corset boning

[Betty Munro]

I agree, the duct ties seem just a little less stiff.  Still perfectly effective, but a little easier to cut.

[Lady Gryphon]

I am finishing up a test run of a corset from the Corset maker, and since I am so long waisted and have a tummy to boot.  I'm going to go back in and eliminate the busk and Bone place boning in the front.  It won't look correct on the test run, but once I figure out all the tricks, the next one should work perfect. 

I have learned a lot from everyone on this thread, Making my first Stays from the generator was much easier once I read through everyone's thoughts and ideas.  Thank you

[Betty Munro]

jackrocks, did I miss the finished corset photo?
Lady Gryphon, please post pics.
I'm just dying to see some other newbies work.  You might not think it is good enough, but believe me it will inspire others to try too. 

[Lady Gryphon]

I haven't finished the hand stitching yet, but will try to get finished with it this weekend.  If I'm lucky and get the finish work nice it will be reversable if I want.  I made 4 layers, the inner layer has all the boning and casements for them, the Stitch lines I had to draw, and the rest, then I used a couple of pieces of nicer material for the "Nice" sides. 

I've been sewing a good part of my life, just never made anything from the 17th century.  It's taken me many hours of research and letters to a couple very nice and helpful forum members to get me through this.  Thank you Ladies, you know who you are.

Photo's to follow as soon as I get it finished.

[jackrocks]

we have been camping. and my school semester just started back up (as well as my four kids!) so its been really busy. We went to fair on Saturday, the bodice looked good, I thought. There are some things I plan to change for the next one....I think it was a bit too tall....bc when I sat down, the top almost covered my chemise neckline. I need to shorten the back center sides, bc the tightest I could get it laced, wasnt tight enough...I could still see a gap in the front when I looked down, between my chemise and my bodice. Also, could not get it tight enough to pop "the girls" up, like I wanted to. But I think it looked good.

When we get home from camping, I will post some pics of us. I finished my husbands waistcoat buttonholes at 12 noon Saturday:) lol and we left about 130.

[Betty Munro]

I didn't intend to sound so demanding.    just begging, and letting you know there is interest in your success.  Camping and faire and 4 kids.  Sounds quite wonderful if not very busy!!!

[jackrocks]

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.107951425979532.13317.100002940258423&l=e55ff45b61&type=1

certainly not as fancy as most here.....but finished and wearable, all the same!:)


The only issue I had with my bodice is that it seemed a little bit "tall"...as when I would sit down, the top came up over my chemise. The next one, I will make shorter in the back, as I could not lace it tight enough.....there was still a gap between the chemise and bodice....but it held up fine, no slipping or anything.


I have material to start a new one...I wonder...a family member donated a pile of cable ties...the smaller ones, to me...I wondered if I could use those as boning...there have to be about 40, maybe 50 of them. I know they arent as sturdy as the larger ones, but they are stiff, and it seems like with so many of them, maybe they would work?

[Butch]

You can always double them up, and use two in every channel.

[operafantomet]

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.107951425979532.13317.100002940258423&l=e55ff45b61&type=1

The only issue I had with my bodice is that it seemed a little bit "tall"...as when I would sit down, the top came up over my chemise. The next one, I will make shorter in the back, as I could not lace it tight enough.....there was still a gap between the chemise and bodice....but it held up fine, no slipping or anything.

It's hard to tell because of your arm, but the bodice seems quite long over the hips. That would definitely participate in pushing it up when sitting. You could probably drop 2-3 inches there, while keeping the length in front and eventually also in the back. No matter what style you're going for, it'll be both historically advisable and also more comfortable to you to make the bodice higher in the side waist. You see how high these bodices really are cut over the hips? It's only the front that is long:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1555douai.jpg

http://onthetudortrail.com/Blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Elizabeth.jpg

http://www.marileecody.com/isabel.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/donnacremona.jpg


ETA: I second Butch's advice on using double of the cable ties, if they're small/narrow. I use rigilene (false whalebone) for most of my bodices, and when I want them to be a bit more sturdy, I use double layers. It works like a dream, and I'm sure it'll be similar with the cable ties. They remind quite a bit in velocity.

ETA 2: I know that historical accuracy isn't the goal of every single person on this world. I have lots of love for non-H/A outfits as well! But often there's a reason why they did stuff the way they did, and in this case comfort (as well as optical illusion of slim torsos) made them construct the bodices as they did. When borrowing the best of pure looks one should borrow the best of their comfort as well - if that makes sense.

[Betty Munro]

Thanks for the pictures operafantomet!
It looks like the donnacremona portrait has her in a bodice that is too big also. 

Nice work on your first bodice jackrocks!  It does look like it is too big for you.  Also, you'll be more comfortable (and have a more slimming sillouette) if you cut up higher over the hips.  It certainly is an excellent starting point and you can modify this pattern to make generation #2 even better!

I think as long as the cable ties are long enough, you can use thinner ones and double up.

Happy corseting!!!   

[jackrocks]

so, if I modify my pattern to sit about 2 inches higher on the sides, and shorten the back edges about 2 inches or so (so that I can lace it tighter), would those moves assist in a more "push up" effect in the front? (bc that is what I would like)

How short is too short on the sides? Should you be able to see the tucked in chemise from the sides, or should it still be long enough to cover that? do you think I should alter the pattern so that the top is a bit lower, as well?

I think my next one I will sew by hand, at least most of it. It will take longer, but I feel like I can be more precise about the stitches when I do it that way. Plus, I like to hand sew when Im not in a super hurry:)


thanks!!!

[Betty Munro]

I don't think the front top needs to be lower, you want to push up, not spill over. 
It will help a LOT to make it tighter.  Are you taking off 2" from each side, or just 1" on each side?  I think 4" total is a good start, you might be surprised how much squish factor there is. 

If you don't want your chemise to show between your corset and outer skirt, (it shouldn't if it is worn under your skirt) then you have to take into account where your waistband is to determine how far up you can cut away at the hips.  Put your skirt and corset back on and pin where you want to make changes on the sides.

I wish there was a way to not have to finish a bodice to really know how it is going to fit, but they really have to be laced tight to know ... and I don't know any other way to do that then to finish it.

[jackrocks]

thanks Betty, you guys have been so much help:) Not having owned or worn a corset/bodice before, I wasnt sure about fitting it. I got scared about taking off too much fabric, and just wrapping it around me to check for fit couldnt really show me much, other than that it wasnt too small, YKWIM?

I think I will take about 2 inches off EACH side....bc on my current one, the back sides actually meet.....so I think 2 inches off each side would be reasonable.