Competely new to sewing garb

[Libby Stella]

I've dabbled here and there with my sewing machine, but never anything like clothing. I really don't know where to begin. Any help on where to find good pattern and whatnot would be greatly appreciated.

[isabelladangelo]

http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html

Any garb set needs a good foundation and the chemise is an excellent foundation.  It's also really simple to put together.   When I first made my (years ago) it took about 3 hours.  It now takes me about a half hour.  :-)   


Skirts aren't that hard either.  You just need to cut a strip for the waistband (about 4" by the width of the fabric) and pleat the rest of the fabric to the waistband.  Sew up the one seam, hem the bottom edge, sew the waistband shut, and add a hook so it will close. 

[gem]

Begin with what you're interested in wearing.  Do you know the look you want, or are you really just looking to sew something, anything?  My first garb project was a simple Irish gown, from a basic pattern by Simplicity.

Some people will suggest some basic online instructions, which can be an excellent place to start.  On the other hand, I found it easier to learn from commercial patterns.  The one thing I will definitely tell is you NEVER PAY FULL PRICE for a commercial pattern (Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick).  They frequently go on sale for 99 cents or $1.99 at JoAnn Fabrics and Hancock Fabrics (and sometimes Hobby Lobby).  If you can sign up at the store for their store mailers, you'll get notice of pattern sales and can stock up on things that interest you.

Definitely read some beginner garb sites to learn about garb-friendly fabrics (we normally recommend natural fibers and suggest staying away from all-polyester stuff, because they breathe better and they're much easier to work with), etc.

Also, ask questions--we help better when we have specific ideas of what you're looking for!

Good luck and have fun!

[Libby Stella]

I am really looking for good patterns to practice on, but I will go and check out JoAnns
Thanks SO much!!!

[gem]

Well, a "good pattern to practice on" would include items you want to make and wear, but you might start with something that includes some basic Fair pieces: chemise, skirt, bodice, etc.  (tho' it can be very difficult to get a good fit from a commercial bodice pattern; I wouldn't recommend it as a *first* garb project, but it might be a good thing to have in your stash).

Simplicity, McCall's, and Butterick have all their patterns viewable online:

Simplicity
McCall's
Butterick

And a couple of websites do pattern reviews of various garb patterns.  One I like especially is Red Dawn.  Explore her site--she also has instructions for basic pieces (skirts, hats, pouches, etc).

[Pascal]

Gem's advice about pattern sales is spot on -- if you're willing to wait a week or two, SOMEBODY is going to have a pattern sale.  JoAnn's and Hancock's seem to alternate theirs; Hobby Lobby seems to hold their sales at the same time.  You can visit their websites (www.joanns.com, www.hancockfabrics.com, and www.hobbylobby.com) to view their current sales flyers.  I believe you can also sign up to receive the sales flyers online as well (you can also do so in the retail stores at Hancock's or JoAnns).

Note that the sizes on the patterns are NOT the same as ready-to-wear sizes!!!!  If you wear a size 8 in ready-to-wear, you may need a size 12 pattern!  Look at the back of the pattern where they list chest/hip/waist measurements to see what pattern size you need. 

A chemise is a really good starting place -- easy to cut and sew. 

If you're wanting some pattern experience, I'd look for pajama pants/boxer shorts type things in a Simplicity/McCalls/Butterick pattern.  The techniques you'll use will help build experience on your machine and prepare you for more advanced garb items -- plus, you can always dictate that they'll actually be "breeches" and wear them as garb.  It'll also give you some good experience in fitting the garment as well -- plus they're pretty simple.  If you keep them as pajamas, then small imperfections aren't that big a deal and you can still get some use out of them.

[Lady L]

gem and pascal are absolutely correct. 

[operafantomet]

I agree with isabelladangelo - make a chemise first. That will give you a super foundation for eventual other garbs. Jennifer Thompson's chemise garb is really easy and fun to work with - this is how mine ended up:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/venetian/venchemise3.jpg

The commercial patterns has improved immensely the last couple of years. I still think they tend to use too little fabric in the skirts, but they're a great starting point.

It's also helpful to look through portrait galleries, other peoples garbs etc. to get an idea of what you like and what you want to recreate. Picture references are great, especially if you want to ask online how to make certain items.

Best of luck! 

[Margaret]

Welcome to garb making!  Be warned though, it's a slippery slope and once you get in deep, you will never look at a curtain or a table cloth again without the thought of "Wow, that would make a wonderful skirt/gown/kirtle!!" running through your head!   

The patterns the others have suggested were right on.  And, like Gem, one of the first things I made was an irish gown done with a Simplicity pattern.

The main thing you will have to be conscious of with the Big 3 pattern companies is the fit of the bodice and the boning they tell you to use.  I don't think the pattern companies design the bodices to fit as they ought to.  They look good, but don't provide the support that a good bodice should in the 'untweeked' state (is that an actual word!?)


But welcome again - and happy garbbing!!

[gem]

I agree with isabelladangelo - make a chemise first.

Ok, this is *hilarious,* coming from you!    (Operafan makes jaw-droppingly *stunning* garb--portrait recreations, often--but she's famous for her chemise avoidance.  Um, how many have you done, again?  )

[operafantomet]

I agree with isabelladangelo - make a chemise first.

Ok, this is *hilarious,* coming from you!    (Operafan makes jaw-droppingly *stunning* garb--portrait recreations, often--but she's famous for her chemise avoidance.  Um, how many have you done, again?  )

Hahaha!! Shame on you for mentioning it!  *hark*

OK... so this is the deal.. I hate making chemises. It feels so pointless. So boring. I mean, who cares about chemises? Seriously! I made one in 1998, which I wore out, so I was forced to make a new one this year - 10 years later. Which, judging by the statistic, means that I make 20 dresses per chemise...

BUT: that's exactly why I can say what I say. A good chemise really makes a difference. My Renaissance garbs looks so much better with my new chemise than with the old one. It feels better, it looks better, the whole appearance is improved. So... yes.... start with the chemise. And don't listen to Gem!! 

ETA: just to prove my point...

OLD CHEMISE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/venetian/vennew4.jpg
NEW CHEMISE: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/venetian/vensept4.jpg

True, the pose is different in the latter, and the sleeves are more finished there than in the first picture, but still... I think the look of this dress improved quite a bit with the new chemise. The sleeves are fuller, the neckline more ornamented, the colour purer.

[gem]

Hee-hee... I'm only teasing.

I finally made my own first shift/chemise this year, too.  But I went all out: I used gorgeous handkerchief-weight linen, and I sewed it completely by hand. 

[Cilean]

Well Welcome to the Madness,


I am not one to ask you to pick up the Commercal patterns, I don't feel they will give you the best fit and the look most people want.  So I will give you some basics that is mentione in this thread about Patterns out there.  As others have said your first point of entry is not to pick fabric or even to check out patterns but to find what you want to look like.  Many of us have the thought that 'wench gear' should be our first endeavor but truly you can look chic in the Renaissance with some research and time and effort.  So I would suggest you taking the time to look at the online things, and then look at portraiture online and there are many places here in the forums you can do that as well!.  Also do a search on Elizbethan Dress Dairy, and you will find a load of people who have sites online who make awesome garb!! I will begin with some basic sites that have patterns for free and will help you get some information about what is involved in making garb!

Here is the thread with some of the patterns graded by the people who use them here in the forum:
http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=4320.0


Now when people ask me for good basic patterns I will tell them to try these:

Alteryears
http://alteryears.com/

Drea Lead's Site
This site will be an emense help to you, you can build you Pair of Bodies or Corset and Bodice from her site.
www.elizabethancostume.net

Dawn's Costuming Pages
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/index.html

Tami's Site is invaluable the Renaissance Tailor
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_underwear.htm

Bodice Site
http://www.seamlyne.com/design/costume/bodice/bodice_index.html

These are more advanced and give an even better look but are harder to put together

Reconstructing History
www.reconstructinghistory.com

Margo Anderson's Patterns
www.margospatterns.com

Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies of Tudor Tailor
www.tudortailor.com


Here are some dress diaries, I use as to help me get ideas or worse when I am stuck to get inspiration!

Mode Historique
http://modehistorique.com/

Semptress
www.semptress.org

Trystan's Site
http://www.trystancraft.com/costume/index.html

Jen's Festive Attyre
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/index.html

Ninya's Site is down but the Tudor Tailor one is up
http://www.tudortailor.com/

Tammi's Renaissance Tailor


Bess' site My Lady's Wardrobe
[url]http://www.myladyswardrobe.com/index.htm]

Bess' site My Lady's Wardrobe
http://www.myladyswardrobe.com/index.htm

Lynn McMasters Site
www.Lynnmcmasters.com

Laura's Extreme Costuming Site *This lady rocks hard and is hard core on H/A Period Clothing
www.extremecostuming.com


Okay so now that your eyes are blurry!! Have it and go for it!!

I hope you will make awesome things and show us soon!!

Good Luck,

Cilean