McMasters Partlet pattern

[Rowan MacD]

   After trying on my new Tudor dress (love it!) I realized that due to my bust size, and the fact that the corset flattens the ladies and pushes them up, I am going to have to figure out someway of camouflaging my upper chest above the bodice line.   The dress fits fine, the sleeves and bodice are comfortable and lie flat,  but I'm thinking this bodice style would look better on someone with a 'c' cup or less. The gown just does not look right to me with cleavage showing , no overhang mind you, just excess padding above the bodice line.   I don't want to look like I walked off the set of the Tudors miniseries if you get what I mean.  
The alternative is to stuff the 'excess' down further into the corset, which will be uncomfortable to say the least, since neither the corset nor myself is designed to have that much chest tucked under the boning. Thus I need to cover my bust in a somewhat period manner.    

  Nearly all the portraits show the chest is bare above the neckline, but there are some some that indicate a sheer partlet going up to the base of the throat, like this:

  http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/dauncey.jpg

  I have ordered the Lynn McMasters silk organza partlet pattern ($10.00 incl S&H).
 It looks easy enough, but the only piece I'm not sure I like is that pouffed looking stand up collar.  Can that be left off?

[ArielCallista]

I'm sure you could leave it off. It may not be HA but I think it would work just fine. It would probably look best if you had some sort of lace trim or something along the top edge. I would also just like to say the conundrum you've come across is exactly what the partlet was created for

[isabelladangelo]

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/morefamily.jpg

The second lady on the left has a neck-tied chemise on.  You may wish to try that style. 

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/holb5.jpg

There are also several sketches showing ladies wearing a fichu of sorts

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/pemberton.jpg

However, I think the above might be your best option.  Partlets could be out of black velvet or out of white linen.  It will help to cover up easily. 

[Anna Iram]

Rowen, don't hold me to this as there are ladies and gentlemen here with much more knowledge than I, but I think the Tudor partlet was a much more simple cut than the Elizabethan.

Here's a file that shows some simple sketches of the Tudor partlet. You may not even need to use a pattern as it is a very simple cut.

http://www.kimiko1.com/files/TudorWomenHndtCCaidis2010.pdf

The McMasters looks to have a great deal of gathering going on in addition to the high collar. I've not seen the pattern, but the picture looks this way. It also looks bigger and longer than a Tudor partlet.

Looking forward to seeing your gown. I love the Tudor style.


*edit* Here's another link for you:

http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_partlets.htm

[Rowan MacD]

  Thanks everybody!  I was aiming for the really mega plain partlet; no sleeves, just the neck part that would tuck down into the neckline, so that I can make the bosom sort of disappear ^_^.  I may be able to use the kimiko draft for that.  I like Ariel's suggestion for the collar of the partlet.  Perhaps a small edging of gold lace at the throat to pick up the trim color would be nice, but I'm thinking it would be covered up anyway by the necklaces I will be wearing.  I can make little wrist ruffles from matching material and elastic.
   I have been studying the portrait of the Wolsey family for ideas.   
   I can always use the McMasters pattern for my Elizabethan outfit.

[gem]

Not to confuse the issue further, but Margo Anderson has a really nice free partlet pattern on her site (click here and scroll down). I made the version with a high collar and added a box-pleated ruffle, but you should be able to make the Holbein style partlet with it, as well. If you want fewer seams, just cut it out as one large piece instead of three.

[Rowan MacD]

 Thanks Gem.  It would be nice not to have any seams (shoulders or back)  the sketch I'm using for inspiration does not show any shoulder seams and I think it would be less noticeable that way. The plainer the better.
 As I don't want to detract from the dress with a display of heavage, I also don't want the partlet to be really obvious. Sort of like a modesty panel for the bust.

[Rowan MacD]

  I downloaded the Margo Anderson Partlet pattern, have cut out and sewn the  Partlet from a very lightweight, sheer broadcloth ($2.49 yd from Hancocks), so far so good.
  I am now to point of attaching a collar (or not). 
  I was going to try to leave the collar off and try for a tiny hem trimmed with 3/8" lace, so the finished product would resemble the plain Partlets shown in some HA portraits.   
  Hubby wants the finished, standup collar with a ruffle. 
  It's for a Tudor gown circa 1530's.
  I have not seen pics of anyone wearing either one,  Which do you think looks better?

[Anna Iram]

Well...if you wanted to be HA you'd do that which pleaseth your husband. 

I personally like the look of a very simple partlet with a Tudor gown, but the collar doses give it a nice feminine touch.

[Rowan MacD]

   I'll do the collar for this one then to keep hubby happy.  I have plenty of leftover broadcloth for another couple of Partlets, so I can still whip up a plainer one.  This one only took me about 2 hours so far, it shall be undecorated since I will be wearing jewelry over it, so I will use a tiny edge of lace on the ruffle. 
   I had already have a 'Cassandra' brooch from Sapphire and Sage and I just happened to have about 30" of pearl and brass rosary chain lying about from a different project so, a little work with my jewelery tools and Viola, a set of bodice jewelry is done. 

   P.S.  Savings alert!  Here in Omaha there is a little flea market open every Sunday just off L street.   Next door is a concession store that sells knock off designer purses and Jewelry. I picked up 2 of those long glass pearl necklaces for $6.00 strand.  Beats the heck out of the minimum $10 (Walmart) to $30 at the dept stores.
   

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

My Profile photo, Rowan.

The Silk Organza Partlet is the Lynn McMasters pattern as is the Coronet of the French Hood.

[operafantomet]

Oh, how lovely to see a big version of that photo, after viewing the tiny one for so long. You look gorgeous, m'lady!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Thank you, opera! 

[Rowan MacD]

  OK. That settles it,  the silk organza pattern is my next project.  Love it.
   I have finished the Partlet (the free pattern) and a set of elastic cuffs from the same sheer cotton to simulate a chemise without actually wearing all that extra material. 
   I just finished a modesty panel for my new black velveteen gown and sewed a 2" square of double layered velveteen into the 'V' below the back  lacings while I was doing it.  For some reason the top of the back seam was not re enforced in any way, and that is the one most likely to get pulled apart accidentally while getting into and out of the dress.
   Almost ready for this weekend.  Faire season starts for us on May Day!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Ouch Rpwan! The makers of your gown should have taken that into consideration. Watch for stress in the fabric as you wear it!