Help with what needle to use, please?

[Bugsy]

I'm sewing through 2 layers of denim and 1 layer of poly/cotton.  I don't have a denim needle, but I do have a 16/100.  Do you think I could use that?  The denim really isn't that thick.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I would strongly advise that you don't.

Denim is very tightly woven, and a 'drill' weave fabric...  See all those sort of diagonal lines?  Drill.     Denim needles have extra sharp points for going through the tight weave.  You should really use the correct size of denim needle for the weight of fabric you have.  Shirt and light skirt weight, use an 80.  Jeans weight, use a 90.  Only use a 100 jeans needle on heavy denim, and only sew that if you have a larger, stronger machine.

Sewing light or medium weight denim with a universal 100 needle won't help and may strain the machine.    The fabric is too dense for the blunter point, and the bigger the needle the more oomph it takes to shove it through the tight fabric.

[gem]

Ack!  Don't you just *lurve* Kate?!  I learn something new every single time she posts--particularly about needles!!   

[Kate XXXXXX]

I dead fussy about needles, me.  See, they are about 19p a shot for universals if you buy bulk packs of 100.  Jeans and other 'fancy' needles (i.e. anything not a universal!) are about 25p a shot, as it's harder to get them in the bigger packs.  Speciality needles like twins, winged, and other really weird stuff can be as much as £3.50 each.  This sounds expensive until you compare it with the rest of your garb project.  Even a dirt cheap $1 a yard chemise is going to be a fiver by the time you cost in thread and elastic or draw cord.  Then you add in your investment in time.  And what price the fabrics and findings for some of your bigger projects?  A quid for a few needles is worth it.  ESPECIALLY as using the right type of needle, and a nice sharp new one for each project, changing it as it gets blunt or damaged (we all sew over pins sometime or other, let's be honest!) protects both your fabric and your machine.

The other thing is that I sew for customers.  Some of them have spent up to £55 a meter for their fancy fabric, and some of that is irreplaceable.  New needles of the correct size and type for the job are essential.

About three years back I wrecked my expensive Husqvarna 910 serger by being stupid and not taking basic care of it.  That cost me £800 in repairs, emergency stop gaps, and, eventually, replacement machines.      I'd rather save you the bother, if you don't mind.   

Damn.  You can take the teacher out of the classroom, but you'll never shake the chalk out of her hair!   

[Lady Caroline]

Yes!  I lurve Kate!!

What kind of needle would you recommend for that cheap silver-shiney-sequined material that walmart sells, and is commonly used for little boy's chainmail?  I had a heck of a time with that one, and want to know for next time.  

(who am I kidding, I will never buy that crap again, but it's still good to know....)


Oh I just read your above post, and notice you are in the UK, and maybe they don't have that same material there.  Maybe someone will know?

[Kate XXXXXX]

Oh, Ye gods... The Fabric From Hell!  This stuff:



You don't.  Seriously, avoid if at all possible!  I once had to costume almost a whole play with that stuff.

That said, I just used a Jersey size 80.  The background cloth is a knit, so a knit needle works as well as anything might.  It isn't the needle that's you big problem with that, it's the sequins.  No matter what you do, the Lurex and the sequins will get stitched through, and the hole WILL have sharp edges.  These will shred the thread, then break it.  If you are lucky, every 6" or so.  The Lurex and sequins will also blunt the needles VERY fast!  Use a new one for each seam.   

The same will happen with the serger, which will also chop bits off the sequins, making sharp plastic shrapnel.  You will get this in your eye.  Wear safety goggles!   

Oh, and if heat gets on the sequins, they will fall off the fabric and stick to the carpet.  They will NEVER go back on the fabric, and you will be spiking your toes on them three years down the line. 

I know it's slow.  Sew the so**ing stuff by hand!

[Bugsy]

Thank you so much for all of that info!

I found an 18/110 in my sewing box and tried it.  It worked great.  However, I do see now that I need to upgrade my supplies

I definitely need to get a denim needle, I like using this fabric for bodices.

[Kate XXXXXX]

They come in packs of five.  I always use Schmetz needles whenever possible.  They are the best.  I also use jeans needles for quilting, and for anything involving curtain and upholstery fabric!

[Lady Caroline]

Oh, Ye gods... The Fabric From Hell!  This stuff:

Yes, that's the stuff!  My eyes tear up just looking at it.  Good to know it's not just us over on this side of the pond that are stuck with it.  lol  Thanks for your expertise

[Kate XXXXXX]

The trouble is that The Fabric From Hell is cheap as chips and looks FANTASIC under stage lights.  The fact that these advantages are far outweighed for the costume makers by the general horribleness that is sewing it does not occur to directors of things like school plays, who see things and fall in love with them.

The actors suffered for their art almost as much as I did.

Back to needles.  Here's a great chart that tells you what to use for which purpose:

http://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/22_115_sewing_machine_needle_charts.pdf

[Elennare]

Oh cool!  I was just about to ask if anyone had a chart like that.   I know almost nothing about sewing machine needles, because I haven't really had any formal instruction in sewing.  I think my sewing machine is going to be a lot happier with me in the future...

[gem]

Ok, here's another one!

What about when you're sewing fabrics of two dramatically different weights--say, a lightweight cotton damask to a heavy cotton canvas interlining.  Do you pick the needle for the lighter or the heavier fabric, something in between, or is this something that one shouldn't even be doing? LOL

(And I want to say it again, but seriously: Kate's needle advice, from ages and ages ago, is probably the single most valuable thing I've ever learned about sewing.)

[Kate XXXXXX]

Ok, here's another one!

What about when you're sewing fabrics of two dramatically different weights--say, a lightweight cotton damask to a heavy cotton canvas interlining.  Do you pick the needle for the lighter or the heavier fabric, something in between, or is this something that one shouldn't even be doing? LOL

Oh, this gets done all the time!  Pick the type of needle for the heavy fabric, so a Jeans needle.  If you are sewing a light but very tightly woven silk taffeta type fabric to a canvas backing, you might want to try a quilting needle.  These are more extreme than the Jeans needle, with an even sharper point.  Use a standard size 80 unless the canvass is tarp weight!

(And I want to say it again, but seriously: Kate's needle advice, from ages and ages ago, is probably the single most valuable thing I've ever learned about sewing.)

Thank you.  I'm glad it has helped.

And as an addendum:  I always match the serger needles to the project fabric as well.  You have a better chance of getting away with a universal type for all projects as the machine works faster, but you really do get much better results if you use the right type of needle, especially stretch and super-stretch needles for things like nylon Lycra fabrics, jersey/knit needles for jersey fabrics, and other matches...  And remember that serger blades do get blunt as well!  Keep and eye on them and get them changed during a major service if they need it.