How do I line these sleeves?

[gem]

So I'm working on the "Van Helsing" bolero... which is coming along slowly (we're still in the muslin/testing phase). And one thing I'm not 100% sure I have my brain wrapped around are these split bell sleeves:



Normally I would bag line a jacket, and then fold/press up the sleeve hems and hand tack them in place. But I'm not sure how to apply that to the open split bells... or to the velvet the jacket will be made of.  I am thinking perhaps I should do the reverse, and line the sleeves separately, from the hems up... but then I'm not sure what to do with the raw edges at the sleeve cap. I suppose I could just treat them and the sleeves as one, and ease them together into the armscye...

So you see my dilemma? LOL

Anyone have suggestions? I'm using Simplicity 1819, which has nice bell sleeves--but they're not split... and also I think I may have to round the edges out to get them to fall open a little bit more.

Ideas?
Gramercy!!

[Kate XXXXXX]

There are two ways: either sew the cuff edge up as you would for a bagged sleeve, leaving the slits alone.  Turn through and slip-stitch the lining along the slits, or sew from the top of the slit down and round the hem and back up the other side of the slit.

[isabelladangelo]

Does the seam run up from the split?   I'd lay the sleeve flat (not sewn) with the fabrics facing one another.   I'd sew along the cuff and the lay it out as one big piece of fabric.  Fold it in half and sew up the seam as one big tube.  Pull the lining fabric up and over the fashion fabric, turn inside out so the fashion fabric is out and the lining is in.  Does that make sense?  It should work.  If it doesn't, it should only be a few stitches up near the top of the split that you need to take out and whip stitch to make it lay correctly. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The Bolero worn by Kate Beckensale, was designed by Gabriella Pescucci. She is the Designer for the costumes in 'Dangerous Beauty' and currently, 'The Borgias'.

I would line the main part of the sleeve, starting at the bottom to the sleeve cap that will be sewn into the armsythe, and have the Bottom Bell part as a seperate piece , then tacked together on the inside to get the desired look. No one is going to see the inside of the sleeve anyway.

You will want to line the Bolero first before you sew on the sleeves. That way, the lining around the armsythe can be stitched to hide the armhole seam. That's how I do Pirate coat linings.

[isabelladangelo]

http://costumersguide.com/vanhelsing/red_exhibit1.jpg

I found a really good picture of the actual jacket.  It looks like it has red (silk?) bias tape sewn to the facing fabric and then tacked in, on to the lining.   Ie, leave the lining hanging and just wrap up the edges in bias tape. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The actual name for the style of sleeve on Zouave Bolero jackets is called a PAGODA sleeve. This style of sleeve was popular on women's clothong pre and shortly after the Civil War.

SIMPLICITY has a new Steampunk pattern out similar to Pescicci's original design..http://www.simplicity.com/p-7517-misses-steampunk-costume.aspx
This could work, gem. The Bell part of the sleeve appears to be a false undersleeve.

Great link and Photo, isabella.

[Rani Zemirah]

Is it a false sleeve, or is it attached to the blouse she's wearing under the jacket and corset? 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Good eye! I did not see that the blouse and sleeves were of the same fabric and design. DUH!!!

The Sleeves will be easy line for there is a seperate Bloue worn with the Jacket.

WHY did I not see that???

[Rani Zemirah]

Maybe because you do so much work with false under-sleeves, and layers, where detachable sleeves are concerned, so the first thing your brain tells you is that there are two (or more) layers to that sleeve.  That's what I saw when I first looked at it, also.  lol

[gem]

Thanks, everyone! I need to work my way through all of the suggestions and see if I can make sense of them (not always the best at figuring out sewing techniques from written instructions!).

Isabella, I'm glad you found those photos of the real jacket! I knew the trimwork was more than just gold, but these photos let me see the multiple layers of black, burgundy, and gold soutache used. (And it's interesting to see what seem to be two different production pieces, as well. Close examination of the two shows slight differences in the trimwork.)

The pieces of Beckinsale's costume are as follows (and easy to see in the film, as she doffs layers in various scenes)--a long-sleeved embroidered blouse in a traditional Romanian style, a very dark brown studded leather corset with tabbed waist, and the velvet bolero jacket. The jacket sleeves are one piece (there's no seam separating the bell from the upper sleeve)... although there is an open "vent" in the underarm, which is visible when Beckinsale raises her arms. I wasn't really planning on replicating that, although it occurs to me that that might perhaps make things *easier* on me (not having to ease all the sleeve into the sleeve cap). Yes? No? Overthinking? LOL This is a feature of sleeves I've seen in artwork of our period, but I have no idea how to accomplish it, unless it's really as basic as it sounds (sew the top, leave a vent open, finish raw edges).

I'm going back and forth on lining this. I bought Bemberg, but I'm sort of afraid of it (it's *so* lightweight and slippery!), so I decided to use the slightly crisp and slick poly-cotton broadcloth (unwashed) from Hobby Lobby... but it drags a little, so I'm back to something slippery. And I'm *definitely* lining it--the idea of binding velvet is even more intimidating!

***
Ok, back to trying to figure out welt pockets, damn their eyes. 

[isabelladangelo]

http://costumersguide.com/cr_vanhelsing.shtml

Here's the site I got the picture from.   She has a lot more up that should help - there are two different riding outfits that look somewhat similar. 

[gem]

Ok, I'm back, having spent the day shopping and experimenting, and I think I've made some decisions. I bought some heavier weight lining fabric in a really pretty black and wine iridescent. I'll be (lightly) interfacing the velvet (for the trim), so I'm hopeful that the layers will play nicely together.

I scoured the entire metro area for black soutache and FINALLY found some today... but I'm not 100% happy with how it looks when I have the layers of trim working together. Since the trimwork reads as simply gold on screen, I've pretty much decided just to use the gold. 

...And, Isabella, you talked me into it! I think I'll bag my lining as normal--but bind the sleeve hems (gulp!). I should be able to handle that much!

The welt pocket experiment (for another project!) is going reasonably well, too.