News:

Welcome to the Renaissancefestival.com Forums!  Please post an introduction after signing up!

For an updated map of Ren Fests check out The Ren List at http://www.therenlist.com!

The Chat server is now running again, just select chat on the menu!

Main Menu

Enlarging measurements on patterns..?

Started by Scotty Hunter, April 30, 2011, 05:52:42 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Scotty Hunter

I shouldn't even be asking this because I have about as much sewing skill as I have self control when it comes to food... but I was curious to know how easy/hard it would be to enlarge the measurements on a Simplicity or McCalls pattern?

Some of the patterns of interest mention "Sizes S to XL" -- I'm a half-ton more than XL size, so would need to have something bigger.

Can the patterns be adjusted to larger sizes??  Or do they say "S to XL" for a good reason?

Would it only be a matter of adding an inch or two to each premeasured area?  Or is there much more involved than that?  ???
~May the leaves of your life-tree never turn brown.~

Kate XXXXXX

You can scale up an XL to a XXL or even a XXXL with care...  But the scaling isn't just a matter of adding a bit all round.  You have to do it proportionally.  Look at where the points are on the pattern pieces and measure the distance between the points.  Lay your ruler along the line of points and add your new size or two.  Join up the dots - keeping lines and curves correct and crossing where they do on the original.

Enlarging the pattern is more a matter of arithmetic and being able to use a ruler and a French curve combined with a pencil than sewing.  The sewing only starts when you have sorted the pattern out!   ;)

If you are larger than a B cup, you'll also need to know about taking an Upper Bust measurement to determine your basic pattern size, and adjusting for a full bust.  There are several good explanations on the 'net about this, but think about whether or not you want to go this far first.  On the other hand, you are fairly new to this, and you might as well learn how to do it right before you get into bad habits!   ;D ;D

Rani Zemirah

#2
Remember, also, that lots of patterns come in a couple of different size groups.  When you look in the drawer for the pattern, the smaller size envelopes will usually be in the front of that section, and the larger sizes directly behind those, in the back of that particular pattern's drawer "section".  Look for the largest sizes they have before you settle for the smaller ones, and if you grab the wrong one by mistake then most stores will let you exchange it, as long as it hasn't been cut yet.  
Rani - Fire Goddess

Aut disce... aut discede

Lady Rebecca

The way that I tend to look at it is to look on the back of the pattern envelope, and see how many sizes bigger you would be than the largest size in the pattern (such as, waist measurement is 6" larger than largest size, and there is a 2" difference between each size, so therefore, you are three sizes larger than the largest size). Then, when you cut out a pattern, you usually will see all the lines of the different sizes on that piece. Cut it out so that you can see all the lines, and measure the difference between the lines (it will usually be just about equal between each size). Then multiply that difference by three (or however many sizes larger you are), and draw your lines that much farther out on a new piece of paper (I use taped together pieces of tissue paper). And, ta-da! You have your new pattern. From there, make a mock-up of your garment in muslin (or other excess fabric you have laying around and don't care about) and see how it fits, and adjust from there.

I hope that's at least somewhat clear on the screen. It made sense in my head!

Dinobabe

The big three patterns are usually larger than what you actually need.  So lay the pattern against your body to see how close it is.  The cover measurements usually say I'm a 16 but that is WAY too big!! ;)
Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

Scotty Hunter

Great replies, as usual. Thanks all.  Good point Kate about wanting to learn the good habits before falling into bad. lol. I'm a blank canvas right now, so we'll see what comes.  And yep Rebecca, made perfect sense! Thanks.

I'm going to TRY my hand at something extra simple... like a pillowcase. :D Pillowcases look harmless.

Actually, I was going to try some equally simple (at least in theory) shirts and skirts. Nothing fancy.. yet. But let's see if I can figure out how to enlarge patterns and sew first, lol, then go from there. Baby steps.

Working from home I have MORE than enough time on my hands to basically hand-sitch the garb for an entire city worth of people, course if I knew how to design and sew I'd be doing well. Not sure yet if I really want to tackle a sewing machine... me and those machines have a hate/hate relationship. No love there at all.  :-\  Primitive is the way to go for me. lol. Wonder if I can dig up a bone needle, or maybe a porcupine needle.  :D Maybe not THAT primitive, but we'll see.

Stand by for future threads of me complaining that I poked myself or ripped something where it shouldnt have been.  ::)
~May the leaves of your life-tree never turn brown.~

ArielCallista

Skirts can be just as harmless as pillowcases depending on the type of skirt...easiest thing to do is get a few years of fabric (longer than your hip measurement, the more so the more gathered looking itll be) sew the two ends together so it makes a tube. On the top edge of the tube fold over and sew down making a channel for your drawstring or elastic (up to you, if you do drawstring you'll have to clip a hole fot the ends to come thru) put it on and have someone help you cut off the extra from the hem so it is the length you want it to be plus an inch (cuz the fabric you buy will prolly be too wide unless you're like 6ft tall like me) then fold the hem up and sew it down....ta da! super easy skirt :)
Things are shaping up to be...
Pretty. Odd.

LadyStitch

One of the best things I ever learned was how to do a proper full bust adjustment, followed closely by a full abdomen adjustment. 
It is very hard to find large size patterns that won't make you look like you are wearing a circus tent, girl or guy. 
The way I first learned was, like the other's said, looking at the pattern and seeing where the multisizes get larger, and add room there.

I can say learning to alter patterns to make them fit properly is one of the most difficult, but most rewarding aspects. I wish you luck.
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

Excellent comments, Ladies. Great advice.

Worth their weight in Gold, the Margo Anderson Pattern collectionshttp://www.margospatterns.com/ go from a size 2 to size 30. For women come in all shapes, heights, and sizes. One can be small on top, but fuller on the bottom;or vice versa.

It also boils down to what looks best for the body type ae well.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde