Let's talk about partlets

[operafantomet]

I've tried to make a decent partlet for my Italian dresses multiple times. Each time they come out crap. Too small, too wide, unfitting in general, or just... crap. Now I have a gorgeous fabric for a new one, but before I make a toile for it I ask you:

1. Do you have a preferred pattern for your partlet(s)? From a specific book or online site?
2. Do you cut the partlet in one, two, three or four pieces? I.E. one whole piece, or separate front pieces and one back piece, or even add a seam in the back?
3. Do you use ties or buttons under the arms?

My fabric looks like it's insertion stitching binding narrow strips together, or like drawn thread work. Very cool fabric. It was a scrap in a local shop, ca. 1,5 yard, and I got it for three dollars. Very happy about that. I'm going for a collarless version, or only with a semi-high collar. I want it fairly square, and *almost* closed in front. Quite basic, in other words. Like these:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/baliademedici1540s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze2/bronzino1542.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/zucchi1565.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/anguissolacrem3.jpg

So any good partlet advices? Patterns? Pictures? I have searched the web and found three patterns which might be useful, but they all appear to be made of minimum three pieces/panels. I wonder why it cannot be made with two or maybe only one piece, but I'm guessing there's an explanation for that (in period times it would probably be fabric saving and using the fabric as wisely as possible). Basically, I want to hear the experience of other people before I start, cause I know many of you here has made quite exquisite partlets.

[operafantomet]

PS - this is one of the patterns I've glanced at, from Jennifer Thompson's site. Anyone tried it?

http://www.festiveattyre.com/gallery/linens/partlet.gif

[Stasiakatt]

http://www.margospatterns.com/wwadapt.htm

This is the link to Margo Anderson's partlet pattern. It's three pieces. There are 9 links to PDFs to download the pages to print out, put together and there's your pattern. I can't remember what thread I saw this partlet in, but it seems to be a good one from what I read in the thread. I haven't made it yet.
Ann

[DonaCatalina]

Belive it or not I used the men's shirt pattern

see result here
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x71/Dona_Catalina/Other%20Garb%20Projects/LadyAllesandra1-8-2005-1.jpg
I cut it down to waist length, cut the sleeves down to cap sleeves and put a drawstring around the bottom.

[sealion]

http://www.margospatterns.com/wwadapt.htm

This is the link to Margo Anderson's partlet pattern. It's three pieces. There are 9 links to PDFs to download the pages to print out, put together and there's your pattern. I can't remember what thread I saw this partlet in, but it seems to be a good one from what I read in the thread. I haven't made it yet.
Ann

This is the pattern I've used for all of my partlets. Mine all have pleated or ruffled collars but this pattern could work if you just make the neck band without the collar pieces. The portrait examples linked all appear to have a neck band.

[gem]

I've used the freebie Margo Anderson partlet twice now (once as the body for a smock!). Its construction is oddly completely different than the partlet included in her undies pattern, so be aware of that. One thing you might like about it is that the .pdfs are graded for size, so you don't have to fuss with trying to adapt it yourself.

As Ann said, it's three pieces (one solid back and two front panels). Mine has a casing at the bottom of each panel, and I run twill tape through the back, under the arms, and around to the front opening, and tie it in front (under my breasts, which makes a huge difference in the fit! YMMV with this, of course).

My first thought was what Sealion said: make it without the collar. Some of the portraits you linked to do appear to have a neckband, but a couple of the others don't. I think you should give Jen Thompson's pattern a try and get back to us, because the little curved integral collar is fascinating to me. 

[Anna Iram]

I'd love to see how the Jen Thompson with an integrated collar turns out. Very pretty line.

Gem, I tried my hand a few years ago with the same Margo freepattern.  At least I think it was this one. Mine fell far short of underbust. It called for elastic ties, so perhaps it was another pattern. Anyway I wore it once I think as it was so bunchy. I think if I were to try again I'd run a channel as you did and make it longer. Might solvle my particular problem.

[Cilean]

I love Margo's Partlet pattern as well and I might add Lynn McMaster's Pattern located here:
http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/

I did a toile and I really love how it came out!

Cilean

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

I have used this Partlet pattern from Lynn McMasters for a variety of partlets in different fabrics . Even so to make a regular Standup collar and hand done Ruff.

It's the same partlet that I wear in my Profile photo made from Silk Organza.

[operafantomet]

Thank you all for wonderful advices! I just needed some good inputs, but got a lot more. And it helped me so much.

In the end I went for fairly rectangular* pieces, and decided to make a small collar. It turned out a tad bigger than planned, because the fabric is fairly thick. But I actually love the result! In the neck opening I have a braided cotton cord with a tassel end (scrap from the last camicia I made). I will make more of it to use under the arms, to tie the back and front together. But hooray, I have a partlet! And I like the effect of the fabric. I made an apron of it too, with a small cotton lace trim (see last picture). Not sure I will use them together, though... It's a bit too matchy for my taste.




*ETA: I wrote triangular pieces. I did of course mean rectangular....

[gem]

Anea, that looks terrific! 

(When I bought my new sewing machine, I also got the winged needle for heirloom stitching, with the plan to make an elaborate whitework partlet someday.

[Anna Iram]

That's so pretty. I like it.

I've noticed your partlet and the one on Margo's pattern that Kathleen recommended is much larger than the rather small one I made some years back. Did you use a pattern, Anea, or did you make your own to your own specifications?

[operafantomet]

I've noticed your partlet and the one on Margo's pattern that Kathleen recommended is much larger than the rather small one I made some years back. Did you use a pattern, Anea, or did you make your own to your own specifications?

The front isn't quite finished in the pictures, but the back shows the right length. I made it a bit longer than most partlet patterns. Main reason is that my back is broad and long, and every partlet I've made in the past have been too short. I went for the opposite route this time around... I'd rather have it too long than too short. But some of my Italian dresses also have a very big, square neck opening. Wouldn't risk any gaps anywhere.

Oh, and I didn't use any patterns for this one. I just didn't click with any of them. I started with a long strip of fabric, and cut, tucked and folded it until it became a partlet. I though this was the best way to make a main pattern I can use for later, and so far it has worked well. Just some fitting in the front left.