Elizabethan Doublet Gown- semi H/A

[Blue66669]

Ok, so I've decided that it's time the Empress gets some nice digs. I'd like to either make or purchase a doublet gown, but I need some ideas. Any help? Also, what all needs to go with it? I know that there's the overskirt, the bodice, the doublet/jacket part, and a chemise/partlet. Will I need a corset as well??? HALP!!!

[Master James]

Well as far as what you need, you'll need the following items starting from the inside out:

Chemise and/or partlet
Bloomers or something appropriate
Corset
Bum roll (optional)
Farthingale
Underskirt
Forepart (can be part of underskirt or can be attached to the underskirt so its changable)
Overskirt
Belt to hang stuff from
pouches, goblet, fan, etc... to hang from belt
Doublet top
Doublet sleeves
Hat

Those are the items needed for both the garb and accutraments that my wife has and carries.  Hope this helps.

[Cilean]

Ok, so I've decided that it's time the Empress gets some nice digs. I'd like to either make or purchase a doublet gown, but I need some ideas. Any help? Also, what all needs to go with it? I know that there's the overskirt, the bodice, the doublet/jacket part, and a chemise/partlet. Will I need a corset as well??? HALP!!!

[color=purple

http://www.naergilien.info/movies/Shakespeare/cap030.jpg
The 2 ladies in front of Viola have doublet gowns

Also check out Glittersweet's Site This is Spanish
http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/isabeldevalois.htm

Another Site for French Doublet Gowns
[urlhttp://www.houseffg.org/belphoebe/Research/Civitates.html][/url]


So if you want to make this lovely creation?

I have to suggest (Again! LOL )  Margo Anderson's Patterns -  www.margospatterns.com
I know it is expensive but truly? For people who don't sew or who have not done historical or even those who are really good seamstress and tailors, I suggest these patterns.  The Doublet is pretty straight forward in making I am using this for my own doublet gowns.  I have a summer gown I am trying to get finished and a Spanish Morning Gown that I want to make for fancy dress.

Here is another from Sempstress.org
http://www.sempstress.org/patterns/drafting/doublets.shtml#wdoublet

And One from Renaissance Tailor
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_patterndraft.htm

Here are some dress diaries to help you out!
http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~sahrye/diaries/doubletgown.html
http://www.ctaylor-co.com/SCA/Costuming/Dress%20diary/Brown%20doublet.htm
http://www.modehistorique.com/elizabethan/greendoublet.html
http://web.comhem.se/~u41200125/red1500tal.html
http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~sahrye/gallery/index.html#doublet gown


If you want to purchase something here are some links to people who make on of these gowns beautifully for you, however? It could be pricey:

http://deserttorch.cascades.bz/DTT/DTT_2003%20historical%20female.htm
http://www.amasquerade.com/costumes_renaissance.asp
http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/customers.htm
LynnMcMasters.com
http://www.stimpzillasumptuarylaw.com/main.html


Good Luck
Cilean

][/color]

[Blue66669]

HUZZAH!!! What a fabulous jumping off point!!!! Thank you!

[Capt Gabriela Fullpepper]

Following the link to the Desert Torch site, I located my next dress that I am going to have LKoO make for me. I'm going to go with a tan with deep green and black edging and pearls and an organza partlet.




We will have the sleeve detachable and then the main dress bodice will lace in the back. The green will be were the red is. The chemice and partlet will have gold along the edge of the cuffs and ruffled collar. The trim will be in black and gold. It will go nicely with my tall hat. So I will have four dresses in one as I can wear the doublet or without and with sleeves or without

Originally I had another, but after seeing this one, I changed my mind.

[Sorcha]

Originally I had another, but after seeing this one, I changed my mind.

Oh my! I can see why.  That is an amazing dress!!
Pictures when it's finished please!
M~

[Capt Gabriela Fullpepper]

Originally I had another, but after seeing this one, I changed my mind.

Oh my! I can see why.  That is an amazing dress!!
Pictures when it's finished please!
M~

It will be a while as I am shooting to have her start in 2009. And LKoO is great about posting photos on her site. I made a mistake, it would be 6 dresses as the doublets hanging sleeves will be removable too

[gypsylakat]

but but but but... i want it... but i'm sooo poor.... no monies....

[Cilean]

Yep[!!  Desert Torch has some really awesome gowns, in fact I am basing one of my Tourney or Summer Elizabethans from a gown they have online.  However, this is easily made if you do it in small increments and work towards your goals.  They do SCA, so most of their gowns are more towards H/A as the one you are showing has the inner gown or the kirtle with the outer gown which has the doublet.   You can also combine the above mentioned patterns to gain this look as well. 

As to being poor? I do know the college person issues or just being young and underpaid.  However? There are ways in which you can collect what you need, I give you Cilean's Low Cost Methods of Garbing!!!

Money
Time
Effort

If you don't have 1 of those 3? You will have to work harder with the other 2.  So if you don't have the Money? Then you will need to expend a lot of Time and Effort in order to get what you want. 

The bad 6 letter word is used here : BUDGET

There are also ways to get around this sort of thing, tablecloths and 600 count thread sheets, asking family members to get you Gift Cards for Holidays and Birthdays.  You will need to haunt your local fabric stores, meet and befriend said workers.  You can also haunt thrift stores, untold lovlies have been found there!

Then there is Ross or Marshalls and TJ Maxx, they always are having sales or discounting drapery panels, I got 2 for 99 cents each for my son's recent Elizabethan.  eBay is another venue but it has really been drying up recently due to people thinking I am going to spend 300 for silk damask I can get from Home Fabrics for a fraction of the cost.  So it is down to research, knowing what will look good in modern fabric for a historic look and then doing loads of checking many many sites, and places until you find what you want. 

I have to say though sometimes just being in the right place at the right time will help you out, I was at Costume College  which is in Los Angeles CA,  this past August and I never miss a chance to get
to go to the Fabric District on the last day.  I found deep purple silk damask fabric for 11.57 per yard.  But also there was this stack of fabrics I could not get to,  and it was $1.95 per yard.  I made plans to fly down again August 15th to be with my BFF to also go shopping and we attacked that stack!  We found enough fabric on 3 rolls for a total of 7 yards I think for a Kirtle.  She also found 4 yards of red velveteen for one daughter's gown and some white for another child's gown.  All in all she spent under $50 for tons of fabrics.  She also found some Lavender/Silver/Gold silk damask for a Ventian she wants to do, when I shall never know!  So there is a great place in Minnesota, and I am sure there has to be Indian Saris. I met a lady from Craigslist that I got some Shot Dupioni Blue and Purple that I adore!!

You have to open yourself up to opportunities and discounts and well to getting what you need, add yourself for the coupons from all stores and always be on the look out for garage sales!

Cilean

[Taffy Saltwater]

Cilean, I have been looking for Spanish gowns for the period of the late 1500's as my family dates to 1598 in the Santa Fe, NM area & prior to that Spain. You have made my day - muchisimas gracias!

[Cilean]

Cilean, I have been looking for Spanish gowns for the period of the late 1500's as my family dates to 1598 in the Santa Fe, NM area & prior to that Spain. You have made my day - muchisimas gracias!

I am going to make your day!!  Check out Renaissance Tailors Spanish Mourning Gown, I need this outfit, I have collected the fashion fabric I am just trying to figure out what I want the kirtle to be and well I really wanted this for 12th Night but who knows? I am currently working on a Tudor or Henrician Project for 12th Night but I am in the West kingdom and I could make this to look smashing for Caid 12th Night.

http://www.vertetsable.com/diaries_morninggown.htm

So there is another lovely doublet fantasy !!! LOL

Cilean

[Taffy Saltwater]

Cilean, you are indeed a treasure!  That is an amazing gown - simply beautiful.  The back makes me think of the later French sacque or Watteau gowns.  Thanks for sharing!