Mockup fatigue

[gem]

Does this happen to anyone else? 

I'm trying to make a high-necked smock (easy, right?). Well, I'm on Mockup #4, and I'm starting to get tired and frustrated. This is what *always* happens to me. Even if I have a decent idea of what I need to do to fix the next version, eventually I get so worn out making mockups that I abandon the project altogether. That's what happened last summer with Promenade. It's what happened this winter with Gimli (although I *am* coming back to that one... just as soon as I bang the smock into submission!). I guess I just need a little encouragement... and maybe some stories of just how many mockups other people have gone through before getting something to fit properly!

[CenturiesSewing]

Oh sewing war wounds....

Try 5 to 6 doublet mock ups from a pattern you drafted from scratch, and start to get very mad at yourself because you think you keep doing something wrong. Then suddenly realize that you have sloping forward shoulders and that could be what is throwing things off.

And then finding none of your "how to tweak patterns', pattern book really cover it in a way that works for something without darts or much ease.

Forgetting seam allowances on bodice straps or not having the doublet come out far enough on the shoulder to set sleeves into, because you forgot to mark that extra bit on the mock up and already cut into you fashion fabric and don't have any extra to re-cut. Which is the number one reason my older projects have lace on sleeves.

Oh and sleeves, drafting at least 15 sleeves patterns over the course of several projects, and when you go to make them 2 piece finding something is always off about them. Then realize that the bloody book is WRONG and you really should have noticed it sooner. Over compensating for too much ease that is found in most sleeve caps by putting too little, and forgetting to raise the underarm section to fix it. (Hello set of narrow Tudor turned back sleeves lined in fur that is still sitting in my stash.)

[gem]

You have no idea how good that makes me feel! Bad for you, of course, but your garb is so absolutely gorgeous, and it fits you *so beautifully,* that I think, "Well, of course she must be easy to fit!" Not so, eh?    Seriously, shoulders + bust = ridiculous. No wonder they invented darts!!

And if *you* had doublet bodice trouble... oh, I'm doomed.  Right now my problem is reconciling a size 12 bust/waist/hips with size less-than-2 shoulders. Happily, however, I have achieved a bodice portion that fits! Still need to see how sleeves and collar affect things, but I think I'll quit tonight on a high note.

Let's hear some other mockup war stories!

ETA: I just found this blog entry by the Curious Frau (Marion McNealy), and I feel like I must be in good company, if  even *she* cursed her way through two smocks!! The blog begins, "One would think that something so simple would be hard to mess up." LOL

[Lady L]

On average, it takes me 3 times to get something to fit the way I want it. For myself, I have narrow shoulders, short waist, short arms and large bust. I don't know why the pattern companies think that when a person gains weight, they gain it in half inch increments! My arms don't get longer when I gain weight in the middle!

[ArielCallista]

honestly....i get so frustrated with mock ups that I quite often just skip that stage...I usually pay for it by screwing up along the way...but I've yet to have it be too big of a deal...I also have no problem fitting myself...I mean when i buy stuff its always complicated but I'm so used to making stuff for myself its no problem... I also quite often just use a pattern and make any modifications on the pattern itself

[Kate XXXXXX]

4-8 for a wedding dress.  3 for some fitted trousers... 4 for a bias cut chiffon outfit...  3 for a man's frock coat circa 1800.

I forget how many for my Miss Havishem outfit for one customer...

And 4 for a 'simple' top for a very large lady!  We abandoned flat patterns and toiles on her eventually and draped the fabric and pinned it.  Took all day, but we ended up with a really nice fitting princess seamed shell top!  And just to be different, we put buttons on the shoulders so as not to break up the neckline.

I'm doing a really simple wedding dress toile today.  It may well not be the only toile!

[theatrekat]

Gem,

Try cutting your next mock-up off the pattern that would fit your shoulders, and add to the side seams the amount of fabric that would be the difference between that size and your bust size.

My sister is the same way, she has shoulders that measure for a size 12 but her measurements are around a 22/24.  I made 5 mock-ups of one dress for her before someone told me that trick.  Cut a size 12 bodice for her, added the 10+ inches is the side seams to get to her "pattern size" and put it together.  Mock-up#6 fit like a glove.

-kat

[ladyharrogate]

I feel your pain on this one!  I always hated when I was making wedding gowns and the brides would get upset at how many mock up fittings they had.  Of course they were always happy with the final results but the process was painful, for me at least!  Renaissance stuff is a little easier but some things can still be a  beast.  I think I did two mock ups for my partlett but was so glad because it looks fab.  I've had to get away from doing to many though working with the childrens theater.  Our performers have limited time for fittings so have to make every one count to the max even though it can be frustrating.  Love the sewing and design so I think it's worth the stress in the end.

Angel H.  aka. Lady Harrogate of Fairehaven