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If you could make garb to match a portrait........

Started by DonaCatalina, May 08, 2008, 02:02:47 PM

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0 Members and 17 Guests are viewing this topic.

Athena

This.

I don't know anything about this portrait (looks like Queen Elizabeth I), but I've totally fallen in love with it. I'm fascinated by the cloak/robe (please garb experts, explain what that is  :)) she's wearing. Is it green or teal (looks teal to my eyes)? Silk or velvet?

The colors, jewelry, and accessories go together beautifully. Her gloves are exquisite! I love the color of the gown, it reminds me of the gold gown in QE I's coronation portrait.

A book is like a garden carried in the pocket. ~ Chinese Proverb

DonaCatalina

Yes this is QEI. I believe this one is referred to as the 'glove portrait' because of the embroidered gloves that are displayed so prominently.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

PrincessSara

I would have called that a mantle at first glance, but in looking closer it seems to have a sleeve on her left arm.  It almost looks like a ropa - but the style of gown looks to be from after the time when the ropa was popular in England (correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not as knowledgeable on late Elizabethan fashion as I could be).  And again, it looks a bit too un-tailored for a ropa, so it may just be something added for pretty drapery in the portrait?  If I were to make the gown though I would probably make it a ropa for ease of wear so I wouldn't have to carry a big drape of fabric everywhere.

But I absolutely love the colour combinations - I'm a slave to teal.  ;D

operafantomet



Not sure I necessarily want this dress, but the fabric and the red jewelry is super funky. And surprisingly she wears a very green underskirt with gold pattern visible in the split skirt front. The detail above is from a larger portraits painted by Fasolo, and is of Paula Bonanone Gualdo and her daughters. It was painted in Vicenza near Venice in the 1560s. Fasolo also painted a triple portrait of the father with two sons. Fullshot of both portraits here (they're huuuuge):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/fasolo1560gualdos.jpg
http://www.museicivicivicenza.it/en/mcp/opera.php/10484

gem

Sara, if you look closely, you can see a second green sleeve on her right arm. The poor quality of the preservation on the painting makes it hard to see, but it's there! I don't know if that helps interpret what she's wearing, though.

Anea, that striped fabric is really unusual! I don't think I've seen anything like it in period before.

Cilean

#260


Check out this portrait! It is Anna of Austria and look at the diamond jewels,  as well as a Habsburg double eagle. This was done in 1616 and not in 1570's by Bartolomé González y Serrano.  I love the trim on this and I can see the slashes in the Kirtle with red trim.




Cilean





Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail


operafantomet

#262
Quote from: Cilean on December 29, 2010, 10:19:16 PM


Check out this portrait! It is Anna of Austria and look at the diamond jewels,  as well as a Habsburg double eagle. This was done in 1616 and not in 1570's by Bartolomé González y Serrano.  I love the trim on this and I can see the slashes in the Kirtle with red trim.

http://www.gogmsite.net/_Media/1616_copy_of_1570_origina-7.jpeg

Cilean



I think it's a doublet bodice and not a kirtle, but agreed: wow! The details are amazing, especially the trims and the jewelry. I also love the red bows/loops with large golden aglets on her sleeves. Funky!

Alisoun

#263
Quote from: Cilean on December 29, 2010, 10:19:16 PM


Check out this portrait! It is Anna of Austria and look at the diamond jewels,  as well as a Habsburg double eagle. This was done in 1616 and not in 1570's by Bartolomé González y Serrano.  I love the trim on this and I can see the slashes in the Kirtle with red trim.

http://www.gogmsite.net/_Media/1616_copy_of_1570_origina-7.jpeg

Cilean



I need my wedding gown and a seam ripper...  :)
"Act as if what you do makes a difference. It does." --William James

Cilean

Quote from: operafantomet on December 30, 2010, 06:41:46 AM

I think it's a doublet bodice and not a kirtle, but agreed: wow! The details are amazing, especially the trims and the jewelry. I also love the red bows/loops with large golden aglets on her sleeves. Funky!



Looking at it, since we can't see what is under the overgown because it is closed but since the sleeves and the inner doublet is awesome I was extrapolating that the skirting inside would be the same! I would love to pink the crap out of an entire thing! 

Only of course I am not a red person so I am thinking....! If I did the inner gown in deep blue and silver? Then did the over gown in white?  Hmmmmmmmmmmm!!!! I would need Bridal Silk Satin for the outer gown...?? I think I could use blue ties and hmmmmm it seems I will be doing all sorts of things, not that I can sew any time soon! LOL

Cilean

Cilean


Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail

operafantomet

Quote from: Cilean on January 01, 2011, 02:34:20 AM
Quote from: operafantomet on December 30, 2010, 06:41:46 AM

I think it's a doublet bodice and not a kirtle, but agreed: wow! The details are amazing, especially the trims and the jewelry. I also love the red bows/loops with large golden aglets on her sleeves. Funky!



Looking at it, since we can't see what is under the overgown because it is closed but since the sleeves and the inner doublet is awesome I was extrapolating that the skirting inside would be the same! I would love to pink the crap out of an entire thing! 

Only of course I am not a red person so I am thinking....! If I did the inner gown in deep blue and silver? Then did the over gown in white?  Hmmmmmmmmmmm!!!! I would need Bridal Silk Satin for the outer gown...?? I think I could use blue ties and hmmmmm it seems I will be doing all sorts of things, not that I can sew any time soon! LOL

Cilean

Cilean




I love the plan! Blue is an underrated colour for period outfits.

As for what she wears underneath, both ways are plausible, definitely. But judging from portraits where you can see the underskirt, it appears that when a lady wears a high necked garb, it's a doublet (with sleeves), and it's a separate item than the skirt or forepart. I haven't any Spanish examples uploaded in my Photobucket, but here is examples from Italian fashion:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bologne/lavfontanaparrot2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bergamo/moroni1560s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/bartpassarotti.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bergamo/lolmogiovanpaolo1580sbergamo.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bologne/lfontana1580nobbol.jpg

In Italy the doublet bodice was often skipped as well, and the overdress (there called "veste") buttoned up so only the partlet/collar or a bit of the chemise was visible - like here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/bronschool1560isabellauffizi.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1560sisdmdog.jpg

THAT said... although the two examples overneath are more frequent, there are some examples of what you are suggesting as well (or something similar):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bergamo/pulzone1580s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/bologne/lavfontana158090lady.jpg

(I know these are Italian examples and can't automatically be transferred to Spanish fashion. But the style depicted in these portraits are influenced by Spanish way of dressing, as was much of the fashion in Europe in the late 1500s. And I think you'll find the same is the case in Spanish portraits. Michaela de Bruce probably have the answer in her site: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/ )

amy

Can we revisit this lovely portrait again.  That skirt is obviously gored and not pleated... is there a waist band?  So smooth over the hips and that skinny skinny waist.  ( been catching up on threads today  )

gem


DonaCatalina

Quote from: Cilean on January 01, 2011, 02:34:20 AM
Quote from: operafantomet on December 30, 2010, 06:41:46 AM
I think it's a doublet bodice and not a kirtle, but agreed: wow! The details are amazing, especially the trims and the jewelry. I also love the red bows/loops with large golden aglets on her sleeves. Funky!

Looking at it, since we can't see what is under the overgown because it is closed but since the sleeves and the inner doublet is awesome I was extrapolating that the skirting inside would be the same!

Cilean

The skirt might be the same material. but not treated the same since it is based on male fashion of the same time period circa 1570

Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

amy

Quote from: Cilean on December 29, 2010, 10:19:16 PM


Check out this portrait! It is Anna of Austria and look at the diamond jewels,  as well as a Habsburg double eagle. This was done in 1616 and not in 1570's by Bartolomé González y Serrano.  I love the trim on this and I can see the slashes in the Kirtle with red trim.




OOps... Sorry.   I got so excited with the picture I completely forgot about the other conversations going on!  haha.. sorry