Slashed doublets, sleeves etc.

[DonaCatalina]

Someone noticed that sevweral things I have made have slashing as part of the embellishment. They asked why I used extra long buttonholes in stead of just fray check.
My answer: Buttonhole stitching doesn't wash out, but fray check eventually does.

[Evie McCann]

Buttonhole stitching doesn't wash out, but fray check eventually does.

Amen to that!!!

[gem]

There is a spectacular portrait in Tudor Tailor showing a slashed doublet bound with satin stitch (it *could* be cord, but it doesn't look like it):



And here's a closeup of the sleeve:



I was thinking how time-consuming that must have been in period--but how *simply* it could be done by machine today!

...Not by me, of course. By somebody else. LOL

[operafantomet]

There is a spectacular portrait in Tudor Tailor showing a slashed doublet bound with satin stitch (it *could* be cord, but it doesn't look like it):

(...)

And here's a closeup of the sleeve:



I was thinking how time-consuming that must have been in period--but how *simply* it could be done by machine today!

...Not by me, of course. By somebody else. LOL

Given its 3D nature (how raised the gold is from the black), I would have guessed it is gold cord piping. Seems like a quicker option than stitching, and it could also better explain the gold at the shoulder seam and doublet opening.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Gold embroidery thread over a thicker cord filler would do it nicely...

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I concur with Kate. From the portrait, tghat looks like cord sewn over with gold thread.

I cheat and use piping. I have the upper part of sleeves to finish for Toki Bloodaxe in that style. The rest of the Doublet and Bottom part of the sleves has the slashed look done in panels. Similar to making paned slops.

[operafantomet]

I concur with Kate. From the portrait, tghat looks like cord sewn over with gold thread.

But wouldn't that be period piping? I thought cord decorated with either fabric or thread, applied to seams and edges, were piping. But maybe I'm using the term wrong.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Piping is usually wrapped in fabric or is a bullion cord sewn onto a finished edge after.  Here we're talking about finishing the edge with a satin stitch over a filler cord such as a heavy crochet cotton in a blending colour.

I'd probably do the stitching first and then cut the sashes rather than slash and then stitch.  Much more stable for the stitching.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

That sounds feasable, Kate. Iwill have to do tht on a scrap and see how it works before I do that procedure on the actual fabric.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Get a special needle for metallic embroidery thread.  That stuff can be a bugger to sew with!  And buy a good quality thread.  Madeira is nice.  I've had more trouble with the Gutterman and the Sulky metallic threads.

[DonaCatalina]

French, about 1575

[Syrilla]

Ooh, love those slashes!