Making a Moresca-style bodice?

[gem]

Beware: there is no good structure to this post, but I would love to hear brainstorming and all good input!

I could really use a new (spectacular) fairwear bodice. I have two beautiful ones from Ophelia's, but both are currently the wrong size (one too small, the other too big). My other one I made myself (front, back), and while I like it well enough, it was hurriedly cobbled together from fabric in my stash that I wasn't terribly excited about, when I shrank out of the bodice I'd made a few months earlier!    And it is also now going into its SIXTH season.

I think I deserve a new one! 

I haven't really seen anything at Faire that I'm crazy about, and I don't really just want to make another basic one. I'd love to do something with all the detail and blending of fabrics like you see in Moresca and other signature brands (esp. the Philippa). I'm not trying to copy it, but I would like my next bodice to have a little more "oomph!" to it! (Oh, and I think making is better than buying, because I am petite in the shoulders, and the shoulder straps on bodices are *always* too big on me. I'm finally figuring out how to fit straps on myself!)

I'm not worried about the fit/pattern--I have enough basic bodice blocks and patterns that fit me well--but I'd love to hear thoughts or ideas about blending fabrics, trims, and other details to make something really special! I can raid my stash for some things I've collected over the years, and add to it easily from Hobby Lobby & JoAnn's home dec departments.  I just need a plan!

So have at me, gentles--let's dream big! 

[CenturiesSewing]

The Moresca look really is all about texture and pattern, shades of similar colors, and binding and piping highlighting the cut and contour.

http://kuler.adobe.com/#create/fromacolor  Fun color tool I use for many things, garb included. 

So looking over what they have on the web site..

Fabrics with a heavy pattern are usually used to highlight, solid color plain or textured fabrics tend to be used as a base and sometimes it is vice versa.  You need to pay attention to the size of the patterned fabric and how it is cut to keep things balanced, which is always a bit of a challenge when it comes to upholstery fabric. Trims are textured and layered to give depth, and are often in similar shades or similar saturation to the main fabric. They usually don't stand out in a huge way unless they are being used as an accent color.

That said I think some interesting things could be done with reverse applique
http://www.sempstress.org/2009/reverse-leather-applique-3/
Maybe Plain fabric cut away to show the fancier?

Or to really push things, there is some very interesting work being done by Shingo Sato just using a basic block.

http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2011/12/02/shingo-sato-designer/

youtube demo of sorts: http://youtu.be/th90rJ8SCIw

[Wickedvox]

I *love* that leather reverse applique!! I encourage you to do that!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

gem,

Here is a BUTTERICK pattern that could be easily adapted for a Moresca type bodice. Figure hugging to gtive that OOMPH you're looking for.
B5662



Hope this helps.

[gem]

Ha! Sorry, Lady K, I meant "design oomph," not "figure oomph!" LOL I have a couple of bodice patterns that fit me well already. 

Centuries, BRILLIANT! I love how you broke down the design to see how the colors and materials work together. That's exactly what I needed, and I didn't know it.

I went through my stash last night (as much as the heat would allow) and pulled some fabrics that I loved when I bought them, but that aren't really suitable for larger projects--that really stiff upholstery fabric, the slightly shiny synthetic brocade, the weird small piece of taffeta I picked up who knows where/why--and started putting them together in surprising combinations. If the air conditioner guy gets here later, I'll try to comb through the whole shebang and get some photos up to play with.

I also discovered that Moresca has their catalogue/flyers online in .pdf form, and some of them actually offer a lot of insight into their design process. I snipped a couple good photos for my records (one showed a dozen bags in various combinations of fabric/trim/color--a great small design palette!).

And for the record, I singled out Moresca because they're the first ones I thought of when I posted! I've also admired the more elaborate bodices of Pendragon, Venefica, Odd Bodkin, and some of the variations on Margo bodices I've seen over the years!

[Rowan MacD]

  I adore Moresca, and own about 5-6 pieces in various sizes.
   I have always loved the eclectic mish-mash of unlikely fabrics and trims that they put together.  A look through their catalog is always a 'who would of thought that would go together?'  adventure.   
 
 

[Cilean]

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Okay Gem,

You obsess and you are such a good costumer! SO there!  You have made bodices before so pick the one you like to wear and then? Pick your fabrics!  Joann's has some expensive reds/golds damasks that you can really do wonders to! 

That bodice does not look too difficult, I have never seen the Moresca bodices in person, however they look like they were generated (in the beginning) with the Lead Bodice pattern, without the part in the front so that is not so squared off at the shoulders. I like the tabs but I don't think the lacing all over is fashionable or pretty but that is my aesthetic for H/A.  I think you can make one of these and a matching skirt if you put your mind to it!

I say? Go get some fabrics and do it right!

Cilean


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[insidiousraven]

I have a custom made Philippa which I adore.  When I was having it commissioned, They sent me a whole bunch of different fabrics with corresponding trims, and that is what I picked from. 

I think the key is multiple trims and a mix of loud patterns with solids