Kirtle sew along?

[insidiousraven]

My problems have stemmed from putting the pieces together.  Basically the best way to attach the fashion fabric to the interlining, when to do the guards, at what point do you stitch the straps down. How do you end up with nice seams all around.  It's like this big puzzle, and I was always horrible at geometry.

I basically learned a million different ways to NOT construct a kirtle with this first one. 

Also, I'd love a tutorial on cartridge pleating.  I want to do it, but it seems tedious and difficult.

If you do videos, I'd probably appreciate written instructions as well.  I also don't have a dressform (though I want one)  so that part of it wouldn't apply to me.  I do have a fitting bodice pattern already, if I don't get too excited about cleavage and chop the front too short so it is too small for my fat.

[Wickedvox]

Idea wise I'm at:

Show draping on the dressform, but not everyone has access to a dressform..

Start from a store bought pattern and heavily adapt and modify it.

Keep it simple, let everyone worry about their own pattern and just cover the sewing side of things.

I've never draped, but would be open to it--as long as I get a dress form from an estate sale I'll be going to.

Adapting & modifying patterns can get confusing for me--and don't you need a dressmakers ruler for that? On the other hand, god knows we've *all* had to wing it at times, so this may be a good option.

I think you'd be opening yourself up to a *flood* of questions from people doing a *lot* of different patterns, as the sewing instructions may not mesh with their version. It might actually be easier for *you* to take it from start to finish.

That's my humble opinion!

[isabelladangelo]

I'll put it this way - I only learned what the heck a dressmakers ruler was this past May.  Honest.  I have never used one nor seen a reason to use one.   I've done most of my patterning through a mix of flat measurements (regular ole measuring tape!) and draping. 

[Wickedvox]

I'll put it this way - I only learned what the heck a dressmakers ruler was this past May.  Honest.  I have never used one nor seen a reason to use one.   I've done most of my patterning through a mix of flat measurements (regular ole measuring tape!) and draping. 

Wooooowww....good to know! I've always thought drafting your own pattern meant lots of rulers, tools, special 3-D imaging software, algebra lol! I'm intimidated as *he!!* by drafting. I just this past month drafted my own skirt pattern (which saves *tremendously* on yardage--2.5 yds for a skirt, ooooh yeah!), and my dog's "garb" pattern--and I've been sewing for *years.* This makes me want to see a tutorial even MORE!

[isabelladangelo]

Basic geometry is helpful but nothing too complicated.  Most of the time, you measure it all out, draw it up, try the mock up on, and make the edits.  A bit time consuming but not overly difficult. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

I either have or have ready access to a number of fancy devices for making patterns.  The things I use MOST are the 24" quilter's ruler, the 12" VERY ACCURATE steel draftsman's ruler, and a set of French Curves a lot older than I am!  The next up is the grader's set square, which is unbeatable for squaring up and down when you need right angles.  I also have things like the Pattern Master:



And the metric Variform Curve:



But unless you are drawing really fitted or really curvy pattern pieces, a decent 24" or 36" ruler, a set square and a either a set of French Curves or a Flexicurve  for armscye's and sleeve heads will be all you really need.

[gem]

I thought I'd post some good kirtle resources from around the 'Net.

http://freespace.virgin.net/f.lea/kirguide1.html An excellent, step-by-step guide (with photos!) to creating a working-class kirtle. I can't tell you how many times I've read through her instructions.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makekirtle.html Drea Leeds's basic recipe for making a kirtle using her Custom Corset Generator. Lots of good information; scanty on the pictures.

Because Raven asked for one, Leeds also has basic cartridge-pleating instructions: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/index.html ...although the best one is right here on our forum: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=8365.0  This thread has Lady K's brilliant gingham-facing technique for simplifying the marking process (which I am about to employ on my new middle-class skirt), as well as lots of great photos posted by PR costumers. Really an excellent resource.

[Wickedvox]

Bump! So what's the status of this? I just got a *huge* stash from an estate liquidation and I got some wools (I think lol) and I think I need to make a kirtle!

[CenturiesSewing]

Wicked I am working on getting everything together! Bit of a delay as I have hurricane Issaac on my doorstep tomorrow.. just in time for my birthday. 

Any pics of your fabric haul? It sounds like a good one. You can always try the bleach test on a few small cuts of wool to see if they are blends or not.

[Wickedvox]

Well, you just tell Isaac that it's not a very convenient time for us...geeze! Stay safe for crying out loud!

Yes! I've taken pics, just need to upload them--wait until you see everything I got! I even forgot a couple items at the house and have to go back for them 

What's the bleach test?

[CenturiesSewing]

Hopefully it will just be some wind and rain.

Bleach test, pour some regular chlorine bleach into a an old jar, add a few small snippings of what you suspect is wool. Leave it over night. If it is wool it will dissolve, if it is blend some of it will dissolve and leave behind little threads.

[Wickedvox]

Cool! I'll try that, thanks!

[CenturiesSewing]

I wrote this up on my blog, but I'm just going to cross post relevant bits here.



General Materials needed:
I'm giving a rough idea in the amounts listed if you are taller than average or plan to heavily preshrink your fabrics add more yardage.


4 to 5 yards of wool

4 to 5 yards linen for lining or just 2 yards of linen if only lining the bodice and sleeves

1 to 2 yards of twill/drill/canvas for interlining

2 to 4 yards muslin/calico for flatlining and mock ups

Matching embrodiery thread for eyelets

A roll of paper for patterning, or newspaper can work in a pinch..

Tracing wheel

Awl

Chalk

Hand sewing needles, pins and so forth.

Lacing strips for fitting.

Pattern:
I decided on a store bought pattern just to make it as accessible as possible. Simplicity 3723 and 2354 is a basic costume pattern in a good range of sizes, the "Pilgrim" dress  has waist darts and bust darts but no other fancy shaping so it is ideal for adapting. I'll cover rotating out the darts, adapting the pattern to a curved front bodice, trouble shoot any fitting issues as best I can and any other things that might come up.
We will be ignoring the pattern instructions, if you have a similar pattern in your stash, feel free to use it instead. 

[Wickedvox]

This is "SEW" exciting! Har har har! I'm bookmarking your blog for later use, but will be reading along when I'm not studying--school officially started today   

[CenturiesSewing]

Finally had a chance to finish writing part 1, the holidays are eating up my free time. 

http://centuries-sewing.com/2012/12/02/kirtle-sew-along-measurements-and-adjustments/

This installment covers some basic measuring, adjustments, and how to pivot darts out of patterns.