Please soundboard/help me decide?

[skitter]

So . . . I'm not new to dressing in garb for Faire, but I am new to developing a "playtron" character, and I need something new to wear this year . . . and I'm having a terrible time deciding on colors, etc.  My current garb consists of a back-lacing Moresca Max II bodice in burgundy and blue and a swirly multicolored (blue, burgundy) flouncy skirt, but this year my husband is on cast, so I need something in which I can dress myself (since he won't necessarily be available to lace me up).  I'm planning to buy a basic "wench" type affair (front-lacing bodice, plain chemise, one or two gathered skirts), much less fancy than what I already own, and I'm trying to decide if I want to go with colors that will complement what I already have so that I can mix/match, or if I want to go with something completely different.

I know enough to stay away from purple and black and red . . . is burgundy too close to red for a weaver's daughter?   I was thinking burgundy bodice with skirts in pale yellow and some other color (again with the indecision). 

Help?

[gem]

Are you trying to create a historically accurate (or semi-accurate) character? A weaver was a solid career, and men made a very good living at it, particularly in textile centers like England, Bruges, etc. Your weaver's daughter would be pretty well off, in the general scheme of things. And she would probably have access to nice fabric, good dyes, etc. I would recommend a nice, solid color kirtle--but if you can't find one to buy, the Moresca Philippa has a decent middle-class sensibility to it--and it's front-lacing. Pair it with a solid color skirt in the same main color (wool if you can; it will fit your character), plus a nice full petticoat; wear a high-necked smock and a linen coif, and you'll be in good shape.

Stay away from too many accessories that cry "wench"--hiked up layers of skirts, too much cleavage on display, a belt loaded down with mugs and pouches and weapons, saucy hats with too many feathers, etc. A better choice would be an apron and a basket.

As far as colors go--like I said, as a weaver's daughter you'd have your choice of colors, and I'd go rich here--deep, saturated colors like dark brown, burgundy, navy, even plum.  Whatever you look good in, really.

Here's a Google image search for Elizabethan middle class, to help with inspiration.

Have fun!!

[skitter]

Thanks!  I'm not going for *strict* H/A, but just not grossly inconsistent . . . mainly just something I can dress myself in and be comfortable in the heat (Spring in TX -- wool is probably right out except the first couple weekends maybe). 

I may have to rethink my character a bit, actually -- the weaver's daughter thing was mainly so that I would have a good excuse to be spinning with a drop spindle from time to time to amuse myself, and I didn't want to go completely peasant.  This is all in the nascent stages right now, so I have some time to work it out.

Thanks so much for the help! This is the first year that I'm planning to do more than just play dress-up and go for a day.

[Rowan MacD]

  Greetings,
   As Gem said, it depends on how HA you wan to be.   
   Wenches as described above are anything but HA.  They are fun characters to play,  but they are about as 'period' as a chainmaille bikini.

  You don't have to give up the Max2  if you are having problems getting into it.
  I have both the Max and Max 2, and I have always dressed myself.  Hubby has arthritis in his fingers so asking him to tight lace me is out of the question, and I like my Moresca snug.
   I use the side laces to tighten and leave the back alone.   I only loosen one side to get in and out of it once I have the back and one side laced the way I like it.  I then slide it over my head and pull down over my hips, and with a lean forward to adjust the ladies,  I'm ready to go.
  Moresca is actually the easiest (of the heavy boned) bodices I have to get into solo.   The only back laced anything that I currently own is my Elizabethan corset, and I it looks like I will be making a front lacer soon, since there does not seem to be anyone who makes them, and I don't wanT to put hubby through the pain anymore than I have too.
   

[skitter]

Yanno, I never thought about lacing myself into it using the side laces -- that's genius! 

Honestly, my Max 2 is a bit on the small side for me right now, so I was hoping/planning to procure a new bodice soon anyway . . . I really REALLY want to learn to make them myself, but my current sewing skills aren't quite up to it yet -- and probably won't be before Faire this year.  And I'm not sure another Moresca bodice is in the budget for this year either, at least not before TRF.  Gas money to get back and forth to the Village of Scarborough, yanno?

Perhaps this year I will go more peasant-y with plans of something more elaborate for my imagined character (preferably that I've sewn myself) in the coming seasons.

[gem]

A bodice was one of the first things I made! The sewing's not hard; the key is getting it to fit properly. I copied one I had in my wardrobe, and followed the boning/construction advice of more experienced board members.

The happy thing about making your own bodices is that they only take about 1 yard of fashion fabric (2 if they're reversible), so you can either make them for cheap, or splurge on that $35/yard fabric you'd never buy otherwise. 

Is the Max II the Max + shoulder treatment/waist tabs?  Looking at photos of the Max, it looks like it's three flat pieces, which would be really easy to copy. Just unlace it completely, lay it out as flat as you can, and trace around each section. If you want to make it a teensy bit larger, add in TINY amounts at the side seams, remembering that 1.) A bodice must fit SNUGLY, and 2.) Adding 1/4" to four seams gives you an extra inch of room--probably more than you actually want--so it adds up quickly!

It's pretty straightforward to move the lacing (just cut up the front & add seam allowances)--but it *might* affect the fit. I switched my back-lacing Simplicity 2621 corset from back to side-back, and it suddenly became too big! I still don't really understand why.

Come on over to the Sewing forum, and we'll get you set up!

[isabelladangelo]

Beyond what Gem has said, the idea of color restriction is based really off of some misunderstandings of Elizabethan sumptuary laws.  What we think of as purple and what they did are two very different things.  Today, violet and purple are used interchangeably - but not in the 16th C.  The "royal" purple was from the blood of mollusks - so a more burgundy or maroon color as we would understand it.  Violet was nothing more than red - from madder- and blue - from woad or indigo- mixed together correctly.   It's actually very common in peasant paintings but comes out looking brown on our monitors.   Its why I love going to museums - you get an idea of what colors were really available.   

A chemise and a skirt are both ridiculously simple to make.   The bodice is a bit harder but there are a ton of good patterns out there.  There are also a lot of sellers on Etsy that make wonderful Elizabethan Stays or a pair of bodies depending on which term they decide to go with. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png

A painting from 1569 depicting peasant dress.  The lady to the right hand side, dancing, is wearing a blue pair of bodies, a pink skirt, a greenish brown apron, and has on her coif and high necked chemise.   This is probably pretty close to what a weaver's daughter would have worn in warm weather - just leave the chemise neck open. 

[stonebiscuit]

Wool is a lot more comfortable in the heat than you'd think, provided it's real wool (none of that poly blend crap) and not winter weight. That being said, you do you.

Per bodice making, I can't recommend the Elizabethan Corset Pattern Generator enough: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html It was one of the first sewing projects I undertook, and it's so easy to understand. My only suggestion is to knock an inch or two off the measurements for more, um, oomph. If you take my meaning. 

[skitter]

Y'all are awesome!  I really appreciate all the input.  I may well have to Brave The Bodice and try sewing one for myself (though I may hedge my bets and buy one "just in case", haha)

Also! Stonebiscuit, I have been reading your blog since right after you started it without realizing until very recently that you are Esperanza de la Noche!   

OK, I just also realized that although Husb starts faire rehearsals soon, I don't have to have garb for myself put together until April, so I have more sewing time left than it feels like. 

[stonebiscuit]

Also! Stonebiscuit, I have been reading your blog since right after you started it

That literally made me squee with happiness!

Good luck with the bodice!