J.P. Ryan 1750's Coat - View A

[Sorcha]

All~
After reading frustrating reviews regarding the Simplicity Men's Pirate pattern and positive reviews of the JP Ryan 1750s coat pattern, I've decided to go with the JP Ryan pattern in view A.
I have my fabric and my pattern and I'm ready to go. 
I know there are people here that have used this pattern before.  Are there any suggestions or tweaks or issues anyone wants to share before I get too far in?

Any ideas AND photos are welcome!!

[Kate XXXXXX]

It was dead easy!  here's my version: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Town-Crier/town_crier_project.htm

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The JP Ryan 1750's Coat pattern is the only one I use for Pirate coats.

Just make sure when you use a fabric with a nap like Corduroy or Velveteen, all pattern pieces go the same way.

[gem]

Not for this pattern, but I made my own 18th Century jacket from a JP Ryan pattern, and it was the best pattern I've ever worked with in my life. It went together beautifully, with no strife whatsoever.  Even though I didn't like her cap pattern, I still wouldn't hesitate to order another pattern from her!

[Sorcha]

Okay...  Someone told me that this coat goes together like Legos using the JP Ryan pattern.  (I'm looking in Kate XXXXXX's direction)  What if I didn't play with Legos when I was a child??
I knew I would have trouble with this part as soon as I saw the weird pattern pieces for the back.  I'm stuck on the pleating part.  Step #1 is sewing the backs together, done. And step #2 is pleating the bottom.

"Following the back pleat fold markings on your pattern, fold pleat in place, pinning the top seam allowance to top of the pleat, and the top of the pleat to the inside of the coat."

Umm...  Right.  I know what they want me to do.  Pleat all that extra stuff into the back.  But there really isn't much of a picture of this process and I'm a visual person.  I just don't get it.  I need more words or pictures.
A little help PLEASE ladies??

[gem]

Have you sat down and fiddled with the fabric yet? I found the pleat instructions for the caraco to be confusing (meaningless might be a better term)--until I actually sat down and *did* it, and everything fell immediately into place. I don't know if it's the same sort of pleats, but maybe it's one of those things that can't be easily explained, but makes sense when you actually go to do it?

(That probably doesn't sound terribly reassuring, does it? I'm sorry!)

[Kate XXXXXX]

The ONLY problem I had was at the top of those pleats, where the directions fail to mention that there is a RAW EDGE FINISH.

This was very common at the time.  You need to use something like a blanket stitch to finish that edge, and then cover it with trim.  Take a read through my project on this coat: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Town-Crier/town_crier_project.htm

I'm sorry there isn't a lot of detail on this project: it was one of the first project diaries I ever did, and I didn't know how detail-hungry the world was!

[Valencia]

ooooh, I LOVE that coat! I have been halfheartedly looking for a pattern just like that! For those of you who have made it, do you find the sizes to be true to the measurements? I would love to make one for someone, he wears medium shirts, would he still wear the size 40 coat size? Or should I buy a size large pattern?

[Sorcha]

Okay...  I'll try fiddling with the fabric a bit more. 
Kate~ I saw that post about the odd seam in the back on your page, but I wasn't sure if that was the same step you were referring to when I read it.   
Like I said, I know what they want me to do, I just don't understand the directions on the "how" part.  It does make a bit more sense now that you say it's a raw edge finish.  The photo is helpful too!
I kept wondering how I was suppose to sew this thing like they say in the directions when they also print on the pattern peice to be careful cutting because there is no seam allowance.    Sew but dont have a seam allowance. 
Thanks for the help!

As far as sizing goes Jacqueline, I'm not sure yet.  Sleeves seemed a little long when I did the fitting, but DH had freakishly short arms.  So he's not a good measure. 
I'm sure the other ladies have ideas.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Part of the reason for the odd instruction is that the coat pattern is taken from a military coat and they often had raw edge finishes, bing made from fulled fabric (generally a heavy Melton cloth), which really doesn't fray at all.  I didn't want this on that heavy, so had to work out a really firm and fray-resistant finish for a zero seam allowance area!  Just pin then hand baste it to the under layers, and sew firmly through all layers.  Like I said on my project, buttonhole stitch was often used.  if your machine will do a small blanket stitch like mine, that will do perfectly.  Otherwise just do a close wide zigzag (not quite a satin stitch) and sew some decorative braid over it.