Sleeve Ideas

[Orphena]

Hello seamstresses and tailors!

Iam looking for a SIMPLE sleeeve idea. Allow me to give you a better idea of what I am working with. I have a gown http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Casa%20Loma%202007/IMG_0264.jpg  with several different sets of foreparts/stomachers/sleeves  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Casa%20Loma%202008/aIMG_2155.jpg  so that I can mix & match. Many of my sets are reversable.

I am working on a new set, made with a delicious green on one side, and burgundy on the other side, and would like to make sleeves so that you can see both fabrics, preferring them to be reversible, similar to these:   http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Casa%20Loma/?action=view&current=LadyO3.jpg

Any ideas? I am looking for simple, they do not need to be 100% period accurate, as I doboth Tudor and Elizabethan stuff, and like variety. My sleeves are all detachable.

Thanks!

[DonaCatalina]

I usually have to draft my own sleeves on the backs of wrapping paper. Plaid Christmas paper works best because it gives you a grid.
It sounds like you are interested in sleeves like these.

[isabelladangelo]

There are two very basic sleeve designs that come to mind.   The basic trapezoid -the width of your upper arm across the top, the width of your wrist across the bottom, about 20~22" on the sides for length.   

The other is the bell shape - still the width of your upper arm across the top, but take a 36" string and attach a pencil to the end.  tack the other end of the string about 8" above the upper arm line, draw a quarter circle where your wrist would be.  Draw lines connecting the quarter circle to the upper arm line.

[gem]

SQUEE!!!! Orphena's back!!

Sorry. Will actually go read your message now, Shari. Just had to get that out of my system. Ahem.  

***
ETA: What about the classic Tudor sleeve, with the big bell oversleeve and the false undersleeve + puffs:



(They wouldn't need to be that huge; they were just especially visible in that portrait.)

You could make each separate piece reversible (the top/bell part, and the false undersleeve), and then switch them up. Heck, you could also go with four fabrics if you wanted to be crazy versatile (two on the top and two on the undersleeves)! My first thought was that you'd have to have a real chemise to puff through a reversible undersleeve, but I actually think you could find a way to sandwich the puffs between the layers so they're visible from both sides.

Sometimes you see a contrast fabric used for the turnback parts of the bells, too (the ones above are fur, but it's hard to see that at first):



Typically the sleeves on Tudor gowns match the body of the dress, but since you're not concerned with total historical accuracy, you don't need to worry about that!

[Orphena]

Thanks for the replies, ladies!

Dona Catalina, I draft most of my patterns as well! The picture that you showed- is that an open sleeve? Is that one piece that forms the sleeve, or would you cut 2 and sew them together?

Isabella - Yes, the third picture that I posted is a basic trapezoid - it is simple to make, and easy to reverse- it also shows off both fabrics, which I like. The bell design that you speak of - is that similar in shape to the first picture I posted? I could use a little more explanation of the shape if I have misunderstood, if you would be so kind!

Gem- darling I missed you! Despite what I said about not needing to be completely historically accurate, I always strive to have things look somewaht historically accurate. I DO wear all the peices - chemise, corset, etc, I am just less likely to do as much reseach into finding a portrait to justify my self drafted patterns! I have "oversleeves" in the fabric of my gown, with a green inset that I can use (refer to first picture), but am looking for some easy wow factor that wont require slashing, or endless fiddling. Both fabrics are velvet, so they have a lot of body, but I don't want to die of heat exhaustion either! Once I get settled back here on the board, I may take pictures of the fabric - but one thing at a time!

[isabelladangelo]

http://jwilson.coe.uga.edu/emt725/Isos.Trpzd/image9.gif

This shape but with a curve on the bottom is the bell shape.  :-)  Very simple, but works well for a wide range of eras.

[Orphena]

Ok, I have spent several days thinking about these sleeves...

A trapezoid - either cuffed at the bottom,or belled - will really only show the 2 different fabrics near the wrist - I was hoping for more contrast visible than that! I took a look at my existing trapezoid sleeves, and realized that you see the contrast of the shirt peeking through, but not the other fabric.

Stealing a peek at Dona Catalin's picture - I notice the hanging sleeves - you can see both fabrics - the inside and the outside. While it is not a tudor look, (As Gem reminded me - most tudor sleeves match the gown!) I DO like it - but it means making both a hanging sleeve, and an inner sleeve - unless I go with just the chemise - which would be nice in hot weather.

If I were to make "inner" sleeves (as well as hanging ones) - do they have to go all the way up?

Since my sleeves are detachable - should I attatch the hanging sleeve directly to the inner sleeve?

Am I making any sense?  Should I just give up this mad quest, and make non reversable sleeves? 

[Orphena]

Here is a picture of my reversable "trapezoid" sleeves  -

[Orphena]

Here are the fabrics I am working with, one picture with flash, one without ... and I managed to get back into my photobucket account to upload them!

[isabelladangelo]

If you make the bell shaped sleeves, you can pin them back up to the elbow -as they did in the early Tudor era.   This would show both fabrics.   Like this:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Mary1.jpg

[DonaCatalina]

Ok, I have spent several days thinking about these sleeves...

If I were to make "inner" sleeves (as well as hanging ones) - do they have to go all the way up?
They will be able to stay at and not weigh down on the wrist as much.

Since my sleeves are detachable - should I attatch the hanging sleeve directly to the inner sleeve?
The outer hanging sleeve would probably be better attached to the gown. Otherwise the weight of two sleeves will be continually pulling them loose.
Am I making any sense?  Should I just give up this mad quest, and make non reversable sleeves?  
I wouldn't give up on it just yet. But I don't think the look you're wanting is Tudor or even Henrician.

[gem]

When I'm looking for inspiration for a project like this, I like to scroll through the galleries at Featured Attyre and the Showcase at the Realm of Venus. You can't really search specifically for what you're looking for, but you can definitely find how people have done different sorts of sleeves &c. (I've been over there a lot this summer looking at headpieces--beaded cauls & hair jewelry, etc.)

So here are just a few links to interesting sleeves; maybe they'll help you get ideas!

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2010/Carol.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2009/Noelle-Holly.htm
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2004/Sorcha.htm
http://www.festiveattyre.com/feature/yr5/week216.html
http://www.festiveattyre.com/feature/yr4/week128.html

Have fun!