Need input on blackwork and jacobean embroidery

[cymberrain]

Hello Everyone, I am an avid embroiderer who loves to sit and work on highly intricate pieces for hours on end (I know, I'm odd :p) A friend who makes period dresses told me recently that I should try my hand at some blackwork and jacobean embroidery as there are not as many people who do hand work anymore and it is a niche I would fit into well.
My problem is I just dont know where to start. So I thought I would turn to the experts.
What exact date should I be aiming for when it comes to styles? My best guess is between 1580-1620 but I'm not sure.
Which things do you think would be best for me to start out with: cuffs, a coif. a partlet?
DO you think people would rather see an authentic design done up or an original design that uses period motifs?
Lastly, would it be best to make all three pieces in matched sets?
I really am very interested in this and already have purchased Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 4, and I have a nice hunk of linen and silk threads. I am just hesitating now because I want to do this right.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

[DonaCatalina]

Blackwork goes back to the 13th century. The modern world mostly knows blackwork or scarletwork a(also called Spanish work) embroidery as it appears on portraits of Henry VIII and his wives.

Some period designs were very intricate and dense. If you are considering these items for sale, I would suggest that you would never recoup the cost in time and a simplified version would be best. I do simplified versions on my chemises as well as my husband's shirts.
Cuffs and collars did appear in portraits to have some of the same elements, but most were not exact matches. Still, modern sensibilities expect collars and wrist cuffs to match.

[cymberrain]

Thank you so much for your answer DonaCatalina. I am aware of how dense the patterns can be and have researched it quite a bit, although I am sure I have plenty of research to go. I am just not familiar with what is used most often in recreating period looks. My first inclination was to make a coif in the jacobean style with the blackwork innards as I have seen in a few pieces from that period. I hesitated though as I am not sure that would be the best piece to start out with. I do wish to sell my work but I am not stressed to sell it. I have a thriving dyeing business and stitching is my comfort. Although I do need to justify it too a point I am interested in this enough to not mind a bit of wasted time.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

This site is a GO-TO for Blackwork ideas. Be sure to bookmark it.http://www.blackworkarchives.com/bw_variations.html

I have a file of designs I want to put ona  disk to use once I get enough money saved up for a machine tht i can do these with.

[isabelladangelo]

There are several extant blackworked coifs.  http://www.larsdatter.com/blackwork.htm  (Scroll down to headwear)

Jacobean embroidery -as the name suggests, was introduced mostly in the post Elizabethan period.   There are some indications it started during Elizabeth's Reign, but it's a mostly 17th C style embroidery.   

I'll try to post more later with some books and other examples.

[isabelladangelo]

Some additional info:

http://www.prettyimpressivestuff.com/blackwork.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Blackwork-Mary-Gostelow/dp/0486401782/ref=pd_sim_b_6  <-my fav blackwork book

Typically, if the cuff was embroidered, so was the rest of the sleeve:

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam.htm

[cymberrain]

Thank you so much for the links. I want to do this correctly. I did find some great 16th century pattern books to work with also. I LOVE doing blackwork alone also.

[operafantomet]

Hello Everyone, I am an avid embroiderer who loves to sit and work on highly intricate pieces for hours on end (I know, I'm odd :p) A friend who makes period dresses told me recently that I should try my hand at some blackwork and jacobean embroidery as there are not as many people who do hand work anymore and it is a niche I would fit into well.
My problem is I just dont know where to start. So I thought I would turn to the experts.
What exact date should I be aiming for when it comes to styles? My best guess is between 1580-1620 but I'm not sure.
Which things do you think would be best for me to start out with: cuffs, a coif. a partlet?
DO you think people would rather see an authentic design done up or an original design that uses period motifs?

I totally second the idea of Jacobean jackets. But if you want more ideas, my grandmother and I am currently working on a blackworked Italian chemise. It's loosely based on the one on page 112 in POF 4. I'm doing the pattern transfer and the sewing, while my grandmother is doing the embroidery. Especially the sleeves has lot of embroidery. She's done wonders so far! If you like working on small details, an embroidered chemise is a fun project.



As for embroidery design, it was common in period work to pick motifs from published books on the topic, and mix and match at will. Sometimes it was based on what the motif symbolized. For the chemise overneath there are two motifs, one with vine, pomegranate and acorns, and the other with rose, pansy and fleur-de-lis. Mose of these symbolize fertility, love and chastity, the perfect values for a bride or a wife.

The book "Private lives in Renaissance Venice" has an interesting chapter about embroidery and lace making; how it became fashionable for fine ladies to master it in the late 16th century, and how several books with patterns were published. One is called "Exemplar of Embroidery" by Giovanni Antonio Tagliente. Not sure how much of it is available/online, but I've seen a cute snail embroidery based on his pattern, and that snail occurs in English books as well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rosettastones/3466516669/

I haven't studied Jacobean jackets, but I would assume the use of motifs somewhat corresponded with what's seen in Italy in terms of symbolism. There seems to be a lot of different flowers used, kinda embraced by the stem in circle patterns. Also, various animals and berries also seems to show up ever so often. Acorn, rose and cornflower seems to have been very popular.

[cymberrain]

What a gorgeous piece! I love the idea of the different motifs having meaning to them. It makes it so special. The fact that your grandmother and you are doing this project together gives it even more meaning. A piece to be cherished. The links are great, thank you. I keep getting lost in all this research
I have several ideas swimming in my head now. I hope I can narrow them down to one thing!

[Cilean]

I know this thread has been well dead for a bit, but people are always asking so I thought I would mention that Lady Maerwynn has put up some of her blackwork for Embroidery Machines and my next payday, I will be adding her wonderful designs to my collection.  If you have not seen this please check out:

http://ladymaerwynn.com/ProdcutCDp1.htm

Yes the make you spend money fairy is here again!! 

Cilean