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What country/period of time is this representative of?

Started by Brenna, May 26, 2011, 12:48:08 PM

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Brenna



Is this "authentic" or accurate in any way? In what ways is it flawed? Would someone have worn a dress such as this or is it more commercial/fantasy/movie based?

isabelladangelo


isabelladangelo

Okay, based on the picture you sent, they are trying for two very separate looks in one dress.  One is the 11th century "angel sleeve" dress; the other is the late 15th c "Tudor" dress. 

11th C: http://www.sempstress.org/2011/11th-century-german-costume-from-kohler/

15th c: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp74a.jpg

http://armstreet.com/store/clothes/medieval-long-flax-linen-lady-tunic <- this is earlier than the late 11c drawing above but it is more period in style if that is what you are going for

Brenna


Devangelon

Besides the zipper in the back, and possibly the color (Not sure if they had pinks back then), it looks fine to me. Very medieval...ish. *Gets out costuming book*..

..Yes...It is historically accurate...kinda of..

There are records of women wearing a thing called a "Cote-hardie". This garment, looks like it went over a chemise with rather tight fitting sleeves.

"Adopted for wear for women only after 1387, women's houppelandes reached their fullest development in the 1400's. The english version of the cote-hardie for women had a low, round neckline and sleeves ending at the elbow, with dangling lappet falling from behind the elbow. (See figure 6.7) French styles of this garment appear to have been garments for outdoors. Their exact form is unclear. The Italian houppeland seems to have been like that of the English."

THe is a direct quote from the book I used in college for historical costuming. Its called, "Survey of Historic Costume" By Phyllis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank. I highly recommend it.

Oh, Here is the picture of Figure 6.7.


isabelladangelo

...Pink is very period.  They've had pink as long as they have had red. The Romans had pink.  They Egyptians very much had pink.   I really don't comprehend why this myth is still around.   

Also, it's not a cotehardi -ie Gothic fitted gown.  It's an attempt at an 11th C Saxon gown with 15th C trim placement and other influences.  The cotehardi -which has been proven to be a term used in period only for a specific mens winter coat but has been used in re-enacting circles for any fitted garment - is a 14th/early 15th c garment. 

DonaCatalina

This looks like a version of 14th century Frank/Anglo/Norman cotehardie.
The sleeves varied from year to year on the outer gown.
Especially in the Court of Burgundy they became very elaborate. But a tight sleeved kirtle would have been worn under the open sleeved cotehardie.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Devangelon

Found this! http://armstreet.com/store/clothes/medieval-dress-with-chemise-lady-of-heart

I personally like it. And its very close to what they are wearing in the picture from the book I posted.

But honestly...Wear what you like. :) Unless you are worried it won't fit in for a cast thing or something. But if you like it and are comfy in it, go ahead and wear it. :)

isabelladangelo

Search "bliaut" in google for other similar items.  It's a late 11thc well into the 12th c garment.   A Gothic Fitted Gown is constructed very differently from the bliaut and looks very different on a person.   

isabelladangelo

Just to beat the whole "pink is not period" idea out of anyone's head every again, the following is from 1135 A D:
http://www.wga.hu/art/zgothic/miniatur/1101-150/07e_1100.jpg

That is very pink with red for contrast so no one can claim it's "just faded".   Pink has always been around.

Devangelon

But its also a religious painting. Gotta take that into consideration as well.

isabelladangelo

Quote from: Devangelon on May 26, 2011, 04:55:24 PM
But its also a religious painting. Gotta take that into consideration as well.

No, you honestly don't when it comes to colors.  It's an illumination.  All the dyes used in illuminations, paintings, and for actual dye were the same.  If they had the color for one thing, they had it for another.   There is a lady that has done extensive research on the subject of dyes from the 14th century and earlier. 

You can see a wide variety of pinks in the lower left hand corner.  All of the dyes she has used are based on either plants available in Northern Europe or actual period recipes dating from the 14th c or earlier.  All pink is, as I stated earlier, is a weaker form of red.  It's not difficult -at all- to achieve with madder; the most commonly used dye through most of history. 

operafantomet

Quote from: isabelladangelo on May 26, 2011, 01:59:14 PM
...Pink is very period.  They've had pink as long as they have had red. The Romans had pink.  They Egyptians very much had pink.   I really don't comprehend why this myth is still around.   

I agree, it gets me every time. I think part of the problem is that pink was seldom singled out as an own colour, with an own name, like today. Rather, it was seen as various red shades, and therefore called crimson or whatever other name the red dye might have. In effect a fabric could be pink, as we perceive pink today, but it was referred to by its "red" name.

One example is the 1543 portrait of Eleonora di Toledo, which is depicted in a pink dress with golden bands (you know this all too well, Isabella, as you've made a lovely replica of it). To our modern eye it is pink, but a period description of the outfit (if it indeed is the same) describes it as a crimson dress with gold bands. Our flaw is that we read "crimson" as as red, while it could be everything from bright pink or wine red in period times. So to get to the point: yes, pink is perfectly period, though more pastel like shade would be perceived as less expensive than an intense colour. The paler the shade, the later the fabric was dipped into the dye batch, and the sooner it would fade. The first batch, getting the most intense colours, usually lasted longer and was way more expensive.

As for the style of the dress... I leave that to the experts. It's out of my period, I'm afraid.

The Eleonora portrait I referred to, painted by Bronzino in 1543:

arbcoind

This dress is available from Pyramid Collection.  They call it "Cour D'Arthur Dress" and it sells for $120.  I seriously considered purchasing it but none of my faire accessories match it.

Gina

DonaCatalina

Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess