to be slightly off.  I didn't line mine because I made it out of velvet and it was hot enough. The collar is also loose fitting. If you look at alleycatscratch.com there are several pictures of Arwens gowns that are similar.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Don't forget that the front neckline of the McCalls pattern is supposed o be slightly gathered.  It doesn't look like you have done that yet in the top picture.  Do that before doing another fitting.  It will make a difference to the shoulders.

[Auryn]

Thank you
Kate I did forget to gather so I will do that this afternoon.
Hopefully that will settle my issue.

[Aelynn of Georgina]

I've made this dress twice and love it!  (Actually it's my only garb, as I am new to the whole garbing thing.) 
The first one (as seen in the pic below) isn't lined as the fabric is very heavy and hot.  But I did line the second one I made (I don't have any pics of it, sorry) and both gowns fit very similarly, however it really depends on the fabric you use.  In my pic I am wearing a chemise underneath, just to give you an idea of how it would look with a yoke.  You can also see how wide the neckline is (and I have rather broad shoulders) which felt odd to begin with, but I got used to it.  Once it is laced nice and tight it doesn't slip down as readily. 



If none of this helps at all, perhaps you could make the back panels that you lace up a bit narrower to pull the whole dress up and back slightly when it's laced. Does that make any sense? 

Tomorrow I will put my other gown on and get photos to show you.

[Auryn]

Thanks everyone for the help. I ended up gathering the collar and sewing the back completely instead of doing the lacing- that helped a lot. During the week I'm goin to add about a 2-3" bias trim to the collar to help give it a little more width to sit on my shoulders - as it is it has a tendency to slide down.
I'll post a picture as soon as I'm done. I might hit up joanns this Sunday and find a fabric with a bit more body and try to make it again

[ladyharrogate]

Hope things are going well on the dress.  Just a thought is try a stay tape at the neck opening.  It's a twill tape that won't stretch and will stabilize the neck, then sew your bias tape.  Bias tape will have a tendency to stretch but the stay tape wont.  Also, if it's still too big after doing the recommended gathering you can gather a little more than they recommend.  That trick works well too for anyone making the pattern who has a bigger bustline.  With thinner fabrics you can line like you were talking about or use an interlining which is where you use another fabric with your fashion fabric and work with them as one piece. 

I used to use dollar table fabrics and stuff but from doing wedding and evening wear I learned that sometimes you save more spending a few extra dollars on a really good fabric.  Still, there are always tricks that have to be used whatever fabric you're using.  Don't even ask how many late nights I've spent cussing silk charmeuse for a fitted evening gown!!!  There are some great books that cover things like underlining, flat lining, etc.  We use it all the time in the costume shop because it really does make a difference, not only in how the garment turns out but also in how long it lasts. 

Don't know if I've helped any since you already had some wonderful tips and have a lot done on the dress.  Just thought I'd throw in a few more thoughts.  Best of luck with the project.  Cant wait to see pictures!!!