Still having issues: Changing split tabs to solid skirting

[gem]

I am having a bit of either sewing amnesia or a mental block, because this *seems* like it should be totally straightforward and simple, but I'm running into a couple of snags.

The Simplicity 4059 doublet I'm making my FIL has split tabs/picadils at the waist, which I would like to make a solid band of skirting, like this person did.

I started off by laying the picadil pattern pieces side by side (there are two--one for the angled front pieces, and one for all the rest of the tabs) and tracing off a basic shape. But one of the issues I'm having is that the doublet is quite curved at the bottom--it hits close to the natural waist at the sides, and then curves down in front, as you can see in this picture of the pattern pieces, thoughtfully provided by an ebay seller (piece 25 in the lower right-hand corner):



That curve is necessary to fit the wearer (certainly to fit *my* wearer), but the individual tabs aren't curved at the top... so I'm not sure what to do about it. Even if I scrap the original pattern pieces and draft something entirely from scratch, I still have to deal with that curve, and I don't know whether to copy the curve in the top of the skirting pattern, or... ??

Please, somebody tell me I'm missing something terribly obvious and basic! Because I'd really like to get this done--but I'd also like to do the same thing to another future version of Simplicity 2621, which has an even more extreme curve.

Hmmm. Maybe I should have started in back!

Gramercy!

[isabelladangelo]

Couldn't you just take the skirt pieces from A and make it shorter?

[Kate XXXXXX]

That's certainly where I'd start...

[gem]

Ha! Brilliant, and so simple. Thanks, Isabella!

I pulled my copy of Tudor Tailor, and saw that the top of the skirting pattern is indeed curved to match the edge of the doublet. I was more surprised to see how many features the Simplicity doublet has in common with the TT pattern--unusual features not common to Big 4 patterns, like the curved side-back seams (instead of side seams). The shoulder tabs/wings that end bluntly instead of curving into the armscye are also present, and the shape of the tabs is likewise suspiciously similar. ...So if you're going to knock off a H/A pattern... why not do it *better?* Why the weird trim pattern, the oversized fit, and the missing collar? 

[gem]

Well, unfortunately, using the skirting pattern for the other view won't work, as the other view has a different front bodice piece with much less curve (in the original picture, it's piece #1 in the upper left corner). So I'm stuck with the same problem!

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!!

[isabelladangelo]

Cut out the skirt piece from muslin or paper - something you can write on and use later.  Overlap piece 25 (the front double piece you used) over the skirt piece at the top, matching where it would hit with piece 1 (the original front doublet piece the skirt is meant to go with) for the side seam (ie, make sure the underarm seam is in the right place!).  Draw a line on the skirt piece where the doublet piece overlaps.   (It looks like it should only overlap in the direct front, not the side front.)   Cut the skirt piece along this line and then shorten it.

[CenturiesSewing]

Or another option:




Trace the doublet waist line at the stitching line.







Flip the paper over and upside down. Draw a line from the side seam and front doublet point flaring out slightly for 2 inches, connect these two points with a curve. Add seam allowances. 

[AuntieDawn]

http://www.reddawn.net/costume/doublet.htm  has instructions for doing the exact opposite of what you want.  Can you use those instructions in reverse?     I dunno.  It makes sense in my own special brain-space.   

[gem]

Well, having tinkered a bit and come up with a mockup that worked... I have made the executive decision to eliminate the curve! LOL I ended up with a very nice (altho' strange) curved seam that would probably accommodate FIL's belly... which is quite interesting, but not something I want to experiment without him here to fit in person. Right now I would rather have the length than the close fit around the "waist."

So I'm back to Isabella's first suggestion (using the pattern pieces for View A). Whew! Glad that's figured out.

Thanks, all!