For All Newbies To Sewing

[gem]

Be careful shortening the point if you have any lower abdomen fluff *at all.* I did that when I turned my Simplicity corset into a kirtle, and ended up with a very unflattering bulge underneath (and no, you can't really see it in the pictures, b/c I was very picky about the ones I posted! LOL).

[Lady Gryphon]

I just thought it looked disproportional. Is all.  I'm not going to shorten this one.  It was a test run, just make a new pattern about 2 inches shorter in the front it all.  Yes, I have that fluff you are taking about.  But the point hand too low for my tastes.  I'm use to being fluffy.

Thank you for the wonderful comments.

[Rowan MacD]

  OK. I finally broke out the Marga Anderson patterns, read through the directions for the menswear pieces I am doing (View B doublet due to the bay window on hubby) and the long paned slops.   The directions require that the mockup for the doublet be fitted over the finished slops  so I started with them.  I have gotten as far as a mock up for the slops.
 My question(the first of many):  How close do the base pieces of the slops need to be fitted to hubby, and how should they lie? Apparently neither of us paid much attention to the Slops worn at faire, and they seemed to be rather loosely fitted.  The base is never seen, only the underlayment and panes, and the MA instructions don't cover fitting issues other than the doublet.
 Should the base be close to the body, or a loose fit?  How much is too loose? The mock up is very loose.

Thanks in advance!

[DonaCatalina]

Have him try and the mock up and do squats. That will tell you what needs to be adjusted. Some things that really seem loose for pants shoten up quite a bit when sitting down on a low seat.

[Rowan MacD]

 That's a good idea, but now he's waffling about whether he wants Venetian breeches or slops.  .   Breeches would be easier to make and a lot cooler to wear, even if I use cotton velveteen.   The 7 layers for the slops are pretty bulky, and faire season is always hot.

  I found a light black cotton for 2.99 at Hancock's to line the doublet and breeches with.  
  It's going to be a challenge to tailor around his bay window, but MA provides instructions for that.  My issues are going to be the 4 size range that his measurements fall into.   For the breeches I'm guessing the waist is the most important.  For the doublet, I am becoming stumped.  His tummy is larger than hips and chest.  A most definite 'apple' shape.  Any suggestions for working around that?

edit: Right now I'm thinking of going with the largest size and 'taking in' the mock up here and there on the chest area. I don't think he will like having the doublet contoured to his middle...

[gem]

Just like with women's clothing, it's pretty hard to "take in" at the neck/shoulders. Much easier to let out to accommodate the belly. Here's a link to the standard "full abdomen adjustment" for mundane clothing. You'd need to tweak it for period pattern shapes, of course.

This might also help--it's a tutorial on draping a doublet pattern on a man, using an Oxford shirt that fits well:
http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/doublet1.html

If you did this, and then transferred the markings to paper, you'd have a basic block to compare the MA patterns to.

[Rowan MacD]

Just like with women's clothing, it's pretty hard to "take in" at the neck/shoulders. Much easier to let out to accommodate the belly. Here's a link to the standard "full abdomen adjustment" for mundane clothing. You'd need to tweak it for period pattern shapes, of course.

This might also help--it's a tutorial on draping a doublet pattern on a man, using an Oxford shirt that fits well:
http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/doublet1.html

If you did this, and then transferred the markings to paper, you'd have a basic block to compare the MA patterns to.

I like the link using a shirt as a pattern. .
    From the look of it, I should aim for the low end on the MA size (which would be the chest)  and 'let out' whichever seams I need to, to accommodate the Bay Window.  MA instructions recommend adding fabric at the side seams, to the front pieces of the doublet which does not sound too hard. 
   

   Was there supposed to be another link for the "full abdomen adjustment" ?   
   
   

[gem]

Yes! Weird. Here it is:

http://www.rostitchery.com/2006/04/full_tummy_adju.html

[Rowan MacD]

Yes! Weird. Here it is:

http://www.rostitchery.com/2006/04/full_tummy_adju.html

Thanks! Sweet!

[Rowan MacD]

    What length, weight and type of boning is best for a short waisted Elizabethan dress bodice?  I'm getting ready to order some online.  It will be for the Margo Anderson patterns.
   Thanks

[gem]

Do you mean that *you're* short-waisted (or whoever the dress is for)? If you're planning to use boning that you can't cut yourself (steel), then you'll need to have the piece really well fitted BEFORE you order your boning. Normally, you'd wear an Elizabethan gown over a supportive undergarment (corset or kirtle), so most of the heavy-duty boning goes in that. The boning in the gown is just to maintain shape/keep pieces from wrinkling, etc.

All of that said, I'm still a fan of heavy-duty cable ties. I buy the Malco brand from Home Depot, but they can be tricky to find [and I don't care for the other brands they carry; not rigid enough for corsets], and I always need to look up the specs in this thread from last summer: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=15848.0.

[Rowan MacD]

  I'm making this for myself, and I am a borderline short waisted person, though not extremely shortwaisted.  I say this because just about all ready made corsets dig into my hips or jab my armpits, though there are a couple of garb makers that I can wear off the rack. This is the first upper class gown that I have tried. 
   I have seen those wide cable ties over at home depot, I will probably just get those since I will be wearing all the required undergarments to achieve the period shape.   I only need the dress to lie correctly. 

[Rowan MacD]

    For all you folks with experience with Margo Anderson Patterns:

    I am attempting to make the the mock up for hubby's Elizabethan doublet from the Elizabethan Gentlemans' Wardrobe Pattern (second addition)- size 40-44. view B.

    According to the cutting layout on page 55 of the instruction manual-I need pieces 6A,6B,6C,6E and 6F. (front, sides, back and collar) for the mock up size 40-44.
    The problem is I have been through ALL the sheets of patterns pieces 3 times and cannot find a piece marked 6A (doublet back) anywhere, the only back piece I have found is marked 6D 'View A'.   So I have 6B,6C,6D,6E and 6F.   That's OK, they fit together.   
   My dilemma is this: The pattern piece 6D is clearly marked 'View A'  with no mention of 'View B'.  I can use the 6D piece, but I want to be clear on this before I bother with cutting out the mockup:  Can we use 6D instead?  Does 6A exist?  Could this be a typo on the Layout page?   

    Note:  The rest of the illustrations seem to show the narrower back (6D) for all views.  Perhaps she has discontinued the wider (6A) piece, intending for the 6D piece to be used for both, and did not update her cutting layout guides?

Normally I would wing it, but since this is the first time using this (expensive) pattern, I want to follow her directions to the tee.

If you ladies could please break out your instruction manuals and give your opinions?  I will start the mock up when I'm sure I can use the 6D doublet back.  If not, I'm screwed since there is NO 6A in the patterns. 

[gem]

Didn't you sign up for her Yahoo group? I would ask there (she's a member and responds directly to questions like this). Alternately, you might just email her!

[Rowan MacD]

   I posted the above on the Yahoo groups too. No answer yet.
   I was hoping someone here would know the answer off the top of their head.
   I'm just about sure it's a typo on the Cutting layout page, in which case MA might like to know that.

   Probably the only thing that would help in this case is to list the pattern pieces needed at the beginning of each set of instructions for each garb item (I love how detailed the book is!)...It may just seem redundant for her to do so, since she already includes the name of the piece on each pattern bit,  groups them by number (very helpful to know all the pieces in group 6, for example, are for doublets) and then she sets them out again in the cutting layout page using just the numbers (which in this case do not exactly match).