Chamise fullness question

[LadyStitch]

How full should your chamise be?

I have a white satin one with lace sleeves, but when I wear it with my corset or certain bodices there is so much fabric being pulled in i get almost blades of fabric cutting into me.

When I made one that was less full (of a synthetic fabric, which I will NOT do again btw)  it was better but the bunching under to corset still 'cut' me by the end of the day.
I bought a nice Lady dra which I LOVE, but it is very full and i still get the folds there, but they don't start bothering me until late afternoon. 

I made a friend of mine a new chamise last faire season and she liked it and all I did was use a basic top pattern and not dart the bust.   She seemed to like that.  If I make a new chamise for myself,  should I move the dart to the neck line so I can hide it in with the gathers there?  But if I do that could I get myself into it?

Suggestions, I just don't want to be miseable after 4 hours at faire. I'd like to stay through the fireworks at TRF and still be in my full garb. (IE sneaking back to camp to drop off the corset, and change from wench to peasant )

[Cilean]

I don't know lady Dra however I have been working on a Smock pattern for a workshop I will be giving and I suggest around the body?  You should have no more than 30 inches unless you are a larger frame and your bra size is over 50 then you should have 36 inches.  I also will say while you can lengthen your sleeve pattern so that you have loads of fabric to pull out of your sleeve connection. You only need 18 to 24 inches (again depending on your size in width.

I hope that helps!

Cilean

[isabelladangelo]

Why would you dart the bust of a chemise?      Not only are darts very much NOT period, but well, you wouldn't put darts in a modern nightgown either and a chemise is pretty much a full nightgown...

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/index.html

http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html

Both of the links have great, easy patterns to make full, good, chemise/smocks.

[LadyStitch]

I was looking for a basic chamise (Ie like the big pattern companies)  I can make my own patterns and have h/a patterns with the gussests and everything. I just don't want to deal with a gusset this time, but if it will get a better fitting chamise, I'll deal with it. 


When I make my own patterns I usually start with my basic woman's bodice block pattern, then make changes to it. 

[sealion]

I think you will be much more comfortable in the long run if you take a bit of extra time to make a smock with the underarm gussets. Those gussets are what give you the room you need without excess fabric through the body of the smock. And, of course, the thinner the fabric you use the less the bunched up fabric between you and your corset will bother you. I've had good result using the directions from both of the links posted above.

[operafantomet]

I think you will be much more comfortable in the long run if you take a bit of extra time to make a smock with the underarm gussets. Those gussets are what give you the room you need without excess fabric through the body of the smock.

I agree with that! The gussets offers a wonderful flexibility, as well as a historical-looking garb. And as mentioned, you can use less fabric for the bust-and-stomach area.

I tried out Jennifer Thompson's pattern a few months ago, and I really like the result. Very comfortable, and not too much fabric to deal with under tight bodices.

[LadyStitch]

Ok, THAT is the answer I was looking for. 

I'll see about pulling out my gusseted chamise pattern and go from there.  It is based on Jean Hunnisett <sp>  patterns.