Gallery of In Progress Projects

[Magpie Flynn]

I have a question about the knife pleating. Can it be done by hand? I know there's a pleating machine thing out there that I've seen other use, but I can't get my hands on one.

[gem]

Um... what's a pleating machine? You do ALL pleating by hand, or at least I do. Knife pleating is the easiest--the least amount of marking and measuring. Here's a photo of my knife-pleated 1700s underpetticoat, where I eyeballed the pleats.

[Magpie Flynn]

It was less of a automated machine, more of a nifty washboard kind of thing that you could draw the fabric through, iron it, and you come out with these awesome, perfectly even pleats. I saw it somewhere on the TV bulletin board awhile back, the ladies there used them to make their accent pleats.

I've done pleats on skirts by eyeballing them before, the question was more towards making the accented bottom ruffle on a skirt and making it come out even looking (everything turns out lopsided when I eyeball it

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Victorian Underskirt with knife pleats at the hem. Black Gimp. The Undereskirt has ties in the back to look like one is wearing a bustle. That is also to slim the skirt a bit because it is very full otherwise.


Closeup of the Knife Pleats. I made 2" marks starting from a  seam to the end. Everything folded nicely and was even.


Overskirt with Gimp and Knife Pleats. These pleats are 1" apart.


Overskirt Side Left

Using the Truly Victorian Pattern for this ensemble. I am using a Poly Moree Taffetta because of how it flows. The Overskirt has no Bustle. This is more the Natural Form that was popular in the 1870's. Women wore petticoats under the skirts. Which I will do rather than wear a bustle.

Now on to the Bodice part in my spare time.

The Pleated strips were serged using a tight rolled hem. If your serger does a nice rolled hem, that saves a lot of time in finishing off the strips. Love doing rolled hems.

[Magpie Flynn]

Wow! That looks fantastic!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Yesterday I began Merlin the Elder's Gandalf variation. I cut out the Undertunic Gown, Vest, and Cloak. The Linen for the Cloak is heavy enough, I will not need to line it. I will do French Seams and a hand rolled hem at the bottom. That will wear nicely in Texas weather.

Today I sewed and finished the Tunic. I found an outdated SIMPLICITY pattern that I tweaked a bit to make it look more Lord of The Ringsish.


The tunic is a decorator weight Cotton. The contrast is a rougher cotton. Trim is a Tan on Creme from JoAnn's. I happened to have some Gold Frogs to use as closures.


A better shot of the fabrics and trim. The trim has an Elvish look to it.


Closeup of the sleeve edge. I love how the textures work. The whole ensemble is about texture. The original Gandalf the White, designed by Nighla Dickson, was all about different textures working together.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

After finishing the Gandalf tunic, I began to work on the Bodice part of my Victorian. Here is the unfinished Bodice so far.

The Taffetta is underlined in one layer of Canvas Duck. i have the lining to put together, the sleeves, as well as make the knife pleated rouching to match that of the Overskirt. I bought more 1/2" Black gimp.

[mellingera]

So after what seems like a million years the dress I have dubbed "The Dress from H-e-l-l" is almost finished.
Still need to finish one foresleeve and hem dress and underskirt by Saturday for MDRF.
Colors are not right in the picture, the dress is taupe and the sleeve lining cream. The underskirt and foresleeve are burgundy and gold.

[amy]

WOW..   Mellingera that is gorgeous!   that neckline is so lovely. 

Lady Kathleen your Merlin is scrumptious!   And even better is your new term.   Lord of the Ringish!  I love it!

You will be a vision in the black Victorian.  I can't am loving the progress updates, thank you!

[DonaCatalina]

Looking good Mellingera...can't wait to see the finished piece.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Unfinished Bodice with 3/4 sleeves.


Side view.

I had Elizabeth pin the shoulders for me that I needed to lift. I have to make the rouching, put the lining together, make the vertical buttonholes, and then sew in the buttons. Should be finished by Friday to wear on Saturday.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Merlin the Elder's Gandalf variation so far....


The original that is my inspiration for this project....



The unfinished Vest with braided trim.


Better shot of the fabric and trim. The same trim is going down the front panels of the cloak, that I will work on today.

I had purchased some lovely Frogs in a Creme from a  local shop vendor here in Rochester. However, they are not going to work because I can't seem to figure out how they work. So I will have to bring them back for a refund. I ordered some Pineapple frogs from Pillaged village that will work. I should have done that first and save a pantload of money.

Live and learn I guess.http://pillagedvillage.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_46&products_id=350

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Gandalf variation so far.


The cloak is finished. However, the left side of the cloak hem is all wonky. I do not know how that happened, as I laid out the Linen the same for the Front piece. The Right side came out normal. I have to let the cloak hang for a few days before I realign the hem and correct the obvious difference.

Due to the fullness of the cloak and heaviness of the Linen, I did not have to  line it. This will breathe well in the Texas Spring weather.


Closeup of the Braided trim and Brooch that I bought from Nagle Forge at the Bristol Renaissance Festival in August. Now you can see the color scheme coming together. The new Frogs i ordered will be in a few days, and I can get them sewn on the vest.

[LadyVal]

The cloak & trim are beautiful!

[Merlin the Elder]

That's what the best-dressed wizard will be wearing this Spring. It looks great, Lady K!