Winter Projects

[Dannicus]

Hi all,

for my winter project (I try to learn something new every winter) I decided, that since I enjoy going to fests in garb, I might try to learn to sew some things. My problem is, that I have no experience in such things and don't want to try to bite off more than I can chew. So I thought I would ask what you did first when you started sewing garb. I know I can't be the only festie who started sewing to custom make their own garb. My eventual goal is to design and put together my own captain's jacket. I've always wanted one.

So...your thoughts?

[operafantomet]

Hi there!

This sounds like a very good winter project. It's awesome to be able to make ones own garbs, and to create stuff that can't be bought in stores. But where to start?

I'm one of those who can't use patterns. I screw up, it never fits me, and I seldom agree with what the pattern want. I GLANCE at patterns to get an idea of how to construct stuff, but I don't use them for the actual cutting. I started my costume-making "career" by remodelling existing garbs. But soon this wasn't enough. So I started using nice-looking fabrics (bed linens, curtains etc) to try out ideas. And soon enough I started buying fabrics for my projects, and I've never looked back...

Still, most will recommend the fairly good commercial patterns available. And I agree. By choosing the right materials (think natural fibres) and adding our own twist, they will often end up looking great.

If you want to dig deeper, it's a good idea to read about the period(s) you're interested in. Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" (MacMillian) books are great resource for both info on period clothes, and patterns. The book "Fashion" by the Kyoto Costume Institute (Taschen) is also wonderful, showing authentic garbs from the 18.th to the 20.th century. Oh, and for male garbs I bet you'll love the book "Modelejon" (Fashion Lion - I think it is/was available in English) by Lena Rangström (Livrustkammaren).

Last, but not least, check out what others have done. Many people write dress diaries / costume blogs, where they tell about how they made stuff and why. Bella's "Showcase" is a great place for various Renaissance garbs ( http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/votingpage2008.htm ), as it feature a new costume maker once or twice a month. But I'm sure there are lots of other pages as well (check out the link page on top of this forum).

Best of luck! And don't be afraid to ask if you have specific question.

[Lady Aldyth]

I would suggest a nice easy shirt or even some slops!

[Randal]

As with most hobbies, invest in good tools, but start out practicing on cheap materials. Trying to hack through material with a pair of cheap scissors is a sure-fire way of souring you on the hobby. Invest in quality tools that will last. You'll pay more up front, but end up saving it in time and frustration.

Pick up a good book on sewing. Reader's Digest, Simplicity, and others all have good books that will explain the basics and define the terms that you'll run across. Don't be afraid to pick these up from the used book store.

If you have, or buy, a sewing machine, read the manual. Keep it handy when using the machine. Practice on scraps of the fabric you'll be sewing before starting in on the project. Different materials sew differently.

For a cheap, quick, and easy project, try wrap pants. Here's a link to a great set of instructions. http://oakdancer.com/parenting/paganpants.htm
Use $1.00 a yard material and you'll be cranking these out for about $3.00 a pair. Some of the great things about these is that you can make them out of just about any material and wear them over sweats or jeans on those cold, wet days when you don't want to wear the expensive garb. This also makes them great loaner garb for someone who wants to get dressed up, but doesn't have much money to spend on garb. Depending on the material, you can go from peasant to gypsy to pirate just by changing accessories.

Once you've gotten comfortable with these, then I suggest moving up to pajama pants with either drawstring or elastic in the waist. After that, Simplicity has a couple of decent patterns for shirts, including the Pirates of the Caribbean "Jack Sparrow" set, which includes shirt, drop-front pants, waistcoat, and frock coat.

Randal

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

For much of the month of December, I will be sewing Christmas presents, some clothes for my Granddaughter, crafty things, and maybe something for me, as awell as Alterations as they come in.

The big project this Winter will be this...http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethpelican.jpg  

I will be building this one from the undergarments out. I have most of what I need. I am still waiting on two rolls of Hooping I ordered from Graand Companies out of New Jersey so I can make the Farthingale.

[UrsulaChandler]

Start out with cheap fabrics in solid colors made of natural fibers.

A lot of stuff looks stiff and too brightly colored on the bolt. You can make a fabric loosen up by abusing it in the washing machine and dryer on hot settings (you should do this anyway to prevent shrinkage in the finished garb). If you find a fabric that can't survive this abuse then you probably shouldn't wear it to faire.

If you can't find a cheap fabric in the color you want remember you can change the color yourself. You can bleach the fabric to fade it or throw it in a pot of Rit dye to make something new.

[isabelladangelo]

Cotton fabrics in "natural" solid colors are the best way to start.  By using cotton, you'll save money ($2 a yard in most places) and natural fibers breathe!  Think "fall" for color choices. 

As for patterns, if you are adventurous, you might want to try this:
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML

shorten it for a men's tunic.

You might also like:
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=8913

The shirt is actually pretty period.  Get it in a light yellow (Safforn) for a more period scottish/irish look.   The rest isn't period, but it works for the renn faire.   

[Lady L]

Greetings Dannicus,
Welcome to sewing!
Others here have given some good advice to you already. 
Pajama type pants and a shirt in natural fibers are good beginner projects. Another one is a tunic without sleeves. Make mock ups from old sheets or cheap muslin, to get the fit right first.

I started sewing when I was 8 years old, my Mom taught me. So, I had been sewing for over 30 years before I started making garb. I tend to use patterns as a base, then alter/adjust them. Many times, I end up making tissue paper patterns of my own.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Starting with something simple and have it look pretty good is a great feeling. Sewing requires the knack to read and follow instructions, even when they can be a bit baffling at times. Sewing garb

Like many here, I too started sewing when I was in Elementary School at 9 by hand first, then 12 with a machine. I never took a sewing class and used a pattern to make a Plaid Cotton A-line skirt that I matched the plaid correctly on my own. Then when in Jr. High and High School, I took more sewing to learn more skills. Like lady L, I have been sewing for 30 years before istarted making serious garb. Even I am still learning techniques never thought possible.

Keep the chin up and good things will happen.

[Pascal]

Another guy sewist!  I'm surprised more men don't -- a sewing machine is just another power tool, it's a gadget/gizmo and you follow patterns/instructions just like you would for woodworking or auto mechanics.

Anyway, for a beginning male sewist (don't like the word "sewer"!), I always suggest you start off with boxer shorts.  Coupla reasons -- you can make them out of cheap cotton fabric, they're pretty simple to cut and construct, plus not a whole lot of people see them (unless you get really lucky) so small imperfections aren't a big deal.  The fit is kind of loose, so you don't have to get into the whole fitting/tailoring thing.  Plus -- you get to wear them when you're done!

In the process, you'll learn how to use (and not use) your sewing machine, how to deal with bobbin issues, how to best cut and interpret patterns, how to finish seams, etc.

Next step up -- basically just make boxer shorts with longer legs -- for pajama pants.  Small changes turn them into breeches suitable for faire.

Next -- try a simple tunic.  You may run into two roadblocks here.  First, if you're dealing with a yoke or a collar, the assembly process can get really confusing.  Just ask questions -- it's not as hard as it might seem.  Second, when you get to joining the sleeves to the garment, you'll find the lengths of the joining pieces won't match -- the perimeter of the sleeve hole won't be the same length as the perimeter of the sleeve top (it'll probably be shorter).  You'll have to learn to "ease" the sleeve in -- basically smushing the top of the sleeve together to make it fit.  Next time you look at your shirts, you'll probably notice the extra fabric at the tops of your sleeves -- it's been eased in.  Just another technique to learn.

From here you might want to move to a mundane, Hawaiian type shirt.  The prints'll be more fun, the fit is still pretty loose and forgiving, but you now get to learn buttonholes.

After this point, you'll probably have the skills you'll need to tackle a jacket.  You'll have to fiddle with linings (not a big deal) and possibly fitting (could be a big deal).

[Randal]

Pascal, I believe that the term you're looking for is "tailor."

Randy

[Aiacha]

Tunics are great to start with.  They're very basic, and it's a good way to learn how to use a pattern.  Remember not to rush through the pinning and cutting.  That's more important than the actual sewing...you can rip a seam, but you can't un-cut fabric.

I would start with the more commercial patterns to get used to working with them.  I prefer Simplicity, because I'm pretty sure the designers of McCalls and Butterrick patterns are on drugs.  There are other, more period correct patterns out there, but they are usually more expensive and more difficult.

Oh, and this was suggested by tigerlily (I think, or was it LadyJessica) about learning how to use the machine.  Take a piece of notebook paper, and without thread in the machine, "sew" the paper down the lines.  You'll become less nervous of the machine, and learn how to sew straight.

[tigerlilly]

Oh, and this was suggested by tigerlily (I think, or was it LadyJessica) about learning how to use the machine.  Take a piece of notebook paper, and without thread in the machine, "sew" the paper down the lines.  You'll become less nervous of the machine, and learn how to sew straight.

Wasn't me!  Darned fine idea, though.  I've also heard of drawing spirals on paper to learn to sew curved seams.

[Athena]

I would start with the more commercial patterns to get used to working with them.  I prefer Simplicity, because I'm pretty sure the designers of McCalls and Butterrick patterns are on drugs.  There are other, more period correct patterns out there, but they are usually more expensive and more difficult.

LOL! I agree!!!!! I started sewing last year, and use commercial patterns. They're a good place to start for a beginner, and like Aicha, I prefer Simplicity. Keep your eye out for pattern sales, they frequently go down to .99 or 1.99 at Jo Ann and Hobby Lobby.

Also, TAKE YOUR TIME. Start off with something simple and basic, go as fast or slow as your comfort level dictates, and when you get more confidence and experience you can take it from there. Don't forget to keep a seam ripper close by. 

[Manwariel]

The first things I made were a tabard, vest, and shirt. I partially followed instructions from this website. It has instructions for a handful of easy Renaissance pieces: http://www.reddawn.net/costume/costume.htm

The site isn't working right now, but hopefully it will be back up soon.