Fabric Choices

[Orphena]

Good day and greetings! The time has come that I must do a little bit of upgrades to my ensemble, and I am seeking advice on fabric choices. I tend to look at Fabricland (The Canadian equivalent of Joann's) to see what is on sale, and suitable in color, heft, and texture, but lately there is not much available. I may go down the route of ordering online, at which time I will be checking out the online stores listed near the top of the forum.

Corset – although I made a new corset just this past spring, I made a tactical error and chose a white denim. I believed it to be cotton, but for some reason, it is not as strong as I would expect denim to be – my steel boning has worn through in several places, and I wore the corset for all of 10 days this summer. Common choices seem to be coutil (which is too expensive for me), cotton duck (which Fabricland does not carry), Shoe canvas (Which I can get, but find... ugly), and linen canvas – which I have never seen here (but haven't looked either). I have seen cotton twill, but have a few reservations due to the denim issue. So – what do you prefer, and why? Please note – this is a true under garment for me – I don't mind natural colour, but would actually prefer white – I know not HA, but I do a "dress a Lady" show, and my farthingale is white (Or was, before the mud!), and white simply looks better – although, it DOES show the dirt far faster, which may help convince me that a natural tone is better.

Tudor / Elizabethan Gown – I think it is time I made a new gown, and am wondering about linen – specifically Canvas Weight linen – is it going to be too rough? Will it still provide a nice drape? Might it lower my class? (I prefer the noble look, personally). I prefer solid fabric rather than pattern, and am thinking a nice deep emerald green. Currently the gown I wear is a gold / mustard tone (as in my profile picture), and would like to be able to mix and match my various foreparts etc. in with the new gown. As many of our events are in HOT summer weather, I am hoping that linen would be an appropriate choice. If not - what else can you recommend?

1750s Pirate Polonaise – currently I have a blue gown – which I LOVE – but would like an alternate choice – either in a similar color, but different fabric (linen again?), or a completely different color. Currently my polonaise is made with a fabric that has a sheen to it – it reminds me of a taffeta in heft – quite light, but still able to make lovely body in the back. Color and fabric ideas would be much appreciated!

The problem I most frequently have is the fact that we do 2 or 3 day events, and the weather plays havoc – either it is so hot that I don't smell too sweet by the end of day 1, or it pours rain, and the gown may not dry before day 2. I always wear a fresh chemise, but do not have energy to wash my gown at the end of a long day.

[DonaCatalina]

For gowns my personal preference leans towards cotton jacquard or cotton brocatelle. Italian works wonderfully with pre-1500 style gowns. But for post-1500 gowns it does better for middle class garb.
I'm not sure what type of gown you want so I can't be more specific.

[isabelladangelo]

For a pair of bodies, I use canvas.  However, I use it as the inner layer so I don't care what it looks like.  It could be tie dye in florescent yellow and green and it wouldn't matter.  As long as it didn't show through the fashion layer or the lining.  Try fabric.com for fabrics.

For a noble gown -tropical weight wool.  I know people cringe when they hear wool but it's honestly the best.  Unless the linen is embroidered, it probably wasn't used as an outer (fashion) fabric; only a lining.  Lightweight silks are also an option.

For the 1700's gown - for H/a -which I don't think you are going for- they didn't have polonaise until the late 1770's.  It was popular in the 1780's.  If you are going for the latter era, blue and white were a common color combo as well as pink and green.   For the earlier 1750's, gowns were done in popular brocade prints.  Colors were pretty much whatever you wanted -what is important in the 18th c is the type of print. 

[gem]

Linen canvas will be too heavy and stiff for a gown. It won't drape at all. It would make a beautiful corset, however. You don't want to go with a twill weave (like your denim) for corsetry, as you've discovered. Twill will stretch as it's worn, and that may be contributing to the wear and tear you're noticing.

For the body of the gown, I'm with Isabella--wool would be beautiful. You want to think worsteds, like the wool of a fine man's tailored suit--something like crepe or tricotine or a tropical weight. I'm also very partial to wool flannel, but it has a little fuzziness to the texture that you might not like in a noble ensemble. I know Fashion Fabrics Club carries a lot of wools at reasonable prices, but I don't know if they ship to Canada. I wonder if you might have better luck dealing directly with someone on ebay or etsy.

I made my latest gown from cotton-blend damask tablecloths I picked up from Penney's, and it's working *splendidly!* The fabric is cool enough for warm weather (I debuted it on a day in the 90s--that's stupidly hot, for you Celsius folks--and was perfectly comfortable without sleeves), and highly resistant to soil and stains (dusty dog pawprints brushed right off as if they hadn't happened--yay tablecloth!!). That might be an option for you--the fabric ended up running right around $6/yard--bargain!! Also, the tablecloths are made to wash up easily and come out wrinkle-free and beautiful, which would be a good user-friendly choice for you.

Since you've expressed concern about the care of your garments, inclement weather, etc... I'd probably start by thinking about the functionality and wearability of the pieces, and plan your ensemble for what will be easy to care for and still look amazing in all weather. I'll think about this and see what ideas occur to me!

[Lady Rebecca]

I really like cotton canvas/duck for corsets. I know Joanns sells theirs online, too - that might be a good option for you. My ren corset is actually a reversible corset made out of one of the printed canvases that Joanns sells in the outdoor section, with the reverse just being a really sturdy pink with white dotted fabric that I found on clearance. My guess is the pink is a cotton/poly blend, but I haven't had any breathability issues with it.

I also think linen will look too middle class for a gown. My noble is made out of cotton velveteen, which I really like, but it's not exactly lightweight. 

For the polonaise (I think you mean 1770s or 80s?), linen could work. Mine is made out of a floral printed cotton, but that wouldn't really do for a pirate. You probably don't want to spring for silks, but should still stay with natural fibers for ease of use. Can you find a nice striped cotton, in a red and white or white and blue, or even black and white? Any of those would look nice and piratey, as well as being accurate. And pretty.

[operafantomet]

I agree with others, linen and noble is not a good match. As Isabella wrote, linen was hardly used for outer clothes at all, it was an underwear thing. Main reason is that the goal was smooth and/or ornamental surfaces, and glowing colours. Linen, slubby silks and coarse wool was cheap(er), and if going for noble you don't wanna look cheap!

As others have suggested, light-weight wools like those used in man's suits are comfy, easy to deal with and durable. However, they might also be expensive. If you are on a budged, I suggest looking into tablecloths and upholstery fabrics of natural fibres (especially nice brocades and damasks), quality sateen bed linens, and other fabrics meant for the home. Usually you'll get many yards/meters for a fair price, and the patterns are often more suited for historical clothing than what you'd find in fabric shops.

Remember also that Ikea has a lot of fabrics. It varies with seasons etc. what they have, but I've done some bargains there. They have nice floral prints taken from French 18th century archives which many has made Rococo dresses of. They have CHEAP basic unbleached cotton which, if washed hard, is very good for lining corsets and bodices. Right now they have a lot of stripy fabrics, which is very good for Polonaise style. If you have an Ikea near where you live, step by and see what they have.

Dresses I've made out of curtains/upholstery/bed linens:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/bronzino.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/peacock.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/venetian.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/toiledejouy.html
http://aneafiles.webs.com/wishing.html

[Betty Munro]

Garb from bedlinens & things ... Wow!

[Adriana Rose]

Some of my favorite skirts are ones that I have made out of sheets.

[Orphena]

Thanks for your replies!

Ok - so I bought a meter of cotton canvas, and have 2 corsets in the making - one I will do with my current steel boning, and I am going to do one with cable ties - I have used them for several different projects - and although I buy the heavy duty ones, I am always inclined to double them up - does anyone else put 2 in each channel, or am I just being paranoid?

I will keep my linen buying for shirts, or perhaps a pirate dress down the road - technically I usually end up being part of the "village" (Ok, I play the chanlder's wife - and yes, I sing the song!), but I like the idea of stripes, so will watch for some. Actually there is some very pretty striped silk in the clearance area, but it is still $10 a yard, which I still find too pricey to justify!

Gown fabric - I like the idea of wool - but can never seem to find COLOUR..and the fact that it is not easily cleaned is a consideration as well. Gem - your gown is stunning - but the only tablecloths (or fabric of the kind) that I can find has more of a leafy floral pattern, notthe more damask pattern I see in yours - it is also ridiculously expensive here - $24 a yard!

In terms of year, our Ren faire is at about 1526, and English (British) where gowns are concerned.

Many a sheet has made it's way into my garb in one form or another, but I have not seen sheets well enough for an entire gown. My current gown is upholstery fabric - so I can deal with the heat, but I will continue to look into some of the options discussed here!

[isabelladangelo]

Yes, you are paranoid.   

http://www.fabricguru.com/cart/index.php?target=products&product_id=414401&page=

Mill Creek is a fabric company that has a lot of Linen/Rayon blend brocades and jacquards.   Some of their stuff is very usable as Tudor gowns.   

[DonaCatalina]

Oh my gosh- chocolate damask $5.95 yd
http://www.fabricguru.com/cart/index.php?target=products&product_id=497122

[Cilean]

Good day and greetings! The time has come that I must do a little bit of upgrades to my ensemble, and I am seeking advice on fabric choices. I tend to look at Fabricland (The Canadian equivalent of Joann's) to see what is on sale, and suitable in color, heft, and texture, but lately there is not much available. I may go down the route of ordering online, at which time I will be checking out the online stores listed near the top of the forum.

• Corset – What fabric-
  
  Tudor / Elizabethan Gown – I think it is time I made a new gown, and am wondering about linen – specifically Canvas Weight linen – is it going to be too rough? Will it still provide a nice drape? Might it lower my class? (I prefer the noble look, personally).  If not - what else can you recommend?
  
  The problem I most frequently have is the fact that we do 2 or 3 day events, and the weather plays havoc – either it is so hot that I don't smell too sweet by the end of day 1, or it pours rain, and the gown may not dry before day 2. I always wear a fresh chemise, but do not have energy to wash my gown at the end of a long day.

Pair of Bodyes (AKA Corset)-
Heavy duty Canvas is mentioned in Tudor Tailor as an excellent fabric, with a twill inside layer.

Elizabethan Gown -

Linen was not found in the day as yet as the outer fabric for gowns, but it does not mean you could not have them! Our Hot Summers are really different from the climate are representing.  I don't have a very good heat tolerance, so I make my Elizabethans in Linen.  Truly you would want to mimic wool textiles of the period. The good part is that we have dozens of things that can mimic this, twills like Cotton, or even Linen/Cotton can be used instead of wools, or blends of Silk/Cotton, or Silk/Linen.  

Medium weight Linen as in 5.0 to 6.0 ounce Linens can drape lovely and can be decorated so nicely! Here is an example please check out the Attack Laurel's apprentice and her use of Linen to really make a lovely periodesque gown:
http://www.extremecostuming.com/apprenticebrag/lisettelaroux.html

Have you checked into Cotten Sateen? Not the stretch stuff but the regular? Tudor Tailor's Ladys Ninya and Jane say that this sort of material mimics the satin of the past without it being of wool or silk.  It also has an awesome drape and it is lightwieght and you can get some great colors!

Cotton Damasks or Velveteen- which if you have a 50% off coupon can be very inexpensive, and lovely and washable! Heck? You could even dye it if you want!  I have found a couple of Linen Damasks on eBay.  Being a Noble means you really need to 'look' spectacular, so you want to use the stiff that gives you the best bang! for the buck. Embellishments are just as important as the material you are using to create the gown.  By adding jewels and embroideries and pearls and beads? You can really turn and inexpensive piece into a show stopper!  So your gown can be of a lighter material and the forepart and sleeves could be of shot or changable silk as your forepart or sleeves,  and then guarded so it does not touch the ground, and add more embellishment to that as well, so splurge on those items that will really give you a fantastic look!

Learning to love Layers-
You mentioned it can get very warm to very cold, well honey that is what different sleeves, and Gabardines and Robes are for!
Gabardines could have looked like this:


Which to me? Looks like a Fitted English Gown with kirtle but it does look a little heavier and has a larger lapel like thingee (technical term!)

Drea had a great discussion on some outerwear in her article:
http://www.employees.org/~cathy/cote_body.html


So basically? You need to feel Nobel it needs to look rich and feel good on you~

Cilean
[/list]