Corset help!--Update on Page 2

[Kathleen MacLeod]

I'm gearing up to start what I think will be my most challenging project yet--making a renaissance corset. I've helped my mom and grandma make a court gown, and I recently made the bodice off of Simplicity's 3623, so I'm not a stranger to boning. What I need help with is deciding how to make this thing work. The pattern I've got is Simplicity 2621. I'm obviously going to leave the front the way the pattern has it, as I want the smooth, seamless look of the busk. What I want to know is...

1. If there's a way that I can make this sucker so I can lace myself into it. I'm thinking either eliminating the back laces altogether and making it side lacing, or putting laces in both places but lock-lacing the back and using the side laces to get in and out. If I went either of these routes, would it be possible to just have laces on one side, or would I need them on both? Is trying to lace myself into a corset from the side even a feasible idea, or is that going to be impossible to yank tightly?

2. I've never worn a renaissance corset before, so I'm not sure how well they stay up! If I make it strapless instead of how the pattern does it, will I be fighting to keep it up all the time?

[Lady Rebecca]

I highly recommend the Elizabethan corset generator. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/

I used it for the corset I just made (strapless, with boned set in tabs) and it fits perfectly and was a breeze to make. You can see some pictures of how it tuns out on pgs 87 and 88 of the in progress thread.

[isabelladangelo]

Keep the straps.  Although you shouldn't "need" them, they are helpful!  (Think pinning sleeves)   

As for making it easier to lace yourself in.  Rather than having the front cut on a fold, cut the back on a fold, eliminate the busk, and cut the front so it's two pieces.  Do NOT make it a side lacing if you want to be able to lace yourself in.  Side lacing can be a bigger pain than back lacing.  I know how to back lace myself in.   Side lacing just means you have to lace yourself in twice over.   It's not fun in stays.  In a dress, as long as you pre lace the dress, it's easier and is a lot more fun.   

Front lacing is also period too.  I don't think I've ever come across a side lacing period pair of bodies. 

[gem]

I've made that corset. The assets stay up just fine even without the straps actually contributing anything (mine are too long, which is how I know this!).

The only issue I see with switching from back to front lacing is that a properly fitting back-lacing corset does not fully close in the back. There will (and should) be a gap. But you don't want to transfer this gap to the front, or it won't fit properly (not to mention being horribly uncomfortable!).

If you use spiral lacing instead of the recommended lacing guides, you should be able to lace yourself up--just use a single lace long enough to stay laced up while you step into the corset (did that make sense? You loosen it up but the lacing stays in.), and you should be able to pull it taut yourself. However, hoisting your assets into position will be a little more difficult one-handed.

Alternatively, this pattern has side-back seams, which are period for gowns/kirtles/etc, and which are probably easier to lace yourself into (and here again a gap is OK). Again you'll want spiral lacing, and I believe you leave one side laced all the time and just pull the other one tight when you get in and out of it.

[Lady Rebecca]

I second the no side lacing. I tried it once, and will never do it again, because it's pretty much impossible for me to get that bodice on. I think doing front and back lacing is best. It gives you more room for adjustment, but its still easy to put on.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Front lacing, as gem suggests, works slick. One can get themselves laced into a corset just fine when using a full length mirror.

[Lady Rosalind]

My corset has back lacing and front hooks. Easy to get into, but still adjustable when needed. I have to make a new corset soon, and I fully intend to make it the exact same way.

[LadyShadow]

front hooks.

What type hooks do you use?

[Kathleen MacLeod]

Keep the straps.  Although you shouldn't "need" them, they are helpful!  (Think pinning sleeves)  

Front lacing is also period too.  I don't think I've ever come across a side lacing period pair of bodies.  

I wanted to forego the straps simply because the faire where I'm on court runs in July. Because it's ridiculously hot and humid almost all of our days, the ladies of the court are often improper and don't where chemises. The straps of my dresses come out far enough on my shoulders that they wouldn't cover the corset straps; therefore, no corset straps for me

I wanted to avoid front lacing simply because I need the busk to help keep everything smooth down my front.

Also, since I've got everyone here anyway, do you all use steel boning in your corsets? Where do you buy it? I'm getting sick of the wimpy plastic stuff Joann's sells.

[raevyncait]

For boning, I have used steel Electrician's fish tape, cut to the appropriate length. It comes in 1/4" width, isn't difficult to cut with decent wire cutters, and it's about $10 for 25 feet which will make 2 and part of a 3rd corset for me. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100660167  I have discovered, however, that I need closer to 1/2" boning, which, I could still do with the fish tape, just make a double channel and it's still only about $10 for the boning.

If you want spring steel,  I can recommend fellow Wench Devlyn's Odd Bodkin site: http://www.oddbodkin.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=48_60

[Lady Rebecca]

Cable ties! The ones I buy are Malco 36" clear nylon ties, and you get a package of 25 for around $8-10. Then just cut them to size and round the corners. They're about 1/2" wide.

Make sure when you go to Home Depot to look for them (since I personally haven't found this brand at Lowes) that you specify the brand. They are usually not found in the electrical aisle (I can't remember where they are found - I had to ask about 5 different people the last time I went, and the last one found someone carrying some to go put away). Good luck! They're worth the search.

[Anna Iram]

It's been a while since I've purchased any, but I'm thinking they were found in ...plumbing?

..and while you're in Home Depot stop by the paint department. A wooden paint stirrer makes a fine corset busk. Got this from someone here ages ago. It really works well!  

[Elennare]

Possibly in the section with dryer vents and such as well.  They're sometimes called Duct ties.  Make sure you get the big, sturdy ones, not the little wimpy ones. 

[Adriana Rose]

The cable ties I use are black and they have like 50 ton rating ( I think its funny to see how much they can hold lol) and they are in with the electric wireing stuff I think.I havent gotten them in a while and I have convinced my brother in law to bring me a hand full from his work at the coal mine (they just toss em some times) If you cant find them ask some one for the heavy duty cable ties.

[Kathleen MacLeod]

Cable ties it is! Actually, now that I think about it, I have a few ren faire friends who have said they use cable ties in their garb, too.

..and while you're in Home Depot stop by the paint department. A wooden paint stirrer makes a fine corset busk. Got this from someone here ages ago. It really works well!  

That's genius! How well would that hold up to the weather, though? We usually have at least a couple of days where it pours rain and you get soaked to the skin. What do you think... varnish to keep it from mildewing? And that would also mean I couldn't toss it in the washing machine. Sad