Car tips.

[Baron Doune]

A lot of us are driving high mileage cars and using band aids and duct tape to hold them together.

If you got a tip...post it here.

Overheating.

When stuck in going no where traffic and you see that your car is running hot do this, it works.

Turn the heater on full blast.  It removes heat from the engine.

And no I'm not goofing on you...it works.

[Kiss-me-Kate]

I can attest to that.  I had a car once that was prone to doing that.  You may have sweat pouring down your face.

Always make sure to change your oil regularly, and also the air filter occassionally.  Once in a while, change the fuel filter and the spark plugs too.
AND-If your car is newer, and a GM model, (I learned this the hard way) after you fill up, make sure to twist that gas cap on really tight.  Or the idiot light comes on, and you have to pay to get it shut off, because hey, just in case, you may really have a problem.

Also, make sure you tires are inflated properly.

I know, this is all routine maintenance, but it helps to keep your car tuned up.

[Hoowil]

Any car '96 or newer should have a check engine light or check gas cap light that comes on if the cap isn't turned till it clicks. If you are sure thats why the light is on, disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. You may have to reset your clock and radio stations, but that beats paying a shop.
Just make sure, if you hae a stock stereo to check you owners manual. Some require an activation code to prevent radio theft (silly, since the ones that do that usually won't fit in a different vehicle). It should be listed in you owners manual. If not, next tiem you go to you mechanic, ask if they've got it on record. Most places, if you've had you car worked on there before will try to keep it on file, so they don't have to pull the radio for a serial number, to get the code from a dealer every time they cut power.

The heater thing works, cause your heater is basically a mini radiator with an electric fan. Thus, it only works if you've got enough coolant in the engine. If you do this, and you don't get a blast of real hot air, and the temperature drops, GET OFF THE ROAD! Otherwise bad things happen.
Make sure you use the right coolant. Most GMs use and orange, some newer fords do too. Newr haondas and toyotas use red. Colors do not mix (usually, ther are universal yellows and clears that mix). Adding the wrong kind can (won't always, but can) cause your coolant to congeal, and again, bad things happen.

Always make sure you use the right oil if you change it yourself. And as a note, even if you don't please learn where the dipstick is, and check it regularly. Low oil, dirty oil, or the wrong weight oil can effect engine wear, and performance. Honda's variable cam poerformance packages (VTEC) use oil pressure to engage different cam lobes.

On long down grades, down shift. The engine lag will keep you from accelerating as much, and you won't damage you brakes.

If you've got the hood open, look for the brake fluid reservoir, usually right against the cak of the engine compartment, driver's side. They'll usually be labeled on newr cars. Check the fluid level. It'll give you an idea of you brake wear. There should be a min and a max line marked. If its low, either your brakes are worn, or you've got a leak. Either way, it should be taken care of. If its not low, but not all the way up, don't add anything, or it makes it harder to guage wear.

Hey, if anyone has a car question, I'm a certified mechanic, and more than happy to talk shop, and give suggestions/ideas.

[Baron Doune]

Hoowil!!!

Wish I would have know this a couple of days ago.

Was trying to remove a couple of broken bolts from a shock absorber...long story.  It had to be removed to replace a broken spring.  The heads of the bolts stripped right off.

The kid and I tried everything to get them out.  Finally he got a small torch to heat them.

Never knew this would work.

Going to start working on a 2000 E150 van soon.  260K miles.

Engine is good, tranny is good and if the wheels don't fall off it will make a good backup car.

[Sir Gawain]

And don't forget to check your blinker fluid

[Dayna]

Now that summer seems to finally have arrived in MN, Get Your Tire Air Changed!!!!!!!!  Winter air can cause tire failure during the summer, and vice versus.

Dayna 

[Hoowil]

Hoowil!!!

Wish I would have know this a couple of days ago.

Was trying to remove a couple of broken bolts from a shock absorber...long story.  It had to be removed to replace a broken spring.  The heads of the bolts stripped right off.

The kid and I tried everything to get them out.  Finally he got a small torch to heat them.

Never knew this would work.

Going to start working on a 2000 E150 van soon.  260K miles.

Engine is good, tranny is good and if the wheels don't fall off it will make a good backup car.

Toches can work, just be careful there are not rubber bushings, or wiring next to what you're heating. lso, see if you can find a can of penetrating oil. PB Blaster is the best, but may be a little harder to find. Spray som on a sticking but or nut, wait a few minutes, and try again. The stuff can work wonders. Also, for something like that, a pair of vice grips, or channel lock pliers (some are designed with harsh teeth, and a steep angle on the jaws, so that they tighten their grip as you push to turn) can be a life saver. Or, if it comes to it, reak or cut the head off the bolt, then you can grab the shaft where it passes thru, might be able to get a better grip.

Be carefull with shocks and struts, especially struts. Those springs areincredibly strong. There are tools for releaseing the tension slowly, and for applying it slowly, or even just holding it, so to be able to safely handle the springs. Just figure, those things can hold up your car, and each are holding over a thousand pounds. Not to say they're not fairly simple (usually) to work with, just be careful.

Other random broken/stripped bolt tip: find out which of you local hardware stores has a good nut and bolt selection. Except for specialty bolys (headbolts and such) you can usually find replacements in bulk bins for  less than a buck (some of the small ones for less than a quater). MUCH cheaper than trying to locate the bolt thru a dealer, and less hassle than pick'n'pull.

Side note: why did someone have to bring up cars?  Now I'm at home all day, and you guys will have to listen to my incessant ramblings on the subject... 

[anne of oaktower]

Soooo...I just got a new (used) vehicle a couple of weeks ago.  The first thing I always do is sit down and read through the owners manual.  (Yes....I'm one of those people.)  So, the manual very clearly says to use 5w30 oil.  The oil filler cap also very clearly says - in bright yellow letters on a black plastic cap - use only 5w30 oil.

I'm driving down the road one day and just happen to glance up at the sticker on the windshield.  You know...the one that gives an approximate date and/or mileage when you should have the oil changed again.  Well, right there on the sticker on the line that says "oil grade" it is noted that someone put 10w40 oil in the vehicle.

Now, why on earth would someone do this?  I understand the concept of using a better viscosity oil in the winter, but why would someone totally ignore the manufacturer's recommendation and put a thicker oil in it - especially in the heat of the summer?

[Noble Dreg]

Hey Anne, sounds like an 'old school" mechanic changed your oil last...10-40 was King 20 years ago!  Stick with the owners manual, the manufacturer wants the car to run as long as possible for the betterment of their image, they know what they are talking about!

[Hoowil]

Also most shops get one or two weights of oil in bulk, I'm talking 400 gallon drums somewhere on the premises. They'll try to 'play ignorant' and give you that, since they're paying about a dollar a quart for it, instead of the two something they pay for stuff they get by the case. Charge the same for the oil change, and hey, its 'free' money.

If you go back to the same place for your next oil change, or whereever you do go, since you know what oil you need, ask. If you tell them before the serfvice that you want 5-30, and they put something else in it, you can make them re-change you oil.

Also, the technician may have goofed and miss-marked the sticker. We mechanics make mistakes too  .

As to sitting and reading the manual, good for you! I think everyone should do that. People study manuals for vcrs, and video games, but ignore ones for machines that cost tens of thousands of dollars. Does that make sense?

[anne of oaktower]

Thank you, gentlemen.  I was pretty sure there was no good reason for using the wrong oil, but needed confirmation from those who've worked on vehicles a bit more recently than I have.

Now, to the task of tracking down the source of the electrical/fuse issues.....

[Baron Doune]

Oh hell I'm good at that Lady Anne!

(well not really, I swear my door chime thing plays Happy Birthday when I leave the lights on and the key in the ignition.)

[Hoowil]

What kind of electrical issues are you having? And what do you know about wiring? ANd what kind of access do you have to tools? I mioght be able to give you a few starting points depending on whats going on.

[anne of oaktower]

The electrical issues are, hopefully, just minor things....I'm thinking (hoping!!!) fuses/circuit breakers.

The trip mileage tends to reset itself whenever it feels like it.  Odometer works fine, but trip mileage is cranky.  I usually use it to gauge my mpg.

The sliding side door won't work.  I have it turned off right now because otherwise the vehicle (2000 Pontiac Montana) makes a strange beeping noise.  The door opens and closes just fine manually.

Rear wiper won't work.  I think the motor is shot, but it's going to stay that way because I don't feel like ripping the hatch apart to install a new one.  If I'm really lucky, I'll get it to work when I'm messing around with the fuses and such - if not, oh well.  I lived without a rear wiper for many years, so it's no big deal.

There's something going on with the battery/alternator/voltage regulator.  Sometimes - but not every time - I notice the lights doing a little disco thing....quite rapidly flashing brighter then going back to normal.  They're not getting dimmer then going back to normal, so I'm disinclined to think the alternator needs replaced yet.  A mechanic checked it and said it's reading out at around 16 volts, which is, of course, a bit higher than normal.

Frequently, when I start it I get a whiff of gasoline.  I don't like the mileage I'm getting from it, but I'm not sure if the two are related, or if the low mpg is just due to the sub-standard gas we're being sold at ridiculous prices. 

I'm sure there a couple of other things, too, but can't remember them at the moment.  I've been recovering from surgery so there hasn't been time to go out and fuss with the fuses.

I long for the "good old days" when I could pop the hood and do most of the work myself but, alas, since computers have invaded every aspect of our lives, I can no longer do much under the hood these days. 

[Noble Dreg]

And don't forget to check your blinker fluid

A good freind of mine called me once and complained he was having trouble with his newly purchased used '63 Jag, it was running like crap (what a shock!).  I told him my Mk10 had issues when the carburetor fluid got low, mine leaked...he thanked me and changed the subject.  Well I see him a day or two later and he's all smiles...tell's me he'd heard of muffler bearings too!  So I say 'did adding fluid help'?  He say's 'What do you take me for'?  So I showed him where to add auto-tranny fluid to a British SU carburetor.  I will never forget the look on his face!

So if you have an older Brit car or bike don't forget to check the fluid level in the carb (or carbs) before a tune up!